[Etnier]

My AJUSA '930S" wheel arrived yesterday and since it was pretty warm out today I went to try to swap wheels. I hit a problem pretty quickly in that I seem to have a different assembly than is described in the DIY .pdf: I'm almost certain I could NOT unplug the wires attached to the clockspring (i.e. there were no detachable connectors at that point), and those wires are-

(2X) brown/white

(1X) blue,



...in contrast to the .pdf which mentions an orange wire.



Any idea what's up with that?

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[Greimann]

You have to pull on those wires so they drag the connectors up out of the column shroud. They are kind of buried down in there. You then should see the orange connector (not wire) , that is where the resistor goes.

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[Etnier]

That's so funny: I just got your email on this simultaneously with your response, both seconds after I posted!



Back to the workshop on the occasion of the next thaw, I guess.



Thanks!

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[outback 968]

John

I had the same problem and found that I had to go under the dash to find the orange connector. Once I did - it was pretty smooth sailing from there - just unhitched it - put in the resistor - uncoupled the horn connector then inserted the 928 part - new wheel on - and that was it. Good luck

Phil

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[Etnier]

I finished the job early this AM in 7º weather. It went fine, although I think I got off one notch from TDC. Thanks to you both for your help. I do think that 'under the dash' thing may be the better solution in some cases: worked for me.



Thanks again.

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[flash]

mine is off a bit too - not a notch though - right in betwen - i guess with the 4 spoke wheel, i just didn't notice, but i find that hard to believe, because that is something that drives me nuts - anyway, a quick adjustment of the tie rod ends, and it will be fine (of course, i've been entirely too lazy to do that)



did you have any resulting "scraping" sound? i ahve to pull my wheel yet again and stick some grease on the contact path

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[Etnier]

I think I got a cumulative error and wound up quite a bit off. I'm going back in soon to adjust. Don't think the rod ends will need work, because the original wheel was 100% on.



Grease is mentioned in Dave's DIY, so I applied it as part of the install. I still have a tube of Sears white grease that I happen to know I bought in 1972!



Dave: I know you solicited feedback on the DIY when you released it. Having done the work, I'd say the pdf probably needs to be revised to clarify and amplify on that cable/connector thing. Snaking the cable up isn't mentioned and is quite a process: In my case I installed the resistor from under the dash and then snaked the free cable up and out. I had originally expected to disconnect a cable at the clockspring mechanism.



For utmost clarity, I would also suggest instructing the user to break the wheel down to its three main components before starting the process, and would mention the need for the horn wiper part up at the top, in case someone doesn't read through the doc before starting work. But I couldn't have done it without the DIY, and really appreciated having socket and other tool dimensions specified as part of the doc.



Thanks, guys...

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[Greimann]

Good points. I'll revise the DIY.

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