[xrad]

I have seen several out there. Anyone have any preferences? I have seen some of the aluminum plates but I am not sure of the strength.....

some change ride height..... some look better made....

Opinions?

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[flash]

this was an odd one for me - i tried them - my conclusion is that i see no real reason to run any of these - with a proper setup, additional camber adjustment is not needed - in fact, now that i have the huge sway bars and all the braces, i am reducing negative camber at all 4 corners

keep in mind that my situation is a bit different - having changed out every lower suspension bushing to spherical bearings, when i installed the kla plates (shown in the top pic) it resulted in severe jarring that made the dash make a racket - it was incredibly uncomfortable to drive - yes, it was more positive feeling, but at the extreme compromise of any ride quality - i reinstalled the factory units - there had to be some rubber somewhere

if you are going to leave the control arm bushings rubber, then plates would possibly be fine - i haven't driven a car with plates and rubber bushings, but pete can probably tell you how it is

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[xrad]

I am looking to replace the stock rubber with plates because stock rubber mounts are ~450$ each.

Mine are originals and seem to be a little stretched...

Racers edge supposed to keep stock ride height.

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[flash]

i understand - the kla don't alter ride height either, and at less than half the cost - ring up pete - he carries both, and can talk to you about what would be right for you

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[PorscheDude]

I may have access to a few pairs of dynatech strut mounts, but they are not cheap.
I think he wants $750 a set new in the box.

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[xrad]

Thanks Smokey and Flash.

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[PorscheDude]

I just picked up set of M030 struts with good mounts I don't need.

Got them and some cash for my K58's.

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[firefish]

<!--quoteo(post=75023:date=Jul 6 2009, 11:01 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 6 2009, 11:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->this was an odd one for me - i tried them - <b>my conclusion is that i see no real reason to run any of these</b> - with a proper setup, additional camber adjustment is not needed - in fact, now that i have the huge sway bars and all the braces, i am reducing negative camber at all 4 corners<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Are you referring to street or track use?
On the track with R tires and an otherwise stiff setup I would suspect some serious movement in the top mount if retaining the stock rubber mounts, especially when old and worn, and probably even more when running solid mounts elsewhere. No sense in spending time and money setting the car up when the settings will be all over the place anyway when under load.

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[flash]

i was referring to adjustable feature of the mounts - with what i have in the car, i see no reason to add negative camber beyond what can already be done at the strut

fixed spherical bearing mounts will definitely provide a more accurate setting on a race car, though in mine, due to the fact that i had removed the rubber everywhere else, they also provided an ugly ride

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[firefish]

<!--quoteo(post=76695:date=Aug 3 2009, 04:47 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 3 2009, 04:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->i was referring to adjustable feature of the mounts - with what i have in the car, i see no reason to add negative camber beyond what can already be done at the strut

fixed spherical bearing mounts will definitely provide a more accurate setting on a race car, though in mine, due to the fact that i had removed the rubber everywhere else, they also provided an ugly ride<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I see. I am of the same opinion regarding increased camber but I do like the ease of changing camber with an adjustable mount. For me, the stiffness is what I want - I like it real ugly [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[flash]

just realize that, contrary to common misconception, you can't "go back and forth" from street to track settings, just because you have those plates - the home alignment gadgets are not accurate enough, unless you go to the expense of swivel plates and add long beams to the gadgets to increase the measurement accuracy - in fact, when you have spherical bearings in place of rubber, it makes it even harder to get a good alignment - the need for accuracy increases with the elimination of the play of the rubber - with rubber bushings, 1/4 degree tolerance is typically acceptable - now that i have almost completely eliminated the rubber, i am finding that 1/4 degree adjustments are making a very large difference, and need to keep it closer to 1/10 degree, which the do it yourself gadgets are not capable of doing

if you are going to run adjustable plates, pick your settings on an alignment rack, and then lock them down and leave them there

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[firefish]

<!--quoteo(post=76727:date=Aug 3 2009, 08:58 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 3 2009, 08:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->just realize that, contrary to common misconception, you can't "go back and forth" from street to track settings, just because you have those plates - the home alignment gadgets are not accurate enough, unless you go to the expense of swivel plates and add long beams to the gadgets to increase the measurement accuracy - in fact, when you have spherical bearings in place of rubber, it makes it even harder to get a good alignment - the need for accuracy increases with the elimination of the play of the rubber - with rubber bushings, 1/4 degree tolerance is typically acceptable - now that i have almost completely eliminated the rubber, i am finding that 1/4 degree adjustments are making a very large difference, and need to keep it closer to 1/10 degree, which the do it yourself gadgets are not capable of doing

if you are going to run adjustable plates, pick your settings on an alignment rack, and then lock them down and leave them there<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

What you are saying is true meaning that you can't play with the adjuster back and forth without taking the apropriate measures. In my case my friend who runs a shop a 5 min drive from my house has one of them fancy laser alignment things (only prob is to get my car up on the lift) and a four wheel alignment is done in a blast and I have two different settings, one track and one street (or I should say two inherited settings from the po) that I can change between.

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[flash]

you're very fortunate - an alignment rack is definitely the way to go - i wish i had one closer that had a tech willing to let me play with it

i see so many guys thinking they can do it with those little clip on gadgets, and not realize that they are not getting the alignment they think they are, and also not realize how seriously it affects how well the car behaves - many of them don't even realize that one of the key factors is starting on a perfectly flat and level surface - they do it in the parking lot or at the paddock, which is NEVER flat - they also don't realize that once you change camber, you also have to make toe adjustments to compensate, and often caster too

a good alignment is often a time consuming process, but worth its weight in gold - a bad one can cost you a lot of speed in turns

i am contemplating buying a setup that i can use here - i have been pricing it out, and i think i can get it done for about $2k

fortunately, now that i have the setup that i do, i can keep the same settings for both street and track, as i have been able to reduce the negative camber to an "acceptable" amount - i still need to reduce some more negative camber out of the rear, but i'm getting close

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[firefish]

<!--quoteo(post=76735:date=Aug 3 2009, 09:41 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 3 2009, 09:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->you're very fortunate - an alignment rack is definitely the way to go - i wish i had one closer that had a tech willing to let me play with it

i see so many guys thinking they can do it with those little clip on gadgets, and not realize that they are not getting the alignment they think they are, and also not realize how seriously it affects how well the car behaves - many of them don't even realize that one of the key factors is starting on a perfectly flat and level surface - they do it in the parking lot or at the paddock, which is NEVER flat - they also don't realize that once you change camber, you also have to make toe adjustments to compensate, and often caster too

a good alignment is often a time consuming process, but worth its weight in gold - a bad one can cost you a lot of speed in turns

i am contemplating buying a setup that i can use here - i have been pricing it out, and i think i can get it done for about $2k

fortunately, now that i have the setup that i do, i can keep the same settings for both street and track, as i have been able to reduce the negative camber to an "acceptable" amount - i still need to reduce some more negative camber out of the rear, but i'm getting close<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Yes in this aspect I am lucky.

But I guess that when you are finally dialed in you don't have to change much. For instance, in Carrera Cup in Europe (997 GT3 Cup) the only variables they are allowed to play with are ride height, toe and sway bar settings. And they're pretty darn fast (faster than I'll ever be for sure).

And toe is something that can be adjusted on the driveway with a fair amount of accuracy, you only need a calculator and long enough bars. But then again, the laser rack is so much more fun [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[flash]

they actually make toe adjustment kits - pretty simple stuff, but it takes the slop of the tape measure tab out of the equation

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[DaveN]

Thread revival.



So my upper mounts are worn and the price is 500.00 ea <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> for a new mount. I am keepng all the original rubber bushings everywhere while upgrading the suspension so would it be best to go to a 3rd party camber plate setup for 50% of the cost? If so are there preferred brands for non-track use?



Added picture from eBay, for 105.00 can these be all that different than Racers Edge at 500.00?

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[flash]

i just bought a new mount for a bit over $300 from sunset. i'd check on pricing again.



on any camber plate, be certain that they use a spherical bearing to correct for the angular issue that the OEM unit does by means of a tilted plate.



i had plates on my car for about 10 minutes. due to the rest of my setup, they were incredibly harsh and made my dash rattle. i went back to stock.

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[DaveN]

My mechanic is echoing the same advice. I am going to take a slightly frugal route. I am going to see if a machine shop can "un-capture" the bearing by removing the dimples and replace it with a comparable one. I also want to see if they can devise a large round "C" shim that will remove the gap between the rubber and the upper plate thus renewing the transfer of motion.

It maybe be an exercise in futility but it's winter and I have loooootssss of time to kill.

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[TonD]

So, Dave, any success this winter <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> ?

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[flash]

filling the gap won't fix the problem



the gap is caused by preload on the spring exceeding the ability of the rubber to resist it. typically the rubber cracks on the underneath side. how big the gap gets is also exacerbated by higher spring rate and lower ride height.

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