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Engine Assembly - Loctite
#1

The workshop manual dictates the use of Loctite 270 on many fasteners in the engine. Fastenal today told me that Loctite told them 270 is no longer available. The recommendation was to use Loctite 263, which I ordered.



I don't know if it makes a lot of difference, but for follow the book purists I thought I'd post this.
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#2

What's the difference between loctite 270 & 271? I had the same problemt, but a quick internet search suggested 271 was the replacement.



Edit: I should have searched more

Loctite 263 is oil resistant and specifically recommended as a replacement by the manufacturer

http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/produ...000001F4DD



Not sure about 271..

http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/produ...0000000HWJ
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-Matt

1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)

1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)

2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)

 
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#3

Both 270, and Loctite's recommended replacement can be removed (in most cases) with just hand tools. If memory serves, 271 almost always requires the use of heat to remove, as it is considered a permanent threadlocker. The TDS's show this difference if you look closely. It's under "Directions for Use: Disassembly"



.pdf Loctite 270 TDS.pdf Size: 70.91 KB  Downloads: 4


.pdf Loctite 263 TDS.pdf Size: 70.22 KB  Downloads: 3
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'92 Midnight Blue 968 Coupe

'94 ProbeGT, Eaton SC@9psi, Quaife, TecGT ECU, 300+HP, body sold, parting out

'98 3000GT VR-4, 400+HP AWD beast, didn't fit w/race helmet, Sold

'93 Bone Stock MX-6 Sold (in '05) sadly to the crusher in 2010

'61 Triumph TR-3, White with red leather interior; My First Car
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