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Supercharger instal

Seems so smooth and civilized, but fast to get to the mark. I want one!!!
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92 968 cab (cobalt blue/black top/grey int)

87 944S

19 Audi A6 3.0T

03 Toyota Tundra

 
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A short update on how my project is going on:

First of all: Shame on me!
All the runs I did p to now with the small pulley were at only 0.4Bar @ 5000rpm tappering down to only 0.3Bar @ redline due to BELTSLIP. And I must say, it took far to long for me to realice. Today I tried some hours to get up the boost: Bigger airfilter, unoiled... no effect at all, disconnected the blow-off... no effect etc. In the end I just tentioned the belt more and used some "Riemenharz" / belt glue or so in English and I got now to 0.55Bar @ redline. Unfortunatelly I was not able to tune the car properly to the GTech runs (due to some limitation I couldnt re-program myself). But with the very quick help of John from Vitesse-Racing I did fix that also right now.
I sure know now why I couldnt take right any GTech datas; due to the beltslip the GTech saw a rpm singal that was going down while I was accelerating at WOT. So now that this is fixed I can show you a first propper GTech run @ 0.55Bar of boost. As I said, the run was performed with the fueling leaning out from 5000rpm up to almost stoechiometric @ redline. So tomorrow I will perform some runs with the new program that will bring me to some 12.0 - 12.5 AFR... I think there are some ponies to be found...

The curve below showes the stocker vs the SC at 0.55Bar, some 12.5 AFR @ 4500rpm, tappering to some 14.3 AFR @ redline. Also you see the passing times befor and after.

Tomorrow more infos with a propper fueling!

Kunz
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Hi Kunz,

Really impressed by the work you did and the performance gained. Don't know if you already stated this somewhere, but is this an engine with stock compression or is it somehow lowered?

Jaap
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Hi Jaap!

My engine is "stock". Well the car has been prepared for races in Zuffenhausen back in the 90's befor it was im my hands. They made some fine-tuning on the components there for about 12'000USD, I have seen the bill, but unfortunatelly didnt get it when I got the car. Anyway the car had the steel racing flywheel in for example. I cant tell much about the internals... At least I am sure the compression is stock as a minimum.

As for the gains I was able to make:
at the end of the last week I set the fuel pressure to 4.2Bar at idle and 5.2Bar at full boost at redline and the gains were serious as shown in the graph below. Unfortunatelly I was not able to get a stable idle at this pressure, so I had to go back a bit. I now am waiting for a Fuel pressure regulator with a rising rate of 1.7:1, which means starting at a normal and tunable 3.5 - 3.7 Bar at idle I will end up at 5.2 - 5.4 Bar at full boost which is enough with my injectors (48lbs / h). If this still wont work I will go to a FMU like Carl did in his conversion... even more aggressive. I am aware I will probably have to install a second fuel pump so the load - and therefor the fuel heating - wont be to high.
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...well here another info:
I am really getting to a limit now as the stock MAF sends some 5.4V to the ECU at WOT and redline which caps the signal of by about 5.5V; this leads to leaning out dramaticly! So this a the reason I am not able to tune the car over increasing the MAF-signal now but have to increase fuel pressure so I do not need to correct the MAF singal upwards... The other possibilety would be to take even larger injectors
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<!--quoteo(post=72664:date=May 27 2009, 01:30 PM:name=Kunz)-->QUOTE (Kunz @ May 27 2009, 01:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Here I got some new video for you all to see if you are interested:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tt0qZEWY2s
It showes the speedometer when accelerating at WOT with the setup I have right now. As you see I do not like rude starts and shifting, there is to little traction anyway. It was a pretty hot day so the car might be a bit faster early in the morning, still I like it very much, seems a bit faster than stock to me... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]
What are your impressions?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Aw, come on.. we all know you took that video with the car in the garage and the rear end lifted so the wheels were spinning freely - damn fast acceleration that way ! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

But serioulsy , looks very impressive. Nicely done.
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For those of you who are interested here a WOT run with my actual setup. You can see:
- 0-200+ km/h
- 0-120+ mls/h
- hp vs time for the run
- rpm for the run
- Gs for the run

I am pleased by the results even though I have to say I am a miserable starter and a very boring shifter looking at the starting revs (3500rpm only) and the time acceleration is interrupted during up-shifts... but on the othe hand it let's me imagine how fast the car would be with an ambitioned driver behind the wheel. Still a good sunday! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]

Sorry for using so much space; i dont know why it is all in widescreen-mode... anyway, if you want to see all, be sure to scroll to the right.
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Hi there

I have some little news here.
As I realiced the car really performs great at lower temperatures (10- 12°C) and looses - like every boosted car - some power at higher ambient temperatures (27-30°C) I decided to get more intercooling and combusting chamber cooling. I had this Aquamist 1s system left from old times and so instaled this water injection system...
I instaled a 12 liter tank with primer pump behind the seats and the Aquamist unit in the engine bay. The system ist very simple and triggered by boost resp an adjustable pressure switch which then activates main- and primerpump at about 3500rpm / 4psi. I inject the water right after the IC to get good intercooling effect on the way to trottlebody and engine. I use a 0.6mm nozzle right now which gives some 230ml of water per minute.
Like this the performance of the car is much more stable at higher temps. On the GTech it is some 10- 12 hp more @ 27° which is about 15- 18hp in reality....

I will try to go to a bigger nozzle for about 275ml / min and will also take some pics of the system for you to see.

Kunz
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Are you running plain water or water/methanol?
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1995 Riviera blue 968CS with LSD, custom LEDA coilovers with t-bar delete, S4 brakes, RS Barn braided lines, Tarett sways, Racers Edge bushings everywhere, Rack Tack, Design 1 braces and short shift kit, air box mod, RS Barn stage 1 chip, RS Barn cat back, RUF BTR2 wheels with Toyo R888, Deutsch Nine TRS version 2 rear wing (carbon fiber), AIR repop splitter (carbon fiber), brake cooling intakes (carbon fiber), Sparco seats and belts, OMP steering wheel and a lot of other little things that I can't recall at the moment...
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Hi Firefish

Up to now I only use water but sure will also try water / methanol up to 50%. From the experiances I made with another turbocharged car this didnt change much. Anyway, water has the biggest capacety to absorb heat energy. So over-all cooling will be best with water only. But as the intercooling effect in some applications seems to be more important there could be a little advantage for a h2o / meth mix, due to the lower boiling point of meth. In my own application this could be the case...

What I am also thinking about is an IC water spray like for example my EVO has. As the primer pump is flowing much more than the 300ml/ min max the WI pump needs, I could easily support 2 jets for that...
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Just awesome!!
What every 968 should be.
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If I had the money, this would be upgrade I would most likely do. Of course, turbocharging is one thing aswell, but would require updating engine internals aswell. Too bad in Finland it's very unlikely to get SC-system registered legally in road use. well, could try it some day..
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.matti



____________

Porsche 968, 1992, 6-speed, Corallic-Red.



Mods.

Engine + Drivetrain: RS Barn Flywheel; RSBarn Chip1

Chassis: Rear Seat Delete; Fiberglass hood; Lexan rear hatch; Odyssey 680 racing battery + kill switch

Suspension & Brakes: 996 Turbo Mk1 front calibers + 330x34mm cross drilled discs front; 968 CS Cross drilled discs rear; Ferodo DS2500 brake pads; Speedline Corse Magnesium Wheels (18''); Shark Motorsport strut brace.



Coming up:

Adjustable Camber plates. m030 Sways + coilovers probably next summer... *sigh*

maybe slotted 2-piece front brake discs, If I find a good deal. Smile
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<!--quoteo(post=77549:date=Aug 13 2009, 02:13 AM:name=Kunz)-->QUOTE (Kunz @ Aug 13 2009, 02:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Hi Firefish

Up to now I only use water but sure will also try water / methanol up to 50%. From the experiances I made with another turbocharged car this didnt change much. Anyway, water has the biggest capacety to absorb heat energy. So over-all cooling will be best with water only. But as the intercooling effect in some applications seems to be more important there could be a little advantage for a h2o / meth mix, due to the lower boiling point of meth. In my own application this could be the case...

What I am also thinking about is an IC water spray like for example my EVO has. As the primer pump is flowing much more than the 300ml/ min max the WI pump needs, I could easily support 2 jets for that...<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


I dont think the aquamist wil help too much with this application considering the low boost levels. I think you need to maybe look into the larger injectors though as it wil extend the range on your MAF sensor as you suggested! Got anymore vidoes of the road sicne oyu have more boost now?


Tim



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Would love to see some video of the latest tune.
No granny shifting!!!
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Tim:

Thanks for the advice!
I actually feel the car is running rich enough for this application, but realiced the piping form and esp to the IC is getting pretty warm on a hot day. Also I made numberous runs with the GTech under different circumstances, esp cool and hot ambient temps. I also realiced increasing fuel pressure to about 4.2Bar at idle and about 5.2 - 5.4Bar at WOT / full boost even gave me some more power which speaks for the benefit of more in-cylinder-cooling. Still at that pressure the car was - with my technicaly limited possibilities of tuning - almost untunable at idle (would just go of and could only be stared again after lowering the fuel pressure again to normal...). Also a fuel pressure of 5.4Bar is a bit high for the stock pump to support (fuel becoming very hot, pump-failier etc). So there were some things that could be done:
- Get larger injectors (which would still lead to the problems I have at idle)
- Get a FMU
- Get a standalone or direct access on the ECU
- Instal a WI

Installing a WI seems a good way to me because I do not have to increase fuel pressure which would lead to a maybe too-rich fueling with a smoking car at WOT (it is already at the limit now) and a gas-guzzler, because i do nat have to reprogram everything, because I had one in stock and because it adds some real intercooling- and in-cylinder-cooling-capaceties...

I installed the nozzle for more water today and will see how it workes...


Videos you want to see? I will see what I can do... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]
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way too many people just throw fuel at it to cool it - quick fix but not the right fix - if you do it right, supercharged mixes do not need to be all that much richer than normal mixes - they really only need to have enough to accommodate transition - we used to use water injection all the time on cars where intake heat or flow anomolies were causing us problems - it allowed the mix to be almost normal, which made for much better idling

rather than pushing fuel pressure up across the board, i'd think about a rising rate regulator - they are about $180 - this would lean it back down at idle and fatten it up on boost

as for injectors, that's going to depend on how much power you want - i don't know which ones you're running now, but as an example, the factory ones run out pretty early somewhere short of 300hp - you can throw more fuel at them and get more, but then you are likely going to wear them out very early - pick your poison
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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Flash:

Instead of the factory 32lbs/h-ones I use 48lbs/h. This is OK for the 0.55-0.6Bar I boost I think.
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Here some runs...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pF9m8kaSzEI

Shifting at 6700-6800rpm
0-100 5.0s today (hot), on a cooler day some 4.9s
1st gear: ab. 68km/h
2nd ab. 108km/h
3rd ab. 150km/h
...

If you give any comment remember: You wanted me to do it! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]
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Glorious... I love your kid's giggles....[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
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89 944 S2 - Promax Chip - sold 

92 968 Cab - Airbox Mod, RS stage I chip.

18 Jaguar V6 P380

 
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OK!

For those of you who are interested, here is a video of my 968's speedo going 0-210km/h. I am sorry, but my mechanicel sympathy stops my from doing any other thing than a granny-start and shifting. I am sure, there could some parts of a second be found there...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uNEpsRcPz4
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