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Valve cover beautification
#1

Even though I'm converting my car to a mostly-track car, I'd like to go ahead and clean up the valve cover, as mine looks pretty dingy. I'm not normally into this kind of thing, but then I got to thinking, when my car becomes such a track terror that other drivers will want me to prove to them I don't have a turbo V12 under the hood <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> , I want the engine to look presentable, especially under the new D1R cross-brace I have on order.



Here's a picture of my valve cover:



   



I've cleaned it up the best I could with solvent, but as you can see, it has some deep stains. Without going to crazy (i.e. no crinkle black finish, chrome, or any other type of plating), what are some of the things you guys can recommend that I can do, preferably at home, to spiff it up? I don't mind spending some time, because I'm waiting for parts to arrive, but I don't want to spend a lot of money, because after all, it is going to be primarily a track car. I was thinking maybe hitting it with a soft, drill-mounted wire brush, then either painting it, or just clear-coating it. I know Scott Collins recently bead blasted his, and it looks incredible, so that is an option, but if at all possible, I'd like to reserve expenditures to things that actually make the car go faster, so again, I'd like to see if I couldn't do something at home. Thanks in advance.



By the way, the fuel rail cover was painted red by the <acronym title='previous owner'>PO</acronym>, and it looks decent, so I don't need to do anything to it.
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#2

Ace hardware stores sell a silver colored paint for aluminum that can be applied to clean metal with a rag. called " chrome aluminum paint" It is heat resistant and can handle the temps.8fluid ounce size.Part# ACE16444.

   



Brian
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#3

I've used Aluma-Blast spray paint from Eastwood with decent results. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-aluma-blast-set.html Work it over with a good de-greaser first to get the paint to stick...
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#4

Thanks for the responses. Silvy, did you paint your intake manifold with the same stuff? Your engine definitely looks great. And how much "elbow grease" do you have to put into removing all traces of grease before applying the paint? Mine looks like it has some stains that are deeply embedded into the grains of the metal. Do you need to apply a primer first? And why apply it with a rag; why not spray it on? Thanks again.
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#5

I just hit mine with a can of Wurth Silver and Wurth clear coat, came out great. I think I just wiped it all down with lacquer thinner ahead of time and masked off the Variocam area.

I did the intake mani as well so it all matches <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#6

Booster,

Yes, Intake done as well.

Engine degreaser on a warm engine, hose off with water, dry.....very easy.

No primer.

Rag meant that if I could reach it I could paint it and no masking required because no over-spray. The cloth application method got into every pore and touch ups are a breeze as there are no brush strokes.

Brian
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#7

I know this is a different part but dose any one know what paint to use on the rotors. It looks like a primer , the factory paint, it is a dull grey. I want to freshen it up but would like to stay original. Thanks for any help
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#8

Thanks again for the helpful responses. So you guys seem to be advocating paint over a thorough "scrubbing" with some sort of drill-mounted soft wire brush, followed by clear coat. I'd always pooh-poohed the idea of an immaculately clean engine (who's gonna look at it, anyway?), but seeing the beautifully clean engines in you guys' cars makes me realize that keeping the engine as clean as possible makes it much easier to spot things that aren't as they should be, such as leaks or loose or missing parts, so I'm coming around. When I'm done with the valve cover and intake manifold, maybe I'll polish up the alternator like Lear35A did <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />. Yeah, I seem to have crossed over to the dark (or is it the bright?) side.



Hot968 - do you mean your brake rotors? I wouldn't advise painting those, and the pads will wear the paint right off, and I'm thinking the paint may gum up the pads, or do something else equally undesirable <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#9

I think I may have called them the wrong thing. It is the grey painted round thing that the lug nut screws come out of. When u put the tire on it screws to the front of it. You still see the grey painted round metal thing. It is painted at the factory but mine are showing a little rust and the paint is dull. I will look up the part manual and see what the right name of what I mean is.
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#10

Ah, I think you mean the rotor hats. 'fraid I can't advice on paint, though, as I'm kind of a newbie/recent convert when it comes to prettying up things that aren't readily visible <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#11

I degrease in tank, glass bead and then High Temp clear. It has a more natural look and when clear yellows a bit it looks like a early '92 motor which had a really cool patina
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#12

Pete,



Do you think hitting it with a soft drill-mounted brush (maybe even nylon) would have a similar effect as the glass beads? I realize it would take a lot longer, but that's OK. Thanks.
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#13

Glass beads are very fine (media) and leave a very soft even surface. You can have this done at most machine shops and isn't expensive. The trick is to wash in soapy water and rinse, then let dry. Don't touch with fingers before spraying.

Looks cool
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#14

If you paint it try to keep the build-up to a minimum. This weekend I saw a 928 GTS with a powder coated intake and valve covers, and the finish developed some really ugly bubbling, either corrosion or outgasing from the pores in the aluminum. Below is a photo of my injection rail cover which I sanded down for the "brushed" look, flat surfaces finish well this way, but curved surfaces are tough (labor intensive). Whatever you do have fun with it, if you're not satisfied you can always bead blast it and try something different. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#15

A little OT but the hats were zinc plated I believe. I wire brushed them and Wurth'ed 'em. Been good for 2 years now, nice and clean.
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#16

After some winter snow melt chemical got on my hats, the zinc started to wear down and a slight amount of rush started up. I used the same paint as on the engine. Jack up car, remove tire, get a 1" brush, dip, rotate wheel and stroke. looked great when it dried. Any little bit that gets on the clamping surface can be wipes off; it is gone due to pad friction after your next ride anyway!

Brian
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#17

[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1953]

Since my coupe is all black, painted the valve cover with red crinkle paint, and the vanity cover aluminum spray paint. Did it as part of a tune up and made the engine bay look a lot better without much effort. The red crinkle paint looks as good today as when I did the work, about a year ago. Attached pic was taken today. Lets see that on a Cayman or Boxter!
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#18

Anthony,



That's an interesting alternative; looks nice. But since my fuel rail cover is already red, I don't think that would work for me.



Pete,



Did you also bead blast and clear coat the intake manifold?
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#19

   



   





Here are some pics of my valve cover refinished by RS Barn. Just bolted it on a few days ago.



-Scott
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#20

This is a great motivation thread. Awesome valve covers.



Who knew there was so much variety to be seen in this small community <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> .
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