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Consistent, worsening idle misfire
#1

I've got a 6-spd 93 with a bone-stock motor, electronics, intake and exhaust -

Over the past 2 years, the idle quality has steadily degraded to the point where it misses consistently now. I can see the headlights vibrating when extended, door panels rattle a bit, etc. There is no RPM hunting, and its totally consistent, except for being ever so slightly worse when cold. One cyl perhaps? Anything that loads the engine makes it worse (A/C, electrical load, etc). If I raise the rpms, it improves up to above 1400, where the miss appears to be totally gone. There seems to be an accompanying loss of torque below 2k rpms during normal driving but this could be my imagination. The car runs excellently at higher rpms and throttle settings with no hesitations, and it pulls cleanly to redline. No codes the last time I checked, but will check again. Emissions numbers were very clean, although the problem has worsened since the last smog check 9 months ago.

Recently replaced with no change in symptoms: injectors sent out and cleaned, plugs, cap&rotor, wires, 02 in front of cat, cleaned MAF. Compressions are even, across the board. Coolant usage: over 3 years or so, it appears to have lost a smidge.

Any ideas and thanks for help! If necessary, I would be willing to try a socal shop for diagnosis, but thats a 3+ hr drive for me/ea way.

-Jim
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#2

I think you might be dealing with two different problems.

<b>Problem 1</b>

If you blip the throttle does the car feel like is going to stall? Or when you come to a traffic light, does the throttle dip and then struggle to stabilize?

If so, you probably have a dirty Idle control valve. have a look here for a DIY http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=8560

<b>Problem2</b>

Loss of torque in the lower rev range can be due to the variocam not working. This is often cause by an faulty hall sender that becomes brittle with age and heat from the exhaust manifold. It is quite easy to replace, but it is a pricey part approximately $150
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#3

what were the compression readings, and on how many cycles?
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#4

Thanks, guys -
Prob 1: Not really. Its pretty rock-solid and doesnt hunt or stumble - it just misses, all the time, consistently.
Prob 2: Sounds likely - does the hall-effect sensor control anything besides variocam?

Flash - not sure - I will try to find the paperwork on that. It was consistent and I want to say around 185-195 psi or something but I could be way off on that. I'm used to airplanes where comps are done as a leak-down [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

-Jim
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#5

Do you guys know if there's a way to test the hall-effect sensor or should I just replace it?
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#6

You should see an error code if you have a faulty Hall sender, but it is a part that is notorius for failing due to the exhaust heat.So if you have the cash, I say just replace it. And while you're at it buy the Design 1 Heat shield from RS Barn. That should help the Hall sender and HCV last longer.
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#7

It might actually be your temperature sensor causing your rough idle. But again, you should get an error code for this. This is quite a cheap part as well, I replaced mine as a precaution.
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#8

I was thinking Cap/rotor and or plug wires.

Jay
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#9

Do a blink code test.
If I had to guess, I'd start with the temp sensor and hall sensor.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
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#10

I had a rough idle issue that was solved by running two tanks of fuel injector cleaner through the engine. Get one that cost $8 to $10, such as red line, or you will just get garbage.
Brian
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#11

Come on people...he stated injectors sent out for cleaning and new rotor, plugs and wires.

Jim, do you know how to do a blink test and the codes? You can search, it is on the site somewhere.
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#12

Ryan,

Sorry.
Brian
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#13

^^^^
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

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#14

Jim,
if all else fails and you're looking for a shop, consider Schneider Autohaus in Santa Barbara. only 2 hours away and they do great work. no affiliation, just a happy customer.
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