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Stone guard decal replacement
#1

I finally got around to replacing my seals on the side cladding and the stone guard decal.
Well... at least I got it done on the driver's side, and ran out of time.

First, thanks to Jeff for the GREAT write-up in the DIY section. Pop-out plastic clips are very scary, even when you have directions on how to do it.


The part of the job that took the most time for me was removing the old stoneguard sticker.
I tried carefully peeling it off but could not get a piece larger than a dime, and mostly much smaller, due to the cracks and brillteness.
I tried heating it up, but that just made it fall apart easier when trying to pull it off.
Finally, I made the most progress by applying heat and then scraping it with a plastic putty knife, but this left A LOT of adhesive on the paint. This stuff took more than an hour to remove with an adhesive remover solvent


Can anybody else who has done this give me a suggestion for how to make it go easier?
I think I lost 20% of my brain cells from the solvent fumes on the driver's side decal. I don't think I can spare another 20% on the passenger side. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]

Am I doing something wrong, or is this just a PITA that I need to fight through?

Oh, and by the way, the driver's side looks fantastic!!!

Jamie



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Early '92 black coupe with classic grey interior, LSD, Original 17" C2 Turbo wheels, sport seats, and recessed hood badge. Recent upgrade to RSB Stage 1 with air box mod, Yellow Koni Sport adjustable shocks and struts, stiffer springs, RSB SS clutch and brake lines, and 968Forums sun screen...
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#2

have you tried IPA?

i use brakleen to remove solvent a lot of the time too
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

Jamie...correct - a hair dryer and a plastic putty knife and chemicals is the best way to go. I've done this for a few folks now and will be removing them from the coupe too. 3M adhesive remover, brake cleaner, goo-gone, Xenit, will all work to a certain extent. I try to avoid using heat guns to avoid burning paint and melting things! I'm having almost as much fun removing years of baked on brake dust on the Design 90 wheels on the coupe. BTW, brain cells are over rated.

- Darryl
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1992 Slate Gray Coupe over Carrera Gray Full Leather interior....1 of 1

2006 Cayenne S Icelandic Silver Titanium Edition

2006 Cayman S Seal Gray over Black
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#4

<!--quoteo(post=82474:date=Oct 26 2009, 03:10 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Oct 26 2009, 03:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->have you tried IPA?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Flash,
IPA. Great idea!
I'll get a six pack of Flying Fish before starting on the passenger's side.
That will definitely help.
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]




Sorry, couldn't resist.
Do you mean rubbing alcohol?
That would be less toxic than the nasty stuff I used (as long as I don't drink it).


Darryl,
In your experience, is the 3M stuff better than the others?
I used "Goof Off" adhesive remover because I had it on the shelf, but would buy the 3M stuff if it would save me time.


Thanks guys for the help. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

Jamie

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Early '92 black coupe with classic grey interior, LSD, Original 17" C2 Turbo wheels, sport seats, and recessed hood badge. Recent upgrade to RSB Stage 1 with air box mod, Yellow Koni Sport adjustable shocks and struts, stiffer springs, RSB SS clutch and brake lines, and 968Forums sun screen...
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#5

lol - yes IsoPropyl Alcohol

i would not use goof off - it contains xylene and will probably ruin the paint over time, as it is used to thin lacquer and will probably work into the paint and soften it
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#6

<!--quoteo(post=82486:date=Oct 26 2009, 04:50 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Oct 26 2009, 04:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->lol - yes IsoPropyl Alcohol

i would not use goof off - it contains xylene and will probably ruin the paint, as it is used to thin laquer<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Yikes! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]
Thanks for the warning on the goof-off.
I'll definitely keep that away from the car from now on.
The paint looks OK where I used it... so far at least. Am I out of the woods, or should I start having recurring nightmares about the paint doing something bad in the future?


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Early '92 black coupe with classic grey interior, LSD, Original 17" C2 Turbo wheels, sport seats, and recessed hood badge. Recent upgrade to RSB Stage 1 with air box mod, Yellow Koni Sport adjustable shocks and struts, stiffer springs, RSB SS clutch and brake lines, and 968Forums sun screen...
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#7

i would clean it really well, and then get some paint sealer on it - contact daryl on what would be best
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

The paint will "re-harden" but the damage will already be done. If it still looks ok, then you probably didn't do any harm. Flash is correct that you definitely need to get a coat of at least something on there after you clean it. Get a sealer/wax of some kind. Most times I'll end up polishing the area to remove any scuffs or scratches from the putty knife or finger nail marks.

I think the best adhesive remover is the 3M stuff. However, it contains Xylene as well. Brake cleaner does not contain Xylene nor does Xenit. Xenit does contain isopropyl alcohol but not sure how much.

The 3M stuff used to be in a black and blue plaid can but they've changed it. Now it's a bright red can and is simply labeled as "3M General Adhesive Cleaner" product # 08987. I think they make something one level stronger but this is the stuff us mortals can buy. Probably won't find it at retail stores but auto body suppliers and "real" auto parts stores will carry it. It doesn't smell any better than any of the other things you've already tried. Do it outside if possible.

Bottom line is anything strong enough to work must be used with caution. Only use enough to get the job done and clean, clean, clean as you go. I remember as a kid using the best tar remover in a little black, red, and white can...Dupont No. 7...smelled like gasoline and worked great. They took it off the market because people would leave a soaked rag on the hood of their car and it would eat through the paint.

- Darryl
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1992 Slate Gray Coupe over Carrera Gray Full Leather interior....1 of 1

2006 Cayenne S Icelandic Silver Titanium Edition

2006 Cayman S Seal Gray over Black
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#9

<!--quoteo(post=82488:date=Oct 26 2009, 05:01 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Oct 26 2009, 05:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->i would clean it really well, and then get some paint sealer on it - contact daryl on what would be best<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Great.
The area is covered with a nice looking stone guard decal right now.

If I rip that off, then I'm back to the adhesive removal nightmare.
And if the paint is softened, then maybe damaging it in the process.

It was certainly dry before I put the decal on.
I'm inclined to leave it alone, unless you think I'm making a big mistake.


Good thing the "depression of central nervous system function" from the 3M weather strip adhesive fumes hasn't worn off yet, or I might be pretty upset.

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Early '92 black coupe with classic grey interior, LSD, Original 17" C2 Turbo wheels, sport seats, and recessed hood badge. Recent upgrade to RSB Stage 1 with air box mod, Yellow Koni Sport adjustable shocks and struts, stiffer springs, RSB SS clutch and brake lines, and 968Forums sun screen...
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#10

Darryl,

Thanks for the help.
My previous post was in process before you posted, so I didn't see it.

I did put a coat of wax over the area around the stone guard, but didn't apply wax before the decal, assuming it might interfere with the adhesion.

I'm trying the Isopropyl Alcohol for the passenger side.

Along with a case of IPA... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

Early '92 black coupe with classic grey interior, LSD, Original 17" C2 Turbo wheels, sport seats, and recessed hood badge. Recent upgrade to RSB Stage 1 with air box mod, Yellow Koni Sport adjustable shocks and struts, stiffer springs, RSB SS clutch and brake lines, and 968Forums sun screen...
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#11

lol - good luck
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#12

Guys,

I think this one is a 'right of passage'.

I read all the posts, consulted Clarks Garage Note and commenced this job this morning. The drivers side came off fairly easily using the plastic scraper, the 15% alcohol solution recommended by Clarks, some heat and a lot of effort. Only took a hour or so. Results were fantastic.

Started on the passenger side which turned into a marathon. I could get the stonegaurd off but the adhesive just wouldn't budge. Tried a stronger concoction of alcohol, wheel cleaner, heat ,different rags but all with limited results. I had to resort to painstakingly removing the adhesive with a small spatula (like you use to mix epoxy), some heat and taking it off 1/2mm at a time with a srt of paring/sawing action. In the end, I just couln't remove it all and resorted to some cut and polish with the polisher. This actually worked well, much to the delight of my blisters, but only after the bulk of the adhesive had been scraped off. Two and a half hours!!

After a cut and polish it looks fantastic.

If I was doing this for someone else, I certainly would have added a hefty 'pain in the %$*' charge on top of the 4 hours it took me!!

Having done this<b>, what is the general verdict about the stone guards?</b> Put on again or leave off. I note a mixture of situation in the pictures I see.

I also note a rear stone guard part in the catalogue. Anyone know about these?

Left Rear: 944 559 323 00
Right Rear 944 559 324 01

Ciao!

Peter R



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#13

Try Acetone. Available at the drug store. Same stuff that is in nail polish remover. I've had generally good luck with most adhesive removal jobs with acetone. Be careful with the underlying paint.
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#14

-heat gun / steamer

-3M Adhesive Remover
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#15

do not use acetone on any car with a clear coat - it will haze the clear
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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