[mefforddk]

I have had a bad hall sensor on my car for a while, so I replaced it this morning. I actually ordered the replacement hall sensor attached it to the sensor plate and soldered the leads to my existing connector. The car started well, but after it warmed up the idle started oscillating between 1000 and 500 rpm. Eventually the car goes will not idle at all. If I hold my foot on the pedal to maintain the 1000rpm idle then the engine doesn't oscillate. I have heard others saying that this behavior was related to a bad hall sensor.



I also have new plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, rotor button. Any ideas?

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[mefforddk]

[quote name='mefforddk' date='Mar 18 2006, 05:07 PM']I have had a bad hall sensor on my car for a while, so I replaced it this morning.  I actually ordered the replacement hall sensor attached it to the sensor plate and soldered the leads to my existing connector.  The car started well, but after it warmed up the idle started oscillating between 1000 and 500 rpm.  Eventually the car goes will not idle at all.  If I hold my foot on the pedal to maintain the 1000rpm idle then the engine doesn't oscillate.  I have heard others saying that this behavior was related to a bad hall sensor. 



I also have new plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, rotor button.  Any ideas?

[right][post="17542"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



my check engine light code came up 1134, anybody know what that indicates?

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='mefforddk' date='Mar 18 2006, 06:17 PM']my check engine light code came up 1134, anybody know what that indicates?

[right][post="17543"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



According to my documentation, 1-1-3-4 indicates Hall signal. I've never replaced a Hall sensor, and I don't know much about them, but I would retrace your steps to make sure all connectors are connected correctly. Also, I believe there are multiple Hall sensors. Did you replace them all? Good luck.

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[Greimann]

Maybe that code is left over from the previous glitch. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see it re-sets. Maybe there is another code that will throw for the latest problem.



Double check all the electrical connectors that were moved during the disassembly.

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[mefforddk]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Mar 18 2006, 08:06 PM']Maybe that code is left over from the previous glitch. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see it re-sets. Maybe there is another code that will throw for the latest problem.



Double check all the electrical connectors that were moved during the disassembly.

[right][post="17551"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Okay that was my next question, how to reset the code. I'll reset and double check all the connections, then give it another look to see what pops up next.

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[sp4149]

Disconnect the sensor at the connector. Timing should be retarded but the idle should not oscillate much. My Cab ran for several weeks with the sensor disconnected, fuel economy sucked and performance was off, but it ran and had no problem accelerating to a little over 100 on a run to Palm Springs. If the problem is only when the sensor is connected, then I suspect a bad sensor or miswiring of the new sensor. The connectors on these are very brittle and easily broken, partially disconnecting the sensor. The other Hall sensor at the rear of the engine uses the same connector, but when it fails the engine will not operate at all. I just replaced one on our 1984 944 last November. It was like throwing a big ON switch when it was replaced, car started instantly and ran smoothly after 3 weeks of crank, no spark, no fuel, no use.

-sp4149

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[mefforddk]

[quote name='sp4149' date='Mar 19 2006, 01:17 PM']Disconnect the sensor at the connector.  Timing should be retarded but the idle should not oscillate much.  My Cab ran for  several weeks with the sensor disconnected, fuel economy sucked and performance was off, but it ran and had no problem accelerating to a little over 100 on a run to Palm Springs.  If the problem is only when the sensor is connected, then I suspect a bad sensor or miswiring of the new sensor.  The connectors on these are very brittle and easily broken, partially disconnecting the sensor.  The other Hall sensor at the rear of the engine uses the same connector, but when it fails the engine will not operate at all.  I just replaced one on our 1984 944 last November.  It was like throwing a big ON switch when it was replaced, car started instantly and ran smoothly after 3 weeks of crank, no spark, no fuel, no use.

-sp4149

[right][post="17587"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

I will give it a try.

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