[968 Cab]

Need to remove the cam cover to clean it up - the 2 thick fuel lines at the rear resting pretty close to the cam cover - do they need to be moved to get the cam cover off the motor?



Anything else other than the ignition wire cover and plug wires need to be removed?



Anything to watch out for? crud from the plug recesses falling into the engine etc?



Thanks!

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[Anchorman]

If you go to http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=7, it tells you all you need to know - plus doing the Variocam inspection, which you should do while you have the cover off.

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[968 Cab]

[quote name='Anchorman' date='Jul 4 2005, 05:27 AM']If you go to http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=7, it tells you all you need to know - plus doing the Variocam inspection, which you should do while you have the cover off.

[right][post="6828"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Fantastic article! Thanks for the heads up - I used "search" and did not find anything before.



Have a great 4th! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[BruceWard]

Be very careful with the bolts that hold the cover on. Many people have broken them.



I suggest you follow this procedure when removing them http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/bolt-01.htm and then use the best torque wrench you can get your hands on when reinstalling.



Also you will need two sets of metric wrenches to open the fuel lines.

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[NeedPorscheSpeed]

A word of caution: be very careful when you remove the fuel rails, being sure to apply counter-torque. I applied counter-torque, but when the wrench slipped, I cracked my fuel rail... Just thought I would give you the heads-up. Good luck, and you also have a great 4th! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[968 Cab]

Thanks Bruce & Jonathan - this is EXACTLY the info I needed - the warnings! I have a Hazet calibrated torque wrench so that is not a problem, but I dont like the idea of shearing off one of those bolts!



That's a great idea to "wake up" the allen head bolts - thanks!

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[Silver BLT]

While I was doing research on rebuilding the brake calipers on our cars I came across an Idea I had not heard of before, and it works! Get a butane pencil torch, heat up the bolt give it a smack with a punch or drift to "wake it up" and then TIGHTEN it just a "smige", or at least exert torque in the clockwise direction. That was the direction the threads were last headed. Then loosen it. Total guess here folks, but it would make sense <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> that the "micro" fragments of metal on threads tend to seat in the same direction from being screwed in, perhaps this is like tiny barbs all pointing the same direction and not wanting to reverse direction? Just a theory.

Silver BLT

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[Anchorman]

Hey, Silver, are you saying that you used the butane torch on the bolts that hold the plate in place in the caliper, and it worked? That would solve an issue that's been holding up my caliper rebuild project. (Well, that's not the only thing that's been slowing me down, but if I know how to do this part, I might get restimulated.)

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[BruceWard]

Jim, I have heard of two methods of removing the bolts in that plate on the caliper. One is heating the bolts and I believe Russtech did this successfully. The other is to weld bolt heads onto the existing allen hean bolts.



Heat might be helpful on the cam cover bolts, but there is very little force needed to remove them as they are only torqued to 7 foot pounds and will break with a little more force. Personally I think the bolts are too pretty to torch and would try it without the heat.



I used a 9" extension which I was very careful to keep straight and grasped the ratchet around the head instead of the end reducing the force I would place on the bolt. If the bolt did not come free easily I repeated the waking procedure.

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[Anchorman]

Thanks, Bruce. I've had the cam cover bolts out twice (for Variocam inspections) so I don't expect problems there. I had no way of doing the "weld nuts" in the caliper, so I'll try the torch method.

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