[blue968]

Hey Xrad,



I think my problem was that I didnt remove the radiator. I can definitly see your plyers working if the radiator was out of the car. I could have saved alot of agrivation just by removing it.

O well you live and learn, It was a pain in the rear w/ the radiator installed, but I got her done.



Have I told you your rims look sweeeeeeeeetttt!!!!!



Thanks

Nelson

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[xrad]

Thanks Nelson, they are for Boxster but fit fine...275 rears







Blue968: this is obviously not right. There might be a one way valve in the fitting (on the h20 pump) which could be stuck....I don't know for sure. But this needs to be fixed. Coolant should drain from the fill tank without the engine running , and fill the block.



Did you replace the h20 pump yourself? or someone else do the work? consider:

1) replacing the plastic connector piece or

2) the pump

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[blue968]

Hey Xrad,



My car has the original water pump and seems to working perfectly. After changing my T-stat it has been riding below 9 O' clock and in traffic hit about 10 o'clock and comes right back down after t-stat opens.



Thanks

Nelson

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[flash]

that is actually a bit high - i would flush the system

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[xrad]

Nelson: mine was at the same range on and off as your until this was lowered with new fan control switch in the radiator. Glad to see it is working !



Like Flash says, just a little too high.

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[xrad]

and the other way to lower temp is to be sure you have a 50/50 antifreeze h20 mix for winter and you could go down to 1/3 antifreeze-rest h20 for summer. I use zerex phosphate free antifreeze.

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[blue968]

HI Guys,



I had flushed the system out completely. I ran the radaitor flush kit for a at least an hour (went for a highway trip) after flushing I then flushed it with clean water 3 times untill it was crystal clear coming out.

Then filled with 50/50 antifreeze with distilled water and added a bottle of water wetter.



What temp does your car ride at???





Nelson

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[xrad]

pretty much about 9:00 all the time

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[SILVY968]

just below the first white line.

Brian

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[flash]

9 on a super hot day - 9:30 if i am really on it - other than that, usually about 8



NEVER 10 - not even on the track in the summer

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[S_Cal968]

+1 on the 8:00 reading, [or right over the lower white line]...

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[flash]

yup - that's exactly where it should be

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[blue968]

Hey Guys,



Im really puzzled with the response on the normal running temp.



It seems to me that my car is doing exactly what it should, you can watch the temp come right back down after the T-stat opens. According to the response's it would seems almost as if your T-stat's dont even open which means the Antifreeze in the radiator wouldnt even circulate???



Just to be clear 9 O' clock is approx. around the middle line on the temp guage.



My car will run around the middle line and if left idling or in traffic it will rise next to the next white line not quite hitting it. Then you can clearly see the T-stat open and the temp comes right back to the middle line.



If im understanding you guys correctly this is not normal??? If my memory serves me right I remember my 92' blue cab temp was the same as well as my 86 944. Thats why I thouht it was normal.



If this isnt normal i will start looking into it.



Thanks

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[flash]

they are opening fine (though because mine is modified, i have issues on cold days)



it's important to remember that where the lines are relative to temperatures is differnt from car to car, but in nominal conditions:



the 8 o'clock line is 176 degrees

the 10 o'clock line is 212

9 o'clock is about 194



the thermostat is beginning to open at 181 or so - that's just above the top of the 8 o'clock line - the car should run at about 8:30, which is about 190 - it should never get to 212 under "normal" conditions



it is VERY common to have enough deposits in the radiator to create enough blockage to shift these temps up, especially if tap water has been used - that's why they say to use phosphate free coolant and di-ionized or distilled water, and why they direct owners to do a complete flushing every 2 years



if you have changed the fan switch to the lower temp unit, temps tend to run lower - the same can be said of the lower thermostat



what you may be seeing is a reaction to fans, not the thermostat - have you checked that out? in stock trim, the low speed should come on a bit after 8, and the high speed somewhere around 10

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[xrad]

depends on your t-stat opening temp. mine is a 180.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' post='64132' date='Dec 11 2008, 06:01 PM']what you may be seeing is a reaction to fans, not the thermostat - have you checked that out? in stock trim, the low speed should come on a bit after 8, and the high speed somewhere around 10[/quote]

I agree. This may be a bit of a long shot, but if by chance you have a low temp fan switch like my car (or if your standard switch is for some odd reason turning the fan on too early), causing the first fan to come on at a temperature much lower than where your thermostat wants to open, it makes it difficult for the water leaving the radiator to get hot enough to fully open the thermostat. My car has a low temp fan switch, and it wasn't until I installed a low temp t-stat (rated at 165 deg, but doesn't open, per the stove top test, till about 175 deg) that I was able to bring the coolant temperature under control. In other words, the relationship between the t-stat opening temp, and the fan switch temp, is important.



Did you test your t-stat by placing it in a pot of water on the stove top before putting it in? The first two I ordered, one from the local Porsche dealer, were bad, opening north of 210 deg! Also, make sure you don't have any debris blocking your radiator.



So, I would say first check the temperature at which your fan turns on. If it's normal, and I know this is a pain, but I would go ahead and pop the thermostat out again and test what temperature it fully opens at. If both of these check out, you should probably next remove the radiator and take it to a shop and have it rodded out. Good luck.

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[flash]

the fans should come on based on the fan switch, not the thermostat



a note on thermostats: a 180 thermostat may be what the spec is, but all thermostats have a range from where they begin to open to when they are fully open - this is even specified in the workshop manual



unlike wht is commonly thought, they are not like switches - to see how they work, heat up a pot of water and coolant until a few degrees before the thermostat setting - then insert the thermostat - then gradually bring up the temp - you will see how it works - if you play around with the coolant temp, you can actually see how it meters the flow - then throw away the pot because it will be toxic



a 180 thermostat should result in the temps i have indicated

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' post='64139' date='Dec 11 2008, 08:04 PM']the fans should come on based on the fan switch, not the thermostat[/quote]

I didn't mean to imply they do. I was just saying, probably not very clearly, that if the thermostat opens at a temperature that's too much higher than that at which the fans turn on, the thermostat will struggle to open properly. Really, this is just another way of saying that the problem with the OP's car may still simply be a bad thermostat, though I agree with you that the fans could just as easily be the problem. Maybe I'm biased by my own experience, having gone through two new thermostats that were miles out of spec, before getting one that works.

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[flash]

lol - i was responding to xrad about the fans - your post came in while i was typing

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[blue968]

HI Guys,



I have to ck to see if my 1st stage fan kicks on, I really dont recall that happening. I think it always go straight to 2 fans kicking on. That could be part of my problem. I will check it out tomorrow and let you know how I make out.



Thanks for all the input.



I have to be honest I am not looking forward to taking the T-stat back out LOL. But i will tell you the radiator is coming out this time.

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