[flash]

the oxygen regulation issue is almost certainly your ICV, which we know to be faulty.

 

intermittent faults do not store in memory.  every time you turn off the key, it goes away.  if you have a wonky ignition switch, that "resets" itself when it wigs out, you will lose those codes.

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[ds968]

I think there are enough things on the list now to justify taking the car in to my mechanic for a few days ...besides, the holidays are just around the corner and he's probably expecting to make his year-end bonus . Annually around this time it seems it's my duty to enrich the lives of Porsche mechanics...and parts suppliers .

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[flash]

lol - don't feel bad.  i just found out that an oil change on my car is $620

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[williamoss]

lol - don't feel bad.  i just found out that an oil change on my car is $620

which car is that the 911 Targa? At least when you found out I hope the roof was open so your exploding head did not stain the inside.

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[Bulti]

Lol, does that include the filter and labour?

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[ds968]

Less than the oil change for a Vanquish ( $ 2,500 ). Talk about a lube job !!

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[Bulti]

Is there no decency?

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[alausch]

I've been reading these posts, and I sure hope it's the ignition switch. So, I get an intermittent "Check Engine" light. However, sometimes it stays on. A couple of times, I've checked and there were no codes. More often, it will read the exact same codes every time. "Hall Signal" and "Knock Sensor 1." I've changed both sensors (cam posit/knock 1), and I'm still getting a light with the exact same codes. They're brand new sensors and the engine seems to be running wonderfully. No issues that I can tell with timing, idling, etc. I'm at a loss here and very frustrated. So recommend changing the ignition switch?

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[Waylander]

I would change the O2 sensor first, as the light is all about emissions, according to the manual they are only good for 60k miles


But I know of plenty of 968s that have never changed them, the ECL check light is a USA only thing

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[ds968]

I'm not saying that it's absolutely impossible the CEL can be intermittently or otherwise staying on be triggered by a faulty ignition switch, but I think it's highly improbable and 95 % of the time it's some emissions system related component which will do that . From something as simple as a gas cap, O2 sensor, carbon canister, EGR valve ( no idea if our cars has the last two items ) and so on. I also heard knock sensors will do that but the fault codes using a blink check should reveal that problem, as should a bad O2 sensor or secondary air system issue, although he changed the knock sensors so that can't be it .

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[Waylander]

EGR No

Carbon canister Yes


I have seen the results of a blocked carbon canister, sucked the fuel tank flat!

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[ds968]

Is EVAP same as EGR ? I remember a wonky EVAP purge valve I think it was called was causing similar CEL symptoms in my MBZ., sometimes flickering , sometimes intermittent throughout the day, sometimes stayed on for several days and then off again formats or weeks and.. repeat the above pattern . In the MBZ that valve was very easy to change . BTW, the OBD did not show that as a fault code, it pointed to a fuel leak tank fill sensor , but an experienced MbZ mechanic diagnosed the valve culprit just based on having seen that happen in other MBZs. Again don't know if it's the same set up as the 968 but the symptoms were very similar to what " alausch " described .

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[Waylander]

Yes the 968 has a fuel vapour system, 

 

the Carbon tank is in the drivers side wing well (USA Cars)  they are about 10-11 inches high and 4 inches in diameter, with pipes top and bottom.

 

the fuel vapour soaks into the carbon granules over time and during running when the engine temp and running conditions are right the valve wrapped in foam and tucked down the side of the Brake Servo opens to let the fuel vapour be burnt by the engine.

 

we have had a few instances where the inside of the canister falls to bits, its a stack of (mesh/foam/mesh/carbon/mesh/foam/mesh) over the years the foam biodegrades and the mesh rusts away and the granules make a bid for freedom,

 

the only problem with this is that the breather pipe from the tank connects to the bottom of the canister, and as the fuel level drops it should allow a little air back in.

 

when the pipe gets full of powdered granules it creates an air lock situation, the tank cant breathe, the fuel pump is very powerful and sucks the tank flat...

 

when removing your gas tank cap you should not have any pressure positive or negative if its all working right

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[alausch]

Thanks for your input, I'm running codes now...ok 34 Hall signal is up again. I'm getting good readings for the O2 Sensor, I really don't think that's the case. Everytime I start up the engine it immediately throws the Hall code. I changed the cam posit sensor. I'm starting to worry that this is something more nefarious. I just don't know. If the timing was off that would throw the signal, right? But if we assume the sensor is good, then what else could trigger the signal???? Engine is purring perfectly, I just don't know. Ughhhhhh

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[MCL968]

Plugs on the two sensors are known to be flaky. I would look there for connection issues, especially in an area where there is salt in the air. And, when all else fails, check and clean all of your grounding points.

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[alausch]

Good idea, I'll use some plug/connector cleaner and check the grounds.

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[Waylander]

The hall sensor plugs are called junior timer plugs, they can be bought from eBay and Porsche direct


I think the plug is on the cars loom and the socket is the hall sensor, changing the sensor is a pain as you have to take the cam cover off and that involves all new gaskets


The cost of the sensor is crazy at $200, I rebuild them for owners over here, a siemens HK101 Hall effect sensor is £13 off the bay, and a couple of pop rivets, and a new socket, shielded cable, all in about $35

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[alausch]

Understood, but I've replaced the hall sensor with a brand new Bosch unit. I had to do it on my cabrio as well about a year ago. Same code, but it fixed the problem. This is for my coupe, and while I was in there I also replaced the valve cover gasket/Variocam paper gasket/spark plug seals/ and painted the cover.

 

So you can replace that little plug on the wiring harness itself without running a whole new harness? It's essentially the beginning of the harness itself. Man, I hate electric gremlins. What's your recommendation? Can I test the hall sensor plug to determine if it's faulty?

 

I'll clean everything like I said before/run codes again and we'll see. I have a gut feeling that won't fix it.

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[Waylander]

Hi

 

I had the same issues with codes for the hall sensor,

 

and yes you can replace the socket on the loom, as you would not want to buy a new engine loom @$1200.

 

take a look here you should be able to find just about any plug or socket you need

 

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/advanc...=3&ptype=2

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[alausch]

Booster, Thanks for all your suggestions. I just cleaned the main harness plug near the fuse box, which was actually a little corroded. Cleaned the socket and cam sensor plug. Still sending a code. #34 Hall Signal. Now, you suggest actually changing the socket on the harness? I will order a three pin kit from the website you suggested. Thanks again. I'm running out of time today, but I was thinking of also changing out the cam sensor from my cabrio putting it in the coupe. I know that one is good.

 

We'll see.  

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