[Bulti]

You can't compare street cars with a unibody to monocoque formula cars. A unibody car needs a roof to get stiff. It's either that or add a bunch of reinforcements -and thus weight- to get it even close to a hard top. You need a unibody for crash protection and comfort. And ok, you got the extremely expensive hypercars and what not with monocoques or space frames for the street, but when it comes to cars 99% of us can affort and drive everyday, solid roofs are just more efficient.

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[flash]

perhaps efficient, but still missing the key ingredient, which is danger.  no point in racing if you can't die in the effort

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[Bulti]

Lol, ok. Can't argue with that.

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

When raising and lowering the top you just have to be more careful. Make sure the pull and push is even and when lowering fold it neatly and lay a soft towel (I think someone else mentioned this before)on the rear window screen. This procedure might take 30 seconds longer...big deal!!

Keep in mind that 90% of the operation is done manually anyway......why not go for 100%.

We live in such an "automated" world.....I think it is actually nice to do certain things the "old fashion way"

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[wildcat]

I've had my motors disconnected for years and I find it takes little effort to put it up manually, and rather enjoy the procedure but then I'm pushing 60 and little things like that aren't a big deal.

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

The subject my technician, Dewen Wales, commented on when I asked him what to do with the top. "just leave it to be in manual mode, the older we get the less important it becomes"

 

PS: Hope to meet a lot of you at Lake Tahoe this summer.

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[Remotecontroller]

WAY WAY WAY late the party on this post, but what I did was disconnect the cable at the motor and got everything positioned where I wanted it and then reinserted the cable into the motor.  All there is on the motors are a retainer clip to remove and then you pull out the square cable from the motor.

 

This way I didn't have to loosen anything and the frame pretty much self adjusted itself so that the motors would be in synch.  It is a pain removing/reinstalling the rear shelf thing, but if the top is happy in "manual" mode this will 100% work as long as the transmission gears are in good shape/don't skip teeth allowing things to get out of whack later.

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[Greystone]

gotta love this - the bolt that you loosen to put the top in manual mode is a single use bolt that has to be replaced before you go back to power mode.

What is the torque spec for this bolt?

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[Greystone]

Sorry,  just found it.  search is your friend.  35Nm

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