[Gotter]

Can some guys post a quick pic of non-OEM steering wheels they have in their 968s? Need to replace and there are just too many to decide... need help! Thanks guys!

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[PorscheDude]

I have a nice factory CS wheel I'm going to list this week.
$325 shipped.
Can't post a pic right now (on a iPhone).

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[Johannvb]

There are a couple of pics in this topic:
http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtop...=steering+wheel

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[biotechee]

Mine is OEM.

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[Johannvb]

I also found this on RL. I realy want to install this wheel in my car, but I dont like the idea of machining the hub...plus I have no idea how this must be done [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

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[Anchorman]

It might be - although I'm doubtful - that the wheel would fit OK without machining the hub. The only way to know, though, is to do a test fit. The question is whether the large retaining nut that screws onto the steering column and holds the wheel in place can be turned enough to hold securely. On the 996 wheel I installed, the hub had to be machined to allow the nut to be secure.

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[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=78117:date=Aug 18 2009, 03:42 PM:name=Anchorman)-->QUOTE (Anchorman @ Aug 18 2009, 03:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->On the 996 wheel I installed, the hub had to be machined to allow the nut to be secure.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Can someone please write a DIY with pictures on how to do this? Pretty please [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blush.gif[/img]

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[biotechee]

Johann-

If that is the wheel you want, you have no choice but to machine the hub. The thickness of the hub on the 993/986/996 4- and 3-spoke steering wheels (exactly like what you have pictured) is TOO thick. So what happens is when you go to mount the new wheel onto the spline of the steering column, there are not enough exposed threads to engage the nut (with spring washer between it and the hub) to hold the wheel onto the steering column. Not much needs to be machined out.

And since 968's were "hand built", tolerances vary. So, the amount you would need to machine out could be different than someone else. If you machine too much out, the wheel will crack from the hub and it will then be useless. Machine too little, and the nut will still not be able to engage the threads enough to be secure/safe.

Test fit of everything is the only true way to determine what you actually need to do. Unfortunately, that means you have to install the 993 clockspring, wire it up, then try the wheel.... and you could be without a steering wheel while you get the new one machined.

As long as you have access to a machine shop, they will be able to do it and it shouldn't cost much or take too long. They'll put it on an end mill and have it done in 15 minutes or less.

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[flash]

bio - nice looking wheel - oem from what? what is the outer diameter and what is the thickness of the rim?
ps here's mine

   

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[Ryan]

Could the wheel be machined with an inset for the nut? This way the wheel is bastardized and not the car.

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[biotechee]

Flash-

OEM Porsche

It is the 993RS steering wheel (less expensive than the CS wheel IIRC). Probably the same size as the 968CS as they are both made by Momo. Never measured it for either of the dimensions you note. Can measure it tonight if you want.

<!--quoteo(post=78124:date=Aug 18 2009, 11:31 AM:name=Ryan)-->QUOTE (Ryan @ Aug 18 2009, 11:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Could the wheel be machined with an inset for the nut? This way the wheel is bastardized and not the car.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

The wheel is what needs to be machined. The problem after that is the 968 clockspring doesn't fit with the 993/986/996 3 and 4 spokers. The 993 clockspring has these two "posts" which stick up (at the 12 and 6 o'clock locations) and the steering wheel has matching holes. This orients the wheel to the clockspring so your turn signal works properly IIRC.

The 968 clockspring does not have these two posts, but has a tab instead, and doesn't mate with the new wheel.

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[flash]

bio - yes please

does this mean that your turn signals don't turn on and off on their own, or have you figured out a solution?

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[biotechee]

Flash-

Didn't mean to confuse anyone: The 993RS wheel is a direct fit with the 968. No need to change the clockspring. The installation is the same as what is required to install the 968CS wheel. Very easy and my turn signal work just fine. I even had to add the little horn contact doohickey, which was a pain to source as they were out of new ones in the US when I did it.

Clockspring only needs to be changed if you are going to the 993/986/996 3 or 4 spoke wheel.

Will take some measurements of my 993RS wheel later tonight. I do believe the thickness of the wheel is smaller than the normal 968 wheel and the diameter should be the same. But I'll check.

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[flash]

interesting - i had to change my clock spring to use the wheel i have, which is the CS knockoff that many of us have

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[biotechee]

I just remember it was an easy install and the only extra thing I needed was the horn contact pad.

Heyzeus my brain is fading!

Basically, I followed the procedures outlined here in the DIY section for installation of the 968CS wheel. See threads:

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=977
http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=122

As I re-read these, it is clear that the 968 clockspring is NOT required for the installation of the 993RS wheel I have. So, I therefore removed the 968 clockspring to install the 993RS wheel.

Sorry again for the confusion.

Bottom line: for 993RS steering wheel installation, remove the clockspring, install the horn contact pad as referenced in the above threads, connect of the wires (see threads) and you're good to go. Procedure should be the same for the 968CS wheel as far as I know. I won't mention the other "thing" one needs to do to prevent unwanted lights on the dash.... That is obvious from the 930S steering wheel install PDF noted above.

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[Gotter]

<!--quoteo(post=78123:date=Aug 18 2009, 09:22 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 18 2009, 09:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->bio - nice looking wheel - oem from what? what is the outer diameter and what is the thickness of the rim?
ps here's mine

<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Flash, does the Hub and the new steering wheel not matching up drive you batty? I know you get anal over lines and such. (headlights being centered...)

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[biotechee]

JC- I thought it would bother me on mine, but once you're in the seat, you can't tell. Both my picture and Flash's picture are from above so the area between the steering wheel and the hub is accentuated a bit.

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[flash]

my hub and steering wheel match up perfectly - not sure what you mean

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[968Oz]

<!--quoteo(post=78140:date=Aug 18 2009, 08:28 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 18 2009, 08:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->interesting - i had to change my clock spring to use the wheel i have, which is the CS knockoff that many of us have<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Hi Flash - What was the source of you "CS knockoff". I'd love to get one.

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[biotechee]

<!--quoteo(post=78123:date=Aug 18 2009, 11:22 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 18 2009, 11:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->bio - what is the outer diameter and what is the thickness of the rim?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Outside overall diameter of the wheel appears to be 14-5/16". Thickness of the rim appears to be 1-3/16" (at 12 o'clock, not at the two thick parts). This is just eyeballing it with a tape measure.

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