[968norway]

Looks like my DMF is on the way out, thinking to install the sport FW from RS barn.

Then there is the spring centered clutch disk, been reading some earlier threads, there seems to have been some issues with these a couple of years ago, are these resolved?

Is it just vibrations or are there other things?



Thanks,

Tore

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[Cloud9...68]

I'm planning to do the same thing. I believe the spring-centered clutch disk proved to be not viable due to some clearance issues, so I don't think it's an option.

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[flash]

yeah - we tried everything - no dice - can't resolve the rattle - it's better with the 18lb rs barn than the 12 lb fidanza, and it's even better if you use the S2 harmonic balancer, but it's still there - i am learning to live with it



do a search here (always use more options) - there is a ton of feedback and response on this very issue

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[968norway]

I have read through both threads, but the info is a bit conflicting.

So my question is, is the spring-centered clutch plate, which is shown on RS-barn's website, not a good idea to buy?



Or is it ok and it's just that it doesn't get rid of some inconvenient rattles at certain rpms?

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[flash]

since i designed that clutch disk, i am in a unique position to say that it did not resolve the rattle, and did not work like we hoped - pete just hasn't updated the website

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[968norway]

ok thanks, nice to know



Up early on a sunday



Tore

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[flash]

lol - i don't sleep much - never have

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[968norway]

I was just taking a look in the Sachs catalog for clutch disks. It seems the disk for the later 944 turbo has the same diameter, splines, hub as the std 968 disk and this disk is also used on the 968 turbo S. From photographs it seems to be of a different construction than the solid center, with some springs and such. So the dumb question is, would this one fit, and would it be any better than a std. one?

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[flash]

nope - the springs hit the flywheel bolts

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[968norway]

Yeah, I figured something like that.



Now I just have to decide if I want to live with the rattles. There has been an upswing in speedbumps here in the frozen north.

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[Cloud9...68]

Since my plans are to make my car much more track-worthy than it is now, I'm planning to go with the SMFW, and live with the rattle. I'm in the process of tryng t remove the old flywheel now, but am having some difficulty removing the bolts (shocking, I know...). Are you planning to do the job yourself? Flash has offered me some very helpful tips with my endeavor, so once I get mine out, I will definitely share my do's and don'ts with the community.

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[pure&simple]

Flywheel rattles on overrun when you are coasting. Unaffected by bumps in the road. If you keep your foot ever so slightly on the gas, you can avoid it most of the time.

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[Cloud9...68]

I understand the rattle happens at about 2200 rpm, and is worse on decel than during accel.

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[flash]

yup



if i get the transaxle hot, it will do it at idle too, but i also have a different fluid in there that i might change out to swepco - the kind of fluid actually makes a difference (figured that out trying different ones in a failed attempt to silence it)

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[Cloud9...68]

Interesting input about the type of differential fluid having an impact on the rattle. Prior to changing it, wouldn't it be a good idea to check with Guard to make sure it's compatible with the differential? I have no information suggesting there could be an issue, but it wouldn't hurt to check. In any event, please let us know what you find. Thanks.

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[968norway]

I won't be doing the job myself, don't have any place to to do it.



The low speed driving at and over speedbumps usually happens at rpms where it's supposed to rattle the most.



Been thinking about winter driving too. I usually don't use the car in winter, but sometimes I have to. Could be a bit trickier on icy roads.



Oh well, still thinking

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[flash]

cloud - don't get me wrong, the impact of fluid was non-existant at the 2300 mark, and really only made a difference at idle



when i tried the different fluids, it was only for a brief period (like a day) - i would put it in to see what happened - then i would try another



the torque sensing diff does not suffer from fluid additive requirements like the clutch diff

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[Cloud9...68]

"the torque sensing diff does not suffer from fluid additive requirements like the clutch diff"



Ah, Ok thanks; I was wondering about that. So a nice, say, 200 weight fluid wouldn't do a bang-up job of stifling the rattle... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

lol - i actually tried straight 140 - quieted it down at idle, but since i couldn't really get it into gear i couldn't tell what it did rolling down the road



seriously though, it was amazing at how difficult it got to be to shift with that thick fluid in there

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[Cloud9...68]

"but since i couldn't really get it into gear i couldn't tell what it did rolling down the road"



roflmao - I'm glad I wasn't drinking coffee while I read that, or I would have spit it out all over my keyboard and monitor!

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