[flash]

nope. it only stays on for a major system fault. it's kind of hinky that way. the code remains in memory, but the indicator shuts off.



maybe there is somebody near you with a durametric?



the one that would bug me is the O2. if the sensor is on its way out, that would cause failures that could trigger knock as well as other more significant issues. how old is the sensor? they are only supposed to last about 60k miles

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[banditsc]

O2 Regulation code could also be a large vacuum leak. I had that one when the center hose on the throttle body was not attached.

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[BeBe]

I have no idea whether the O2 sensor has been replaced. I bought the car with just shy of 60K miles on it and I've only put on about 2K since. The check engine light first came on shortly after I replaced the chip. There may or may not be a connection. Another observation I have that may or may not be related is that the bottom half of my tailpipe gets sooty/dirty within a hundred miles or so. I don't notice any smoke, but would this be an indication that I'm running rich or something?

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[flash]

bebe - time to start a separate thread. i'll move the relevant posts over to it as soon as you do.

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[BeBe]

I figured out the significance of long blinks vs short blinks (mentioned in one of my earlier posts in this thread). There is a separator of sorts at the beginning of the set of codes. In other words, there is the initial long blink when you turn the key on. Then, you get the first stored code sequence (short blinks). Then, you get the next sequence (if there is one). Then you get a long blink before starting through the stored codes again as an indicator that you are starting at the beginning again. At least, that's what I think I discovered.

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[kwikt]

Agreed.

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[tryan]

Durametric has a little diagram that will help you visualize the sequence.

http://www.durametric.com/porsche968faultcodes.aspx

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[SILVY968]

As I mentioned in an earlier post my car used to be able to run the blink test and then it stopped. As of late I have been having intermittent problems with the engine when she first starts.The engine has never quit while running or at a stop light. It does not matter if the engine is warm or cold.

The first issue:

No blink test. - not a big deal, but may mean more computer issues going on.

Second issue:

I get "pinging" when asking the engine to drive up a hill under 3K rpm. (using premium 92 gas) Also not a game changer, but anoying.

Third issue:

Sometimes the engine does not want to start as it normally does, so I try again and it starts. It just cranks and cranks and does not fire. This is about one to two times a week (daily driver)

Most of the time when I start the car and back up, the idle drops and the engine stops. Keeping the revs up a bit keeps it from stalling.

Sometimes when I am starting up the engine the engine feels lumpy, as if it is about to die. Throttle it up and it feels lumpy until I get to 2500-3000 rpm and it seems to go away and it is OK.

 

Changed the DME replay, and have newish plugs/wires/cap and rotor.

I am thinking that the loss of the blink ability may point in the direction of a faulty DME computer, but I wanted to ask for more opinions before I spend that kind of money!

 

Thanks

Brian

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[flash]

you definitely have a control problem, and it does sound like an ECU issue.  before diving into the ECU, try cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner.

 

after that, look into the chip.  what chip is in there?  they can fail, though it is rare

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[SILVY968]

you definitely have a control problem, and it does sound like an ECU issue.  before diving into the ECU, try cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner.

 

after that, look into the chip.  what chip is in there?  they can fail, though it is rare

I will clean the MAF today. part of regular maintenance, but worth a try. The "no blink" is a DME issue.

thanks Flash

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[SILVY968]

woops.

chip is RS Barn for 2006.

How can I test the chip, swap with original?

Does the chip affect the blink test?

Brian

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[flash]

the chip is integral to the ECU functioning at all.  it is not merely tuning.  if the ECU cannot see the ID code of the chip, it can do some pretty odd things.  yes, swap the chip out and see if the OEM chip has the same issues.

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[banditsc]

When my air bag computer was going bad, the light would come on for a few minutes after starting then shut off, it also prevented the blink test from working. Not saying that is your issues, most likely not, but there are a number of things that can cause the blink test to not work.

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[SILVY968]

Banditsc,

Nothing like that happens, just wierd performance things and no blink test. Thanks for the input.

 

I went to Pelican.com to see what a new ECU would cost, worst case.

A new unit is $1,957.25.

 

Called Oklahoma Foreign and they had one that they sent to me for $470.

I would rather have a backup plan then be screwed by Porsche's rediculous prices.

 

I will swap out the RS chip for the stock one, in my old ECU  and see if the blink test comes back. If not I will swap out the ECU, for the new one, and put the RS chip into it.

then see if the blink test works.

 

Flash,

I seem to recall something about the model or serial number of the ECU that was a problem with RS chips.

Here is the info on the new unit:

BOSCH

0 261 203 070

944.618.123.02

TYP 968 MW-02

 

On a white paper label:

265.26

26SA2015

1223000112

 

Thanks Guys,

Brian

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[SILVY968]

Just opened up the new ECU and found a non Porsche chip.

It is:

AutoThorityPerf. Eng.

POR.01.968.100 S/N 10886

1995 CARB EO#D-228-1

 

Translation anyone?

leave in or R&R RS chip???

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[banditsc]

RSBarn is better then that one, but it does give you something to sell to recoup costs.

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[SILVY968]

Thanks Banditsc,

What are the Autothority chips selling for and what are the improvement specs? Dig some digging last night and could not locate specifics.

Brian

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[flash]

lol - wow -see the Chip Shootout article for specs.  i thought everybody had seen that by now.  i wrote it 10 years ago.  

 

market value - maybe $75 tops.

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[SILVY968]

thanks Flash.

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[BeBe]

When I went to replace my chip with an RS Barn chip I purchased, I found an Autothority chip already installed. I definitely prefer the RSB.

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