[blue968]

HI Guys,



regarding Juno I agree with the last post you should check thoose resistor pucks, it should work when you jump the brown wire to the other wires. Mine worked fine.



As far as the temp switch not turning on, I think with the water not circulating the switch is not able to get hot enough therefore not telling the fans to turn on. I will test my theory once I chance the the T-stat



I have not had a chance to replace it yet but I will post my results as soon as I complete the job.



Thanks

Nelson

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[Jono]

What am I saying! 12V is on the centre pin (yellow/brown) and when jumped to the brown wire causes the fans to kick in low. Nothing happens if I jump yellow/brown to the red/white wire.



Good idea to check the resistor pucks, I didn't know about them....but where are they? - my battery is in the trunk, a long way from the firewall <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



I too will likely replace the t-stat and summarise my results.

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[banditsc]

Um, one of those Cabs with the battery in the trunk. If they left the resistors in the same spot, questionable on a RHD, they would be on the right side of the inner firewall. Look around for two white round ceramic pucks.

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[blue968]

HI Guys,



I had Success!!!! I drained the antifreeze today and pull the fat hose off and removed the the T-stat (the c-clip was a real pain in butt to get out!!!!) Anyway I replaced the T-stat and filled back up with H20 and radiator flush and ran the car. Everything is working just fine , fans come on as they should and the temp gets up to just over 9 O'clock and comes right back down to about 8 O'clock after the t-stat opens up.



It was very strange because the old t-stat was actually broken, the top prtion of the t-stat was split in half??

has anybody seen that before???



I tried to show a pic of the t-stat but the picture size is to large and I dont know how to compress it???

Can anybody tell me how to do it??? Please keep in mind I have limited comp. experience.



Thanks for all the help

Nelson

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[flash]

the tools are in the "forums 101 section" in the "how to guide"

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[Jono]

Well done blue968, I'll be checking out the hose temps this weekend with a view to replacing the t-stat.

I found the resistor pucks too, inside in driver's side footwell - right above the accelerator pedal. Both state 0.6ohms but measure 1.3 each, maybe wired in series.

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[RS Barn]

Replace the coolant resovoir cap with new stock or Stant 21-25 psi racing @ $25.95

80% of cars we check have caps that don't hold pressure past 8-9 psi Stock is 18 much higher than American cars

Pete

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[xrad]

usually the retaining strap breaks from constant cycling or the valve sticks.



for future reference(scroll down to see the home made tool and how to replace the C clip so that next time it is easy to get to):



http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=4263&hl=

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='RS Barn' post='61765' date='Oct 16 2008, 03:07 PM']Replace the coolant resovoir cap with new stock or Stant 21-25 psi racing @ $25.95

80% of cars we check have caps that don't hold pressure past 8-9 psi Stock is 18 much higher than American cars

Pete[/quote]

Is there a sign that ones' cap isn't holding pressure? I would think the coolant level would slowly drop, wouldn't it? Thanks.

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[blue968]

HI Guys,



Is there a way to check to how much pressure is in the system to verify if my cap is working properly??



As far as the right tool, I did read the post on the homemade plyers and to be honest I dont know how they were able to do it with thoose plyers while t-stat is in the car??? I can understand taking the housing out and being on the bench and using thoose plyers.

Anyway I had bought a new set of Sanp-On snap ring plyers and it has every imaginable snap ring plyers in it, well worth the 250 dollars for the kit It has bailed me out in the past and once again with this job.



the resistor puck do sound like they are wired in series, however if they were I would assume the fans would still work but slower than normal do the the extra resistance.



Nelson

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[blue968]

HI Guys,



Thanks to 968Syncro I was able to download a photo resizer and I can now post some pics.



Here is my car on the operating table and here is the T-stat.

Please share your thoughts on why this T-stat might have broke like this??



Nelson



Oops the T-stat pic didnt upload, here it is.



Nelson



   



   

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[xrad]

did your wife let you have the lift "only" if she could decorate it??? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



t-stat broke because of metal fatigue and poor design

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[Jono]

Not to get off topic but I'm way more impressed to see you have a hoist in your garage!

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[blue968]

HI Guys,



Yea my wife gets a little out of hand w/her decorations but I just let her do her thing and keep her happy HAHA!!!



It was alot cheaper to install a lift rather than a 3 car garage, and it is very usefull.



Whats up with the poor metal on the t-stat??? is this common?? This could have been a very bad day if I didnt catch it in time.



Nelson

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[woods13]

Hey guys,



On the same subject, I've been fighting this problem for about a year. I've replaced the thermostat three times and it works fine for several months then fails. I also have troble bleeding the system and always must fill it with coolant through the tiny bleed hole because my filler tank does not curculate. The water can be pushed out of the engine through the hose by the fuel injection but I dont see how it can return to the engine. The one hose that runs out the bottom of the tank and to a plastic T-shaped fitting on the water pump has NO HOLE in it!!!! so that hose just dead ends there.



Has anyone heard of this before???





Shelby Wood

1992 Amazon Green Coupe

6-sp

front splitter

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[blue968]

HI Woods,





I couldnt imagine trying to fill the whole system throught the bleeder screw??? That must have taken forever.

Anyway, what I did was fill the resevoir untill it stopped taking Antifreeze, Then i released bleed screw and started the car to start circulating and wait untill it comes up to temp to make sure T-stat opens and then close bleeder once all the air is all out. then finally top off resevoir and offcourse always ck your mixture if in a cold climate.



Not sure if this was much help but you can PM me if you would like and we can discuss further or hopefully somebody else will chime in with better advice.



Good Luck

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[xrad]

The line that runs out of the bottom of the tank has no hole??? That is the fill line for the system. Should definately be open.



Do you mean that the lower tank fitting has no hole??? That would be your problem, your system is a dead end loop and is overpressurized. No wonder why you can't bleed it and the t-stat always fails!! Take the hose off the tank, take the tank out of the car, and put a hole in the fitting (if that is what you mean). Sometimes, when they manufacture these tanks, someone forgets to trim off the excess. Is this a new reservoir tank?? Aslo check the other back top fitting, too for the same problem.



Also, when you start the car, let it idle for a while without revving. After about twenty minutes or less(about the time the fans kick on), you should see a trickle of fluid refilling the tank from the top backside fitting. this is the radiator overflow recirculation and will help bleed the system automatically.



fix the hole and put in a new t-stat and your problems should be gone....

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[xrad]

And if you mean the hose with the t-shaped fitting has no hole in it, maybe there is a blockage in the hose. either way, this needs to be fixed and is your problem. There were probably some significant pressures developed in your engine cooling circuit, so much so that it fatigued the brass bridge. Main pressure release is the cap on the coolant fill tank and the little hose leading down into the engine bay is the overflow drain. This circuit has really not been utilized appropriately if the lower hose is blocked.



NOTE: there is a small brass hat into which the stainless rod in your picture is seated. I do not see it in your pics. If you do not have this piece in your possesion, it is still in your engine or radiator.



Basically: when you pour new rad fluid into the empty system through the fill cap on the reservoir, it will almost completely fill the system , and a little air will bleed out the bleeder. run the car and fill the reservoir slowly as needed.



replace the entire t-hose if you need to.

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[woods13]

I'm sorry...



I meant the little plastic L-shaped fitting on the waterpump. The hose runs to waterpump from the tank but then deadends. So the only thing that can happen is for the water to be pushed out of the engine through the hose by the fuel injection and then not be able to get back in. When I changed the waterpump about a year ago it had a 928 part number but fit perfectly??



Thanks



Shelby Wood

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[xrad]

Blue968: the pliers work with the t-stat in the car. They are angled so that they can fit into the housing from the front of the engine (radiator removed-comes out in less than 5 minutes). You do have to rotate the c-clip so that the two holes are on the back side of the opening(closer to the rear of the engine, or in other words, if facing the engine from the front, holes are all the way to your left). C-clip rotates fairly easily with a small awl placed into one hole or the other, and then the clip is spun in a direction which causes it to collapse rather than expand, which makes rotating it much easier.

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