[az968]

Sure looks like #3 isn't getting any fuel, and # 2 isn't doing much better.  #4 generally runs hotter that 1-3 anyway. Yeah, try swapping injectors between 2/3 and 1/4.

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[banditsc]

Have you checked for spark yet?

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[MLB]

Yeah, gotta verify spark next. Will find a vac gauge.

Might be able to borrow a durametric today

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[MLB]

Spark verified at all 4 using a borrowed inductive tester. So this appears to be a fuel problem at some level.

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[flash]

very weird.  the fuel rail does not isolate fuel by injector.  it would be incredibly rare for a new injector to fail, let alone 2.  i suspect you have a wiring problem.  the durametric would show this, as should a blink test

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[banditsc]

Also try testing the plug itself, just rest it on the metal and crank it over, I've seen plugs up and die for some strange reason, usually after being fouled out.

 

Can't recall if the fuel harness allows for swapping the wires, guessing not. You can get a noid light to test the injector is firing, can probably even borrow one from the parts store. 

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[MLB]

My indie mechanic dug out a noid light but it was the wrong connector. But he also let me borrow his inductive tester.

I will be closely examining the wiring plugs next.

But I got the blink test to work, maybe need to depress the accelerator pedal before turning on the key, then turn on the ignition and keep the pedal pressed for several seconds...Anyway my fault code was 1-1-1-7 (oil temp sensor?). Doesnt sound like it has anything to do with the current fault condition.

 

Back to the garage...

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[MLB]

OK, I borrowed the noid light test kit from O'Reillys (gotta love 'em!) and the Bosch and GM lights fit into the connectors so I can test plugs for injectors 2 and 3 at the same time. 

Survey says: #2 flashes, #3 dead.

 

But one of the wires for connecter to #2 has a crack in the insulation which I will fix with some heat shrink. Its tricky to get the boots off (because they are old rubber they tore but I have one spare from a repair kit my indie mechanic gave me, will have to order a second one), and the metal inserts out of the plastic plug connectors but it can be done. My originals have double-barbs on the metal inserts, so gotta finagle both loose together using tiny flat blade screwdrivers. By the way, the yellow wire with blue stripe came out of the side of the connector marked with a "1" and the brown wire from "2" as labeled on the plastic plug.

 

Still have to find where the wiring has failed for #3

Back to the garage...(this is getting painfully annoying)

 

Double barbs on plastic plug housing inserts:

 

   

 

insulation failure on injector plug #2 wire:

 

   

 

Double noid lights:

 

   

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[az968]

Sounds like you are now very close to finding and fixing the problems! Very good sluthing!


Note to self: check all the exposed wiring in my engine compartment........

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[MLB]

By the way, I just ordered four more of the repair kits from ECS tuning, Bosch part number 1 287 013 003

About 10 bucks per repair kit depending on where you order, they were 12.95 each from ECS tuning but at least a reliable supplier.

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[MLB]

Thanks AZ.

Maybe I mentioned it, but... for the love of Pete I just want to flippin' get on down the road!!!??? and fast!

This is so annoying!!!

Ok I feel better now...well, not really

but thanks for tolerating my rant.

:0)

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[MLB]

But I will also say that I consider myself lucky because this did not fail while I was on the road. In this respect my car repair experiences have been "blessed". Big deal-breaker failures almost always occur for me either in the driveway or within a mile or two of home.

 

The wife and I will be driving the car to Vermont in a few weeks for Porsche Parade, and to visit old friends, so once I get this sorted its one less thing that can spoil our trip. :0)

 

How's that for a don't-worry-be-happy attitude!?

 

--Michael

 

OK, back to the garage...AH-gain...

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[MLB]

OK, I'm depressed again. I have peeled back injector plug #3 wiring as far as the tight bend where it exits the main loom and I see no obvious problems, nor feel any breaks in the wires. So I'm stuck again...dang it!!!

 

Time to replace the broken front stabilizer bar on the buick daily driver...

it never ends

forgot to attach this image

   

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[banditsc]

Concentrate on where your bent the harness, has to be related to the recent move of the harness. Also assuming you swapped noid lights around to make sure you don't have a bad one? The Durametric can do some the testing and give you any stored codes, so that may save you some time if you can get your hands on one. If you saw spark from the spark plugs then it has to be related to the fuel. The #2 should still be firing since you have fuel there and your spark order is resolved.

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[MLB]

I'm looking at the wiring diagrams now, but I'm not good at interpreting them. Wondering if anyone has been here before and if there's another place in the circuit like at the ECU where I can test function of cylinder number three wiring further up the chain so to speak than right at the fuel injector?

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[az968]

Ill look at the wiring diagrams tonight and see if I can find where you can access the other end of the wire to test for a break. It might not be that, but as bandit suggest, it's most likely where there is a bend in the wires. Any chance rhe injector wire got pinched somewhee? We're pulling for you, hang in there!

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[MLB]

Thanks again az,

I wouldn't mind cutting open the wiring loom and hunting it down but I don't know what I can seal it back up with that matches the factory appearance and durability?

Any suggestions on that?

Obviously electricians tape is out of the question, and you have to have a free wire end to slide heat shrink over it.

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[az968]

So if you look at wiring sheet 5 it shows the injectors have a common connecting block (103). I don't see where that is located but it looks like a wire from all the injectors hit that as a common, that would be one place to test. The other wire goes directly to the ECU so you could pick it up there. Doesn't seem to be any other access point for testing. It looks like pin 35 on the DME is for cylinder 3.(pg 2-9 of Service info technik shows the pin layout)


See if that works.

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[az968]

So I figured out why there were two sets of of numbers on the sequence. One is the plug firing order, the other is the injector order, it precedes the firing order by one. That makes sense.

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[banditsc]

Thanks again az,

I wouldn't mind cutting open the wiring loom and hunting it down but I don't know what I can seal it back up with that matches the factory appearance and durability?

Any suggestions on that?

Obviously electricians tape is out of the question, and you have to have a free wire end to slide heat shrink over it.

 

Self fusing silicone tape. Very good for stuff like that, it looks like electrical tape in the roll, but you can make it look factory. You stretch while applying it and when you overlap the tape they fuse together.

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