[WYLDCTZ]

So using Dave's instruction manual, wiring kit for the trunk, and the Bulldog 1702 from Pep Boys, I went to work this afternoon on installing remote keyless entry into my car. Here is my summary:



Removed the passenger seat, and realized the computer stuff wasn't under there, but under the front angled kickboard thing. No worries, was easier to work without the seat in there anyways...



Pulled off the wood piece ok, but then wasn't sure exactly which screws to take off to get the metal piece out. On my car, that thing was really stuck in there. Took a lot of prying and maneuvering to get it out and flipped over so I could work on it.



All the wiring was exactly as described in Dave's manual. Only tricky part for me was hooking into the 12V wire, and Dave recommended instead of cutting it and splicing to just peel off some of the covering of the wire in the middle, and spice it that way. Worked like a charm. Got the door locks working.



Next came the trunk release. Had to figure out how to get a wire from the passenger foot area back to the trunk release. Took a while to find a route back there under the carpet (is everyone's carpet superglued in place like mine is??? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> but once I got the wire back there, I just hooked up the connector from Dave and all was good.



Actually, two problems I ran into: 1 - I snapped off one of the little fancy wire connectors. So I had to do a little jury rigging there. Second, the ground connector supplied on Dave's wiring harness was just barely too small for the bolt to fit through. I ended up using some pliers to smash it on there, but thats a suggestion Dave, make that little loop connector thing one size bigger <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



And viola, trunk was working as well. So I am a happy camper now with real power doors and trunk.... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Dave - Also another question someone might know. I don't know if this was coincidence or on purpose, but my car wouldn't start when the wiring harness was disconnected from the little computer. The engine would turn over continuously, but wouldn't light up. Is this some type of starter kill feature with the stock alarm? I noticed the Bulldog remote thing has a starter kill feature. Can this be hooked up somehow to it?

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[Greimann]

Good deal! It is a good feeling when a project like that works out just successfully.



Thanks for the feedback. I'll remember to put a larger spade on that wire.



I believe there is a start kill on the factory alarm. I don't think is is necessary to wire in the bulldog feature.



Another tip on the Bulldog unit. You will find that the second key fob does not work. That is normal. You have to synchronize the two using the instructions in the back of the manual.

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[WYLDCTZ]

Yeah, after trying all different kinds of things for about 5 minutes to get the second fob to work (putting to close to the antenna, far way, upside down, knocking it against the car a few times, etc...) I realized maybe it needed some kind of programming trick to get it to work, so I decided to RTFM <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[WYLDCTZ]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Mar 16 2005, 08:01 PM']Good deal! It is a good feeling when a project like that works out just successfully.



Thanks for the feedback. I'll remember to put a larger spade on that wire.

[right][post="1961"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Yes, the project went well. I'm really really happy with it. The key fob things are a little 80s for me, but maybe I can scrap off the 'bulldog' log and replace it with PORSCHE or something <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



One other thing that would have been helpful for incompetents like me would be a picture of the metal plate, with arrows pointing to the screws you have to undo. I ended up undoing all the screws, even the ones holding the computers on, and still thought I missed something. My metal plate was just so glued in that it felt like something was still just holding it on. You could note that this might be the case and you just have to yank the sucker out...



Thanks again for a GREAT DIY.

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[SILVY968]

I just installed the Bulldog as indicated in this post.

Problem:

The driver's lock does not go up and down when LOCK and UNLOCK are pressed. The LED goes on and off, but the door button does not move up or down.

The passenger door works like a charm.

I have always been able to use the key to move the driver's button up and down.

I think that this mean that I have broken activator in the drivere's door.

Anyone have any infornation?

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[gryphon]

I took the lazy man's approach--paid a friend who works in Best Buy's installation dept $140 to buy a Viper 350HV with his discount and install it in my garage. Voila--a cool Keyless entry with more time to drive my car.

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[Etnier]

[quote name='SILVY968' date='Oct 16 2005, 12:32 AM']I just installed the Bulldog as indicated in this post.

Problem:

The driver's lock does not go up and down when LOCK and UNLOCK are pressed. The LED goes on and off, but the door button does not move up or down.

The passenger door works like a charm.

I have always been able to use the key to move the driver's button up and down.

I think that this mean that I have broken activator in the drivere's door.

Anyone have any infornation?

[right][post="11299"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



What happens when you use the door-locking switch in the center console?

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[SILVY968]

Driver's door lock button does not go up and down.

Same as with fob.



Points to actuator or wire off of actuator. If I am not getting DC at the actuator connector, where does the voltage come from? A relay? If so what relay, where?



There is one from a 968 on EBAY for under $10.00 bid.

I bid on it just to be safe.

I am not looking forward to removing the door panel, but it seems inevitable.

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[SILVY968]

I can hear the actuator in the driver's door.

Anyone got pics of the linkage between the actuator and the mechanism?

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[gryphon]

Brian,



I just repaired my driver's side door lock that had the same symptoms. I replaced the central locking rod, 944-537-511-00 ($2.09), a plastic rod with a ball on one end and a hinge on the other. After pulling the door panel off you'll see it through the cutout where the actuator is mounted, looking up about 10:00 o'clock. Note, mark the position of the actuator before removing it, so you don't have to experiment with adjusting it when you re-install.



Good luck,

Tom

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[SILVY968]

Tom,



I'll order it today. Thanks for the help.

Brian

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[kramermic]

I have been curious about installing a keyless system, but am unsure about these pep boys kits. How is the quality? Warranty? How long to install? Any other issues i should know about?

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[flash]

i have had an odd issue - it lost its programming twice - the fobs just stopped working - reset and it was ok - not sure what that is about



all in all, i have been very happy with the system

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[Greimann]

[quote name='kramermic' date='Oct 18 2005, 07:11 AM']I have been curious about installing a keyless system, but am unsure about these pep boys kits.  How is the quality?  Warranty?  How long to install?  Any other issues i should know about?

[right][post="11394"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

My Bulldog unit has worked great so far. It takes about as long to install them as a car stereo.

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[rustech]

There's some better systems out there, but since a few of the outputs might be opposite polarity, it's not as plug and play with the procedures that have been written. The quick and easy solution is currently the bulldog for obvious reasons.

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[kramermic]

Rustech, what are some of the better systems?

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[rustech]

Which brands are best is entirely subjective. Some of the brands that are out there are Python, Auto Mate, Code Alarm (CSI), Chapman, Clifford, Black Widow, Valet, Viper, Bulldog, Hornet, Radioshack, Jenson, Rattler, Audiovox, BOA, Prestige, Avital, etc.



The CSI is the unit I chose (available at CircuitCity). It has a small remote that actually looks decent as opposed to a lot of the competition, as well as has a positive output for flashing lights which is most ideal for those who want that function on the 968. I've heard good things about Clifford and Viper.

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[kramermic]

When I bought an aftermarket alarm for my gone but not forgotten E34 5 series, I went with clifford. At the time, I was told it was the best out. Now Clifford is owned by the same company (DEI) as viper, python, valet and a number of the brands you mentioned. I think I might assume the higher tier brands owned by DEI are all very similar (Python, Clifford, Viper). Also, what do i need to look for in these systems so that I can wire it to my rear hatch? I want door lock/unlock and rear hatch release. I don't care about the remote start (had it on my 5 series...don't need it again).

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[Greimann]

[quote name='kramermic' date='Oct 19 2005, 05:46 AM']...  Also, what do i need to look for in these systems so that I can wire it to my rear hatch?  I want door lock/unlock and rear hatch release.  ...

[right][post="11450"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Look for a trunk pop feature that sends a ground signal. Most basic systems can be wired to either send a positive or ground to the latch soleniods, depending on the requirements of your car, so you really wouldn't need to worry about this too much.



You will then need to rig a relay per the wiring diagram, or I can make one up for you. Info here: http://www.968engineering.com/trunkrelay.html

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[rustech]

Krameric, any descent system will work, if you have any questions during the install, just ask and someone will be able to assist you.

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