[Simuse]

1 - Just bought my cab a month ago - I LOVE IT.



2 - Just found this site - I LOVE IT.



3 - And........



About a week ago when just getting into my car I noticed the stereo was on (car was off) - not really on, but back light was on (lighting the dials and display - but nothing shown on the display). After starting the car stereo would not turn on, or off as the case may be. Just lit up was all.



In the end I pulled the fuse (#39 - second question, two fuses are tagged to the "radio" - what is the difference between them?)...popped the fuse back in, and stereo turned on again - entered code and all was good.



Two days later same thing happened. While stereo was lit up, and on (but not on and actually working) I started pressing buttons (just cause) and when I pressed the "Tape" button it turned on (for real) and worked...but was locked on FM on one station.



Did the fuse thing, and then two days later.......you get the idea.



Anyone else had anything like this happen? Is it just the stereo or a symptom of an electrical issue?



If it's just the stereo I am thinking of pulling it and getting it fixed...any advice on this? How difficult is it to get out?



Also thinking of putting in something new - any suggestions on a new system that looks / works great (I am not that into a bunch of chrome dials and 50 different colored blinking lights)?



Thanks!

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[Greimann]

Welcome!



It sounds like the old original stereo is on the way out. Not really worth repairing in my book. Hopefully the previous owner left the removal tools in the glovebox. Someone who has removed the stock stereo can comment on how to remove it, but it usually involves inserting the tools into holes in the outer frame.



Any single DIN sized aftermarket stereo will fit. It all depends on what kind of features you want. Crutchfield has a nice selection: http://www.crutchfield.com/

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[Simuse]

Thanks for the reply!



Hmmmm...........removal tools..............



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Out of curiousity do you know - on the Crutchfield site they don't show 968's...just 911 Carrera 2 and 911 Carrera 4 (which I think should really be 964's)...I am assuming that selecting either of these will bring up selections that fit a 968?



Thanks again!

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[Greimann]

Just skip the vehicle selection. Any single DIN size fits, which is 99% of the units they sell.

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[SILVY968]

Simuse,



I replaced my radio with a Porsche CDR-210. It matches the car interior exactly, says PORSCHE and fits. You can find them used on Ebay. The tools to remove and install them are also available for as low as $5.

The wiring is easy, except that you will need to pull an illumination line from the clock lamp just below the radio.



Under DIY you will find manuals that will make working on your 968 easier.



Browse this site under MODIFICATIONS to find more fun things to do.

YOU MUST DO THE AIRBOX MOD!



Welcome.

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[Simuse]

Greimann: The only problem I am finding with Crutchfield is that THERE ARE TOO MANY SELECTIONS!



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Any single DIN - got it, I appreciate your help with this!



Silvy: Yeah - have checked out the Mods a bit and I fear that now my very tiny brain is exploding with ideas!



The CDR-210 does look good - checked out your car's pics and it seems to match the interior really well - do you know if the 220 fits too? Did a quick e-Bay search and found a 210 for $350...



I see you are in Seattle - me too...(go Hawks).

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[SILVY968]

Simuse,

As far as I know the 210 and 220 are the same size. I went with a 210 for price and looks.

Send me a PM if you want to hook up and talk 968's.

P.S. I have a set of removal tools that you could borrow.

Although the Seahawks won today...I did not follow as I am not a sports guy.

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[flash]

welcome welcome



if you are changing your deck, you have a lot of thigs you can consider, depending on what you want in looks, features, power, price, and flexibility



the single most important feature in any deck, for optimum sound, is a parametric equalizer (not graphic) - this is especially important in a cab, where the dynamics vary greatly top up versus top down, and are more affected by road speed than in a hardtop - this will get you a lot farther than speakers, amps or anything else, in getting a quality sound out of your system, and can be found in decks for as little as less than $200



since you have a cab, look carefully at the screen - sun plays havoc with fancy displays, making them hard to read



poke around and see what you like

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[Simuse]

Brian: Thanks for the offer on the removal tools! I'd love to buy you a beer and pick your brain sometime soon - will send you a note.



Flash: Very good advice on sound quality considerations and display visibility in a cab (I probably would not have thought to consider either!). Luckily I am not a fancy display type of guy so would have dodged that bullet.



If I understand correctly a parametric equalizer adjusts for things like road noise, rpm, etc - yes?



This does sound like a smart thing!



I've been leaning toward's Brian's suggestion of the Becker CDR210...



(There's four on ebay here and have also found one at SW Stereo.)



...but am not finding info on these having a parametric equalizer...too many options...too much time to consider them all.



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

a parametric will not compensate for increases so much as it compensates for those anomolies in the cabin that create premature distortion in the sound



every car has its own audio anomolies, but cabs are inherantly noiser than hardtops, even when the top is up, in the neighbor hood of 20db louder - when you are talking about overcoming that noise, you have to apply amp power - the harmonic distortion that occurs, does so at some frequencies more than others due to door panel construction, speaker placement, and other such factors - a simple bass/treble setup does not allow you to compensate for these



the amount of power required to drive speakers in a cab to the same sound pressure level as a hardtop, in this car, is about 150% of the hardtop - that means that if you want the sound to noise level at +40db in the car, and you are able to achieve that by running a deck with say 20 watts/ch RMS, you will only get about 75% of the level you would in a hardtop



many people don't realize that you really can't expect to tune a system sitting still - they will tune it in the shop and send you on our way - it sounds great when you are there with the guy all smiling at your new system - then you drive away and start fiddling as you get going and sounds start disappearing - then you aren't smiling anymore, and now are wondering what crap the guy sold you



this is where the need for accurate and finite tone controls comes in



as noise levels go up, certain areas of sound get lost or buried - in a cab, this is the bottom and top (bass and treble) - in a hardtop, simple bass/treble is enough control for most people - in a cab, it isn't nearly finite enough - what you end up doing is also inadvertantly adding low mids and high mids, becaue the sweep paramaters are very wide, and because you find yourself cranking them enough to make up the deficit, that you end up with this muddy low end and honkingly shrill mids



a parametric eq lets you find those frequencies, far more accurately than even a graphic eq, and adjust them with a specifc bandwidth and amount - this allows the amp to send the power to the speakers without having the speakers break up when you push them



the bottom line is that a parametric allows you to use the power you have to it's maximum - this is true regardless of which car, but is much more important in a cab



there are decks that compensate for increases in noise, but they are toward the top end of the cost spectrum, and it is a separate feature from the parametric



look for something you can see in the sun, is easy for you to use, has the other features you want, and has this kind of tone control - after all, it's not really about what it looks like, or whether or not it matches the interior or original deck, as much as what it sounds like



form follows function - not the other way around



i am just about to wrap up my system in my cab - i have finally found the stuff i need to make it all work right, and not spend a fortune getting there - i'll have pics soon



if you have other questions, i would be happy to help - send me an email

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[Simuse]

I think I got it - thanks for the info - that's really helpful, and like I said before something that (to my chagrin) I wouldn't have thought of to consider if you hadn't mentioned it.



Thanks again, I appreciate it.



(Looking forward to checking out the pics of your system!)

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