[ron1688]

Hey everyone,



Im installing new koni inserts and springs on the cab. Does anyone in the bay area, sacramento area have the special socket to remove the struts. I cant find mine and its probably lost forever in my many moves over the last year or two.



Thanks guys.

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[flash]

not sure i get what you are getting at - it doesn't take a special socket - an impact gun and deep socket is all you need to get that big nut off the top - you will need at least one spring compressor though if your springs are OEM

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[ron1688]

[quote name='flash' post='37422' date='Jun 25 2007, 12:27 PM']not sure i get what you are getting at - it doesn't take a special socket - an impact gun and deep socket is all you need to get that big nut off the top - you will need at least one spring compressor though if your springs are OEM[/quote]



Hey Bob,



Dont have an impact gun, so I have to do it the old fashion way. I found a ox sensor socket that might work. I needed the socket that has a cut in the middle so that way I can stick an allen wrench on top of the strut to prevent the strut from turning.

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[flash]

you really need an impact gun - on removal, you will be ok, since the old struts are going in the trash, but DO NOT use a regular socket wrench on installation - the problem is that the shaft of the strut turns - this is bad on the seals, especially on gas struts like konis - there is no allen hole on the koni, so you are going to be stuck unless you have an impact gun

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[ron1688]

[quote name='flash' post='37436' date='Jun 25 2007, 03:43 PM']you really need an impact gun - on removal, you will be ok, since the old struts are going in the trash, but DO NOT use a regular socket wrench on installation - the problem is that the shaft of the strut turns - this is bad on the seals, especially on gas struts like konis - there is no allen hole on the koni, so you are going to be stuck unless you have an impact gun[/quote]





Damn, I just noticed that. I'm gonna have to go a buddy's house and assemble the struts there. Anyhow, the struts are off and Im in the process of doing the insert mods. I will have to go a buddy's house for the assembly I guess. I went with the hyperco springs. I talked to Paragon and they said they are about 195 to 200 lbs. Not progressive but claim to be identical to the H&R.

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[bob blackwell]

Ron, my H&R progressive rate lowering springs are 190 - 230 pounds. So the Hyperco springs you got will be softer for sure. That is fine if you drive on the street most of the time. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[flash]

it's the installation of the strut into the car that requires the impact gun - if you just turn the big nut, the shaft will turn - that's bad



you should own one anyway - they make electric ones as well as air if you don't have a compressor - go have fun and do some tool shopping



i think you can rent one too - kragen and home depot both rent tools

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[Ryan]

An impact wrench is going to turn the shaft a lot. The only way not to turn the shaft is use the right tool. I have done it both ways however and there was no effect that I know of.



I have a custom made tool if you need it or you can take the struts by a shop and have them tighten it for you before you put the assembly back in the car.



On the Koni instructions it shows a NO use of air tool on the diagram as I recall.

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[ron1688]

[quote name='Ryan' post='37532' date='Jun 27 2007, 11:26 AM']An impact wrench is going to turn the shaft a lot. The only way not to turn the shaft is use the right tool. I have done it both ways however and there was no effect that I know of.



I have a custom made tool if you need it or you can take the struts by a shop and have them tighten it for you before you put the assembly back in the car.



On the Koni instructions it shows a NO use of air tool on the diagram as I recall.[/quote]



The instructions does show not to use an impact gun. I ended up doing it the old fashion way. I used a ox sensor socket and a box wrench. It took forever but I got the job done. Its at the shop now getting the alignment done. On to the next mod, I am installing a nav system on the car. I went with the Pioneer Avic-D3. It should be here next Tues.

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[Anchorman]

IIRC, that Pioneer unit requires a double-size opening. How are you going to manage that?

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[flash]

i have never had a strut turn on the impact gun - they say that because most people turn the gun on full, and it would spin the shaft - i set it on low and just use it to turn the nut down - i also lube the threads



the D3 should fit if you lose the cubby and clock, but it will be VERY close at the bottom rear edge because of the slant - i almost got the D3 for the E46, but i didn't like that you could not play a CD and use the nav at the same time - went with the Z2 instead

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[ron1688]

[quote name='flash' post='37540' date='Jun 27 2007, 12:40 PM']i have never had a strut turn on the impact gun - they say that because most people turn the gun on full, and it would spin the shaft - i set it on low and just use it to turn the nut down - i also lube the threads



the D3 should fit if you lose the cubby and clock, but it will be VERY close at the bottom rear edge because of the slant - i almost got the D3 for the E46, but i didn't like that you could not play a CD and use the nav at the same time - went with the Z2 instead[/quote]



That was also a consideration with just one slot for the dvd and cd, however, the Ipod interface is the best I have ever seen. I have the D1 on my NSX now and I am very happy with the functuality and the D3 from what I have seen just improves on the previous models. Plus all of my music is now on my Ipod these days. It did take me a long time to decide whether I wanna lose the cubby hole and clock before I made the purchase.

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[Anchorman]

Isn't it more complicated than simply deciding whether or not to lose the cubby and clock? There's metal separating those compartments. I guess you'll be putting the Dremel to use?

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[flash]

i have the D1 in the Denali - i like it, but there are some shortcomings (no phone interface being a big one) - i like the double disk slot though, as i will not use an ipod in the car - i'm trying to get rid of all the loose gadgets - i will make MP3 disks though for long trips, but really prefer the quality of a CD to the inferior MP3 format for short trips (i still long for tape though)



with the D3, the fact that you have to purchase the additional interface for the phone bugged me too - the Z2 has it built in



the Z2 has a 30 gig hard drive, 20 of which is for the nav, and 10 of which is for music storage, so one disk slot is fine - the drive is faster than the DVD too for the nav



jim - i seem to remember that metal barrier being removeable - i'd have to look to see for sure

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[Jason@Paragon Products]

There is a "flat" machined on the shaft of the Koni right below the adjustment tab. It allows you to keep the shaft from turning when using the proper tool.

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[ron1688]

[quote name='Anchorman' post='37547' date='Jun 27 2007, 01:55 PM']Isn't it more complicated than simply deciding whether or not to lose the cubby and clock? There's metal separating those compartments. I guess you'll be putting the Dremel to use?[/quote]





The metal barrier you are talking about is used to support the radio/cd player and can be removed without any cutting. The only drawback I see in installing a double din is losing the cubby and clock. Of course as Bob said, the unit will sit lower than I want to.

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