[doors1024]

Hey guys,

I ordered new motor mounts to stop my "shaking" problem,

My mounts came in not too long ago, and I had an appointment set up with the shop but some things came up and it was pushed back to a later date.
I was wondering if this is a hard job to do...maybe I could do it myself.
If anyone who has done this job before and can give me some tips or instructions to replacing motor mounts it would help me out a lot.

I tend to just jump into things if something needs replacing on my other projects, but I thought I'd play it safe with my 968, lol.

Thanks guys,

-Robert G.

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[rxter]

My P mechanic said that you have to remove a lot of stuff to change the mounts. He suggested that while we were in there replacing the oil pan gasket that would be the right time to do it. We did not end up following that path, but it sounded like a fair amount of assemblage to change the mounts.

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[stewhatch]

And while the pans off, you might as well change the rod bearings ....

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[RS Barn]

YES Sir

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[doors1024]

and the rod? and cranks? and pistons? ... and head? lol [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

I have paperwork saying that the oil pan gasket [i]and[i] bearings have been replaced at 90k miles, I'm sure it would not hurt to do again, lol, but I think I'll just focus on the mounts.

How long of a project is this? can it be done in a day ... maybe a 2 day project?

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[Cloud9...68]

The motor mount swap is a very big job, but it is doable. Two days, working at a moderate pace, should easily cover it. One if you really hustle and don't run into any jams. I did mine a couple of years ago, following this procedure:

Parts Required:
Floor Jack
4 Jack Stands
13mm, 19mm open and closed end wrench
10mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm Deep end sockets.
3/8 inch ratchet
3/8 inch torque wrench
3/8 extension
Phillips Screwdriver
Prybar
Lug Wrench for Wheels
Start by jacking car up all around by lifting car at middle jacking point. This will lift the car at both ends on the same side of the car. Install floor jacks under the front mounting point and under the Torque Tube Bracket by the trailing arm. Do this procedure for both sides and jack your car enough to provide yourself enough space to slide under the car to perform this task.

Remove front Wheels
Remove Underbody cover using 10mm socket
Undo sway bar nuts holding it to Control Arm using 17mm socket
Undo 13mm nuts and bolts holding the inner sway bar bushing brackets
Lower brackets by removing 13mm bolts to body and remove sway bar
Remove 19mm nuts and bolts holding the control arm to the crossmember
Remove 17mm bolts holding the Caster Blocks to the body and Control Arms and move Control Arms out of the way.
Loosen 19mm bolts holding crossmember to the body. Do not undo them completely.
Remove nut holding the engine mount to crossmember using 17mm socket
Remove any heat shields covering engine mounts using 10mm socket
Remove bolts holding the engine mounts to motor mounts using stubby 13mm wrench
Place jack with suitable padding/wooden block under oil pan and lift engine slightly.
Pry motormounts off and install new motor mounts.
Lower engine and install 13mm bolts back on between motormounts and engine mounts.
Tighten nut holding motormount.
Installation is reverse.
Tightening torques:
Control Arm to Cross Member: 48lbs/sq inch
Control Arm to Body: 34lbs/sq inch
Cross Member to Body: 63lbs/sq inch
Swaybar to Control Arm: 18lbs/sq inch
Wheels: 96lb-ft

I remember telling myself that if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't worry about trying to disturb the cross member as little as possible; Many people feel an alignment is necessary when you remove the cross member (though there are those who disagree with this). To me, by far the hardest part of the job was lining the engine mount bolts up when putting the engine back in place. I would urge you to do whaever it takes to make this part of the job as agreeable as possible, and I seem to remember thinking that it would have been much easier to completely remove the cross member, and lift the engine as high as possible, as this would give the most room to work to align the bolts. To be honest, I don't remember exactly why I thought that, but I remember being pretty sure about it; it should be clear when you get things taken apart. Good luck!

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[xrad]

nice write-up C-9!

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks, but it was pure plagarism. A guy from the old 968.net actually wrote the procedure.

Out of curiosity, what's your opinion of the need to do a wheel alignment after removing the cross-member? I've heard people argue both ways. I had an alignment done after replacing my mounts, but the guy who did the alignment told me things weren't far off at all, which gave me the impression that there probably isn't a critical need to do one.

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[SILVY968]

<!--quoteo(post=70857:date=Apr 25 2009, 04:28 PM:name=Cloud9...68)-->QUOTE (Cloud9...68 @ Apr 25 2009, 04:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Thanks, but it was pure plagarism. A guy from the old 968.net actually wrote the procedure.

Out of curiosity, what's your opinion of the need to do a wheel alignment after removing the cross-member? I've heard people argue both ways. I had an alignment done after replacing my mounts, but the guy who did the alignment told me things weren't far off at all, which gave me the impression that there probably isn't a critical need to do one.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I am under the impression that the castor block removal would require an alignment, but I do not know for sure. Check with you PM.
Brian

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[flash]

if you managed to remove the cross member with everything attached, then the castor setting might not be affected - however, if you remove the castor blocks from the cross member, then that setting is lost - it takes VERY little movement to throw that off - you will be able to tell easily though because castor is what makes a car go straight when it's correct, and pull if it isn't

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[Cloud9...68]

I must have gotten lucky, then, because I took everything off, and my alignment wasn't far off (if at all), and I don't remember it pulling between the time I replaced the mounts, and got it in for the alignment. But what you're sayng makes sense, so it would make sense to do an alignment after replacing the mounts. I wish I had taken your advice and installed a Lindsey 3-piece cross member when I did my mounts a few years ago, because I'm now planning, as a precaution, to replace my rod bearings, and the job would be SO much easier had I done that, plus I wouldn't have to do an alignment.

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