[ds968]

Yeah I made sure the new ones are the " 07 " , I iust can't figure out the old ones ; they are German and all that but the number on them as noted above ends neither in 07 or 04 .. Nor does it start with 951 . They looked to be in pretty damn good shape - obviously looks can be deceiving .

Did not do the job myself so can't comment on the degree of difficulty, and since my mechanic still has the car to fix a few more things I did not see the mounts install labor charge details yet.

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[Bulti]

If the PET number is not on there, they are most likely fake and wouldn't have worked right from day one. Good thing they are out of your car. My left nut if the cheap eBay ones aren't copies too.


The job isn't that hard, you can replace them without removing the crossmember. I wouldn't recommend it doing it by yourself, because the clearance is tight an someone would need to help a bit with a pry bar while you insert the new mounts. A car lift and engine support would make your life a lot easier.

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[MLB]

I replaced mine in the garage but I did have to support the engine from above and remove the crossmember. Still, it was a opportunity to rebuild the front struts at the same time, repack wheelbearings, and replace all the bushings for the suspension not to mention cleaning up the oily mess left by a negligent PO...

Oh and of course most important was changing the oil pan gasket, which helped me discover what was REALLY the last oil leak (back end of upper BS)!


Bulti, the ebay ones came up with a search for The correct part number, but the picture showed silver metal rather than the yellow titanium nitride coated version from Porsche. So I think that's probably one giveaway that they are the cheap knockoffs

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[ds968]

The metal of the old ones which came out of my car was yellow, so kinda' weird considering the part number ..

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[Bulti]

Maybe there are yellow knockoffs too. in any case, when it comes to motor mounts, without the 'P' in a triangle I don't trust it.

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[ds968]

I have to preface this by saying that my mechanic has a tendency to complain about any given job, blaming Porsche for design which is entirely repair-unfriendly ..and everything seems to require a monumental effort as far as he is concerned ( perhaps this is his way of justifying more hours than truly required for any given job ) and if it would not do everything as perfectly as he has for the 30 years he has worked on all my Porsches and Merecedeses I might be skeptical enough about all these complaints to look elsewhere .. That said, here is what he told me was required as part of the motor mounts : the control arms had to be dropped , the cross member had to be dropped, the steering rack had to be moved aside, and even with all that out of the way and engine lifted as far as it went he still had to struggle to get the mounts in there , supposedly the bottom bolt is too long and it does not give enough space to easily fit them in, yada, yada, yada.. So a complete PITA job according to him, if you're planning to do this on your own ( as opposed to having another person there to help perhaps ? ) . Oh, and don't forget to grease the top of the mount when installing , supposedly helps with something or another but I forgot what specifically , because while listening to that I was still thinking of all the things that he had to disassemble to do this. Ugh, not looking forward to the timing belt change with the supercharger in place. I can just hear the rant now about having to take the entire engine in pieces out of the car and putting it back.. $ 5,000 of labor later, I may as well not replace the belts until they bust and then get a new head / valves job for the same damn cost , LOL.

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[MLB]

Yep i had to do all the stuff he mentioned. But its all part of my therapy regimen to cure laziness. Unfortunately, my success also increases my tight-wad-iness! :0)

Is that a word?

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[flash]

hmmm - i changed my motor mounts without having to do any of that nonsense.  the one on the driver side took 10 minutes.  the one on the passenger side was more difficult, but i did it in a little over 2 hours.

 

if you drop the cross member, you have to get an alignment again.  it would be blind luck if you did it, and didn't mess up the caster setting.

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[MLB]

10 minutes, huh? And not as WYIT during some other work? Unbolt exhaust (and intake?) and lift the engine from above? Please enlighten...

I dropped CM to change OPG. Yes had alignment. This car just keeps getting better with everything i work on :0)

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[flash]

driver side.  no exhaust there.  intake did not need to move.  really pretty easy.

 

passenger side was a different story, and that one was a bugger.  got it though.

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[MLB]

Ok well that explained...let's see...nothing.

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[JWahlsten]

How can you get to the lower bolt on the mount without removing or at least moving the control arms?  I don't see how it's possible.

 

I did mine when the intake was off, so it wasn't a hateful job.  I don't think I would relish the job if it were the only thing I was doing...  I didn't need to touch the crossmember though.

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[Bulti]

When I did it a few weeks ago there was indeed no need to touch the control arms. In short it went like this:


-car on lift

-support engine from the top

-diconnect sway bar to chassis bolts and move it out of the way

-loosen and remove top mount nuts

-make sure the engine is lifted a bit by the engine support

-loosen a cross member bolt and extract it, then screw it back in again a few turns. repeat 4 times.

-loosen and remove the bottom motor mount nuts

-extract the driver side mount and install the new one

-repeat for the driver side. in my case this one was a bit more difficult, but some extra leverage with a tire iron helped a lot. the engine was raised as much it could without hitting something

-lower the engine and make sure it sits correctly on the mounts, again some help of a pry bar would do the trick

-bolt everything back together and pat yourself and your friend on the back

-repeat everything after 6 months if you bought knockoffs


All from memory, hopefully I didn't forget anything :-)

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[JWahlsten]

Sounds pretty comprehensive to me, Philippe. I don't have a lift and for me access to those bottom nuts is not fun... I put in semi-solid mounts and am tempted to get Porsche factory mounts to install when I do the rod bearings in the next couple of weeks.

 

Of course, I have lower chassis brace and sway bar bracing to contend with as well. So, I had to get those out of the way.  I was changing the control arms, and didn't invest any time trying to figure out a way to loosen the nuts with them installed.

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[Bulti]

Being able to put the car on a lift is definitely a game changer. I wouldn't miss it for the world anymore. I got me one of those MaxJax lifts and they are worth every penny.


Good luck with the bearings and don't forget the 'while-you're-in-theres' ;-)

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[JWahlsten]

Those while you're in there things will get you every time.  Yeah, I'll be taking a close look at the oil pickup tube, and likely adding the brace as my car sees some track time.

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[ds968]

In terms of the necessity of a wheel alignment after moving all those suspension components out of the way and back, my mechanic said that he was extremely careful not to affect the alignment setting and marked everything before syarting the job , so the caster blocks and anything else which may have moved at all would be exactly in the same spots after everything was done...within no more than a millimeter of where they were before. So he thinks it's very unlikely I would need an alignment but it's not entirely out of the realm of possibility either, so I guess I'll have to pay close attention while driving in the next couple of days for any pull ?

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[flash]

marking does not get it "dead nuts" no matter how hard you try.  is it close? probably.  on these cars, especially when you start tightening up the suspension, when you adjust caster, a couple of tenths of a millimeter can be the difference between the car drifting 4 feet over 1/10 mile and holding straight for 5 miles.  i don't know of any way to mark that and get it perfect.  i'm pretty picky about drift and pull.  historically it has been the biggest pain in the butt on these alignments.

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[ds968]

motor mounts labor :  6 hrs  ( $ 900 )   He said he actually spent more than 6 hrs... 

power steering hose labor :  1 hr  ( $ 150 )  - but the power steering hose from the local Porsche dealer was $ 300 !  and that's at my mechanic's discounted purchase price.. WTF, it's only a HOSE !   I think Porsche is "hosing" us  :glare: 

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[Waylander]

6 HOURS!!!

 

was he down the local bar for most of that, I did mine in an small lock up garage with no main lights and no lift, in just over 2 hours, both sides!

 

come to think about it I did the belts and rollers and water pump in just over 6 hours..........

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