[flash]

The screws that connect the Radiator Heat Shield to the Radiator are not to be installed without both the lock washer and flat washer, and should be checked for length and clearance prior to installation. If your radiator upper flange is bent you may have an interference that could cause the screw to poke a hole in one of the capillary tubes. If you do, it cannot be repaired, and it will cost you a new radiator.



Do not substitute longer screws when you feel you cannot install the Heat Shield. Connect the front edge FIRST. Then work on the back, moving the Shield back and down into position.



The Radiator Hold Down Brackets must be installed first before any of this, and the adjusters cranked down to hold the Radiator in place. Do NOT adjust these down though if you are missing the rubber foot and its washer at the bottom of it, as that can easily crack your radiator tank. Failure to adjust them down may lead to interferences that will prevent installation of the Heat Shield. If you are missing the rubber feet, STOP and order them (part number 951.106.053.00).

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[gbarrier]

It's been a while but I remember those screws being just long enough to get full size thread contact yet any longer would have, like you say, punctured the radiator. I ended up using longer screws of the same diameter and grinding the ends to length giving full size threads closer to the end.

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[Sho968]

I'm glad you are talking about this.

I have just finished SC kit installation, and found the provided #12 sheet metal screw to be a bit small on diameter

(comes out under residual tension but thread pitch is right on), compared to factory 6.3mm dia. x (12mm long) screws

that are now too short to include heat shield in the stack.



I have looked up and orderd bothof these OEM Screws:

900.187.015.02 Tapping Screw 6.3 x 16mm Qty=3

N.090.172.1 Combination Screw 6.3 x 19mm Qty=3 <= I ended up using these without clearance issue with radiator core.



I also took the following two extra steps:

1) bent the heat shield a little more to relieve the residual tenssion between heat shied & radiator (this will also result in better alignment

of holes ... I had a feeling the sheet metal was not bent to the design intension)

2) I taped in a flat washer in the plastic fan shroud's recess (3PL, where they used to accept clip nuts on radiator), to avoid bending shroud flan

flange undertightened screw.



But all in all, it was a superbly designed/built kit!! Now I'm breaking in the Rotorex unit (65mi). Mine is stage 3.



Thanks, Flash!

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[tamathumper]

If you had to bend the radiator shield, your radiator might be a bit too high. I believe mine is higher than anyone else's and I also had to work on getting the radiator shield to line up, as it seemed at the time to not be bent to the proper angle. During installation it's easy to assume it's a bending error because "it's just a piece of sheet metal", but in reality it should line up pretty good if everything else is in place.



Take a photo of your upper radiator mounting screws (the ones with the rubber feet) and post/compare to the photos the rest of us took. That's a good way to tell where your radiator is positioned.

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[Sho968]

Here's a picture of my upper radiator holding screws.



They look long (=radiator high), but probably because I was very afraid to overtighten it & crack the radiator.

My radiator is sitting on the bottom tray, with the two rubber bumpers fully engaged in the tray holes.





Tama, I read that you had varuous clearance issues, but I don't think mines were nearly as severe.

Increasing the bend that mates with fwd/upr edge of the radiator ever so slightly fixed all fitment issues.

I still have K&N touching te hood frame at location with yellow circle, but I'll resolve it in the next week or so.

No manufactured product is free of tolerance issues (ask me how I know...), so I take this as part of my installation work.



I'd like to express my dratitude to Bob for designing/fabricating/distributing this fabulous kit.

Simply put, my 968 feels like a 928 engine shoved in, without the associated weight/mpg/cost penalties.

Now I hardly have to downs*** ... The only thing I miss, is my chance to floor the throttle, which is much more scarse now ! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/whine.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Now I really need a boost gage, as I'm used to driving other forced-induction cars (Audis) while watching boost.

Sorry, it's just engineer in me ...

Has this (boost gage) been discussed in this forum so far?

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[flash]

i wish i could see the pic. not sure why i can't



the filter should be nowhere near the hood frame. again, i wish i could see the pic.

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[Sho968]

Bob,



I sent the same picture (above) to you.

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[flash]

thanks - could just be the laptop. i'm on a secondary system while i finish moving my office.



i responded to your email

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