[MLB]

Question about placing Dynamat inside the doors of the cab:

I plan to attach it to the outer sheet metal of the door and not just on the inside between the vapor barrier and the door card.

But there is a metal "crash bar" the runs horizontally across the center of the door and above that is a 1/16th inch thick fiber board material stuck to the sheet-metal which appears to be for sound deadening.so I could easily place dynamat across the lower half of the door after I clean surface but should I remove the fiber board above and then dynamat the whole door behind the crash bar? Thanks

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[flash]

i would remove the fiber board so the dynamat will stick

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[MLB]

Yeah, I'll try that tonite, thanks

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[bombfactory]

When I went to dynamat my door skins, my fiber boards had come unstuck and were sitting in a heap at the bottom of the doors! Porsche quality adhesive...

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[MLB]

Hey dont complain about porsche quality adhesive! Im still waiting for the part-tough and part-gooey carpet glue "gunk" to wear away off my skin. And thats after washing hands and arms in mineral spirits! (Shudder...nightmares)

;0)

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[flash]

yeah - let's see - for something that is held down by the seats, gravity, and all of the interior trim, let's use the nastiest gooiest crap we can find.  but, for something that hangs on a vertical piece of untreated sheet metal, is exposed to changing humidity and heat, as well as repeated slamming and vibration, and is made of cardboard, let's just tack some lightweight stuff on there that pops loose if you sneeze..

 

makes sense to me

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[MLB]

Interesting, the fiberboards in my doors are still held on tight, in fact im wondering how difficult it will be to remove them tonite. Maybe the Cali climate is extra hard on the glue? My car has been in the midwest almost its whole life.

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[apex]

Mine also were solidly fixed on both doors so I just left well enough alone and dynamatted everywhere else.

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[Bulti]

Y'all got fiberboards in your doors?  IIRC, in mine there is just a plastic foil to keep moisture out.

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[MLB]

Maybe the fiberboard piece is only for cabs, or maybe just not in ROW cars? Its in the top half of the door, above what i call the "crash bar" reinforcement. Mine measured 5.5 x 33 inches (14 x 84 cm), about 1/16 inch thick (1.5 mm), and weighed 222g.

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[williamoss]

does a ball park price of around $1200 to replace all the speakers 2 tweeters. two 4 inch midrange, 4 4x6 speakers new amp sound high low or about right. I have a coupe and stopped at a Car Toys store without my 968 and that was the ball park number they threw at me. What do you think?

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[flash]

no deck?  sounds outrageous.

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[Bulti]

Maybe the fiberboard piece is only for cabs, or maybe just not in ROW cars? Its in the top half of the door, above what i call the "crash bar" reinforcement. Mine measured 5.5 x 33 inches (14 x 84 cm), about 1/16 inch thick (1.5 mm), and weighed 222g.

Now that's description I can work with, lol! Could be a cab thing yes, I should check the PET.

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[williamoss]

I just went thru all the posts on stereo and found one mentioning an antennae boost. What is that part? where is it located? is it on both coupe and cabs? Any info would be appreciated.

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[apex]

William - the "antenna booster" is something I just replaced - I had crappy FM reception AND the rubber grommet up top (for a coupe) had deteriorated. The "booster" is actually the entire antenna assembly. I guess it has electronics inside. Didn't help my FM much but LOOKS great. :-)

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[MLB]

OK, finally got all the new speakers installed and wired in (CDT CL-51 separates up front, some brand (made in china sticker on box) called Soundstream 4x6 for the rears that claims to be 100W RMS. Im skeptical but they sound decent). All speakers fit without modification to the car, which was a big relief to me. The crossover for the CDTs is huge, but it fit in the black plastic door speaker frame, cheesily 'glued' in place with some expanding foam, but no other easy way to secure it in place. I removed the "mids' that were in the doors, don't need em anymore and the foam rubber cone surround was trashed, disintegrating. Had to use a 1.5 inch hole saw to remove the custom molded high mount tweeter housing innards after carefully removing the tweeter, but then it was easy to glue in the new tweeter and use the OEM housing. theThe amp is great, but now I want to add subwoofers using a bridged mode that basically gets me 6 channels out of a 4 channel amp. But where to put even smallish woofers in the cab? I will be looking close at woofers from CDT, but not excited about making custom enclosures that take up half the trunk...

 

Dynamat install went well and I can't wait to drive the car and hear if road noise is also squelched much. Maybe tomorrow. The Dynamat kit #10435 seems perfect for this car and contains four 1x3 foot sheets. Took exactly one sheet per door, cut lengthwise in a 7 inch and a 5 inch strip, one below and one above the crash bar inside the door. Perfect! The other 2 sheets were meticulously dissected and placed around the trunk and in the rear quarters. Its like tin drum back there! every surface you tap just reverberates and echoes, yikes! One tricky thing about Dynamat is that even though its pretty flexible its VERY sticky if it so much as touches any surface, and with a thick foil back that will crease and be difficult to get perfectly flat again, altho that probably matters little functionally. But the paper backing is also real thick and difficult to remove when you're working inside the door with sharp edges everywhere. Score the backing paper into strips or otherwise smaller pieces beforehand and peel up easy-to-reach tabs that you can pull out once you get the piece generally where you want it. Then I used a couple short pieces of 1/2 to 1 inch wood dowel to smooth out the  piece and get max adhesion with no air pockets. I think it would be hard to reach in the door with the company's roller which has a handle, so I did not buy that.

 

Finally, I have leftover flush and fisheye mounts for the 1" tweeter if anybody wants em. These were parts that came with the CL-51 two component kit.

Thanks for all the input!

--Michael

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