[spin]

I've noticed that the steering wheel on my car moves when I hit a bump on the road. The car keeps going straight but the wheel moves/jumps in my hands. If I'm going real slow and the road is curved, the car wants to go in the direction of the curve and the steering wheel moves in the direction of the curve as well. I spoke to Jay about this and he said I probably need caster blocks but I should ask on the forums anyway. What do you think? thanks

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[bombfactory]

Sounds like it could be rack bushings. I recently got some urethane ones off of eBay and they're working great. Wouldn't discount caster blocks, wheel bearings or tie rod ends either. Definitely have things checked out!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Kim]

Check the bushings - I replaced mine with Delrin - and also the bolts that hold the rack to the cross member. I paid for two new strut mounts, two alignments, two steering shafts (one of which was for a 944 and was a mirror image of the one needed) and one tie rod end before I got smart enough to take charge of the issue and request that the bushings be replaced. The Delrin one has a ridge that prevents it from sliding along the rack. It was made to correct this issue.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

hi Kim

we're you experiencing the same symptoms as me?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Kim]

identical.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

The delrin bushings are pretty expensive (something like $50 apiece), but your don't have to replace both of them, just the one that fits into the bracket with the groove in it. I believe this is the left side bushing. The other one doesn't actually hold the steering rack in place on the cross-member - it just keeps it from flopping in the breeze. The rubber bushings are very cheap, so if your right bushing looks bad, you might want to replace it with a stock rubber bushing, and replace the left one with delrin.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

thanks a lot for all the information this should help a lot

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

replaced the bushings, the left control arm and strut and the problem is still here... steering wheel escapes out of your hands when you hit a bump and everything feels loose... what a nightmare. any more suggestions?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[bombfactory]

This is definitely a longshot, but check that the front swaybar is installed correctly. The fit is a bit wonky, but it is possible to install it backwards, flipped left to right (ask me how I know!). If this is the case it might be causing the problems you described when you hit a bump.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Rob in Oz]

First things first - have you had a wheel alignment recently? If your camber, caster or toe settings are off, you can experience the symptoms you describe.



Rob

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

yes had a wheel alignment

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mbardeen]

Have you checked the basic things like wheel bearings and tie-rod ends?



Also, it's not clear from your message, but did you replace both struts or just one? Did you replace the castor blocks as suggested previously?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

castor blocks not replaced yet, replaced left strut and control arm. also replaced both bushings. will ask the guy about the wheel bearings and tie rod ends

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[94SilverCab]

Castor Blocks...boom

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

hahaha jay that's probably it. should have listened to you from the beginning.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mbardeen]

FYI: I've always heard that you should replace struts in pairs. I assume that's because if one is worn and one is new, you'll get some asymetric handling issues. Maybe those more knowledgable on the reasons can chime in?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

correct, assuming the replaced one is new. it's just like tires

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[spin]

oh my god really... the place that changed the left arm and strut didn't say anything about needing to change the right one too. And they charged me 1200 total... I can't pay that amount again for the right side. don't know what to do anymore.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mbardeen]

The arm is the expensive bit. A strut is around $300 + labor.



Edit: I don't think it's essential that you change that right strut immediately. But it would be good within a couple thousand miles to get it changed.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Inkedupfatboy]

I think I have a similar issue - going to have my guy check it out....the car gets pretty squirrely around 95mph...things really start to loosen up ...Need to check the front suspension. Only 44 K on the car, but it sat for 5 years. WIll check when I can get the car in the shop today.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.