[Krister]

Seems like a good idea to change the engine mounts.

My has 100 000 miles on the odo.



I remember from my pre -89 911s a nice upgrade is the convertible engine mounts wich still was rubber, but a little harder.

Making it stiffer but still streetable.



Is there any similar upgrade option for the 968 or is it stock or solid that are the options.

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[flash]

the only ones out there that i have seen sucked

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[Bulti]

My car has been having trouble with vibrations, only at idle. The moment I step on the gas, they are gone. Turning on the A/C makes it worse. Idle is fine, couldn't find no vacuum leaks.


I replaced the mounts in june '14 (see earlier post in this thread). The new mounts were not from the dealer, but not really cheap ones either.


Somehow the chassis brace rubs the exhaust, it would make some noise, that's why I noticed it. My first thought was: ok, maybe an engine mount already bad? Maybe, but they both measure the same as far as I can tell, about 62 or 63 mm. Clark's says less than 60 mm is swapping time.


The strange thing is, measured from the strut tower brace center link to the vanity cover is 7 mm... Just like described in the installation instructions! How can the exhaust get too low without the top of the engine following?


Can I have put the exhaust on (when getting the O2 sensor out) the wrong way so it hangs low? At the manifold?


Any ideas are very much appreciated...

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[flash]

clark's is wrong.  they do stuff like this all the time.  they apply 944 stuff to the 968, and it doesn't always work.  62 installed or 65 uninstalled is the minimum for a 968.

 

as for the fuel rail cover, depending on where you have the cover in the slots, it can raise or lower the cover relative to the brace.  

 

also, if you put in any preload, you can cause the brace to bow, and depending on which direction you turned the adjuster, it could go up or down.

 

last but not least, being a 92, the intake manifold is slightly different where the fuel rail cover mounts, and if you have the wrong spacer in there, it can push the cover upward

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[Bulti]

The center link moved from 1 cm with no tension to 7 mm with the adjuster turned exactly one turn towards the rear. Every time I removed the center link and vanity cover it behaves exactly like that (about 3 or 4 times so far when removing the plugs). So I have my doubts that I can move the vanity cover relative to the link. The (new) rubber dampers make sure of that.


Measuring the mounts with a piece of wire isn't exactly exact science... Is there any other way I can measure and know for sure the engine has come down a bit? Would the exhaust vs the lower brace offer any certainty? I had to remove the entire exhaust and maybe it can be adjusted a bit? It tried to raise it a bit but with little success. I have to take if off as a whole too, the bolts connecting the pieces are too far gone.

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[Bulti]

Is it supposed to look like this when mounted?! The 'black hat' is touching the base part of the mount...



   

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[Waylander]

Erm no!

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[Bulti]

So just to be clear: I have to get me some new OEM ones pronto and make an angry phonecall to the supplier of these?

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[flash]

the aftermarket mounts generally only last about 2 years.  i'd say you are about on par there.  i have no idea what is different about them, as they look the same side by side, but they are apparently different somehow.

 

yes - new mounts required

 

that is definitely going to push the engine closer to your strut brace, so you will need to look into the fuel rail cover orientation.  moving it slightly left or right does alter the height, usually about 3mm.

 

i need to issue a tech note on the strut brace.  the only reason i put any preload on it was to create a tendency for the brace to move upward when it flexed, rather than downward.  when you turn the adjuster one way, it makes the brace flex up, and the other makes it flex down.

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[ds968]

the aftermarket mounts generally only last about 2 years.  i'd say you are about on par there.  i have no idea what is different about them, as they look the same side by side, but they are apparently different somehow .

I understand this is also the case with ( even the OE - dealer issued ) manual vs tip mounts . They are supposedly different composition, although side by side they look and feel identical . Different part number ( the last few digits ) .

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[Bulti]

Less than 9000 km or 5600 miles and about 15 months. That's just absurd! I mean, when you buy a cheap knock-off you can expect a lesser lifespan, or lesser dampening qualities or whatever, but this? And these weren't the cheapest ones at all. I wonder how long it takes before the ones go that you can have for USD 70/pair? 3 days? A week?


When I get them out I will post a pic. I will also try and find out what brand they were. It is (once again) proven that if they do not come in a box that says 'Porsche': send them back.


I checked the invoice with all the stuff I ordered at the time, and it says "IMI" right next to the part number. I guess I missed that. D'oh!

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[biosurfer1]

How do you go about checking the motor mounts if you don't have a strut brace? I have the exact same symptoms you have, and mine were replaced with OEM less than 3 years/10k mile ago.

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[Bulti]

The strutbrace itself is clearly not a good way to be sure they're ok, but you can get a pretty good idea with just a piece of wire. Just fold it into a "U" shape with about 6,3 cm in between the two ends. If the mounts' upper surface and base fit between them, they have collapsed. Mine measure less than 6 cm.


This comes from the 944 manual, but the idea is the same:


   

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[Bulti]

Just installed new OE motor mounts: the difference is staggering. My former motor mounts (aftermarket) made the car shake from dayone I installed them. They have probably never been able to resist the weight of the engine. I can litterally squeeze them with my bare hands!


Here's a picture of an original one: if you think of using mounts without the "P" logo and part number: throw them away or send them back where they came from.


   

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[Bulti]

I opened up one of the collapsed, imitation ones. They are just hollow inside! The OE ones have a fluid inside them to deal with vibrations but also to deal with the weight of the engine. I can't imagine the crappy ones doing their job right, not even for a single day.


   

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[Waylander]

They are total rubbish, no wonder real ones cost so much, but who makes them I bet Porsche don't make them....


I have read somewhere that Corteco make the genuine ones?

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[Tahoe968]

Lucky for me, Flash insisted I go with the real one's too - and thanks to Ryker having an extra set - I was able to get some economically; otherwise I too might have ended up going with the "less expensive" option on this item. Glad I didn't; but initially I would have been hard pressed to justify the difference in cost... and then I saw your pics : /  

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[ds968]

So I had the motor mounts replaced ( the previous ones were only about 3 years old and less than 30 K miles on them ) and there is a day and night difference . The numbers printed on the old ones a re as follows : 4143750004 T 4082 ( could be 4062 ) . Any idea if those were the 968 six speed mounts instead of the tiptronic mounts ?

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[MLB]

DS, i cant comment on that part #, sorry, but I just reviewed this entire thread and didnt see the porsche part number in the text, only in Bulti's pic above. So for posterity, the porsche part for manual trans is "hydrolager" 951 375 042 04

Looks like automatic trans part no ends with 07

--michael

Wow, seem to be on german ebay for $50 each!?

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[MCL968]

Anyone want to comment on the difficulty of the job? I am pretty sure that mine are in need of replacement.

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