[968workaholic]

Both key ways should be straight up. The bottom one will have to be off to the left slightly to lone up the marks, but close to being straight up.

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[flash]

lol - thanks for the correction - yeah - i always have to go back and check - my memory is not what it used to be sometimes, and i don't do this one every day



so, the marks are 12 and 6:30, but the keyways are both 12

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[968workaholic]

Yup exactly. It is a little confusing with the bottom one because the allignment mark is on the bottom. But as long as both key ways are facing up when you put the gear on, there won't be any problems.

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[Eric_K]

Clarks garage has a good page explaining it.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-08.htm

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks, this is very useful information for someone like me, who is planning to do the belt replacement soon.

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[Vedder]

I already order the Spanner to remove the BS plate, so that i can have a look, although refering back to the pics i posted, the Cam Sprocket pic looks like its out of line by a tooth, but i line up the engine to TDC refering to middle mark ( I I I ) in the round hole of the Flywheel cover. did i do it wrong?

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[edm]

Success, I was watching my mechanic open up the cover for the belts and we found the belt to be extremely loose and one of the roller went bad. All happy again. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[PorscheDude]

Glad to hear you worked it out. Maybe next time you can DIY.

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[Dirk]

Hi all, it's been a while I was here and it's nice to see there's still such an interrest in this great car. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
Now I need advice.

This month my '93 CS has received a rebuild exchange engine at 314,000 kms (192,000 mi), the reason being wear of the Variocam sprockets on the camshafts.
I figured with this mileage a rebuild would be good investment.

But the engine is vibrating at certain revs, there's a first small peak around 2000 rpm then gradually gets worse from ~3100 onward and has a real peak at about 4200 rpm.

Years ago I had a problem with slipped balance shafts

Because of back problems I have all work done in a shop and had this problem first checked out at the supplier of the engine, a mechanic found one shaft out by four teeth and corrected it.
When I drove away I noticed things were not right but as I had that day no more time I had things checked again a few days later at the place that put in the 'new' engine.
They found the shafts were 180 degrees out with the Top Dead Center of Cylinder 1 [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img]...

Again I was not really happy with the test run but had no further time.

Driving around The Netherlands at the legal speed of 120 kms/h means around running at 3100 rpm and the problem is not a real issue.
But last week I went to Denmark and only half an hour at around 5000 rpm onto the German Autobahn resulted in a loud noise.
The belt had come off the power steering pump.

I continued at ~3500 rpm to Denmark where a shop discovered the tensioning device of the pump had broken.
This was fixed and I drove home at a 'safe' speed/revs.

The story of the two ways to fit the sprockets on the balance shafts is new to me so that'll be checked next!
Regretfully I can't access the 3 pictures in vedders post.

But a question remains, during the fitting of the rebuild engine it was found the old fly wheel needed smoothing of the clutch face and now I wonder if a potential small imbalance might cause this kind of vibration?

Regards, Dirk

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[flash]

you should be able to see them now - you had not bumped your level back up yet since the software upgrade - i did it manually for you

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[Dirk]

Thanks for the help Flash!

In the mean time the vibration problem has become a minor issue, yesterday afternoon when I started and pulled out of the office parking lot the low oil pressure light came on. I checked the level which was fine and started again, still a red light and zero pressure on the gauge.

I checked the wire on the pressure sender, again fine.
At the next start all red lights came on and I called the automobile club.

It seems the oil pump has quit, only some 2000 kms after the engine was rebuild.
And after running it for a total of probably less then 60 seconds I'm also worried about the bearings.

So this morning it was picked up to be taken to the chap the build the engine and for the foreseeable future I'll take the bus...

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[flash]

wow - that sucks - you may have gotten lucky though - i've seen it happen - let us know how it goes when he drops the pan

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[Dirk]

The car is finally ready to be picked up, so tomorrow a 5 hrs. bus and train journey.

And I don't like what I'm told on the phone.
The engine was so badly damaged, bearings, cylinders, it had to be replaced again. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]

The shop thinks the mechanical failures were due to a plugging of the cooling system and are pointing to the shop that put the engine in my car.
I find this hard to believe, I was told there was a new water pump installed and I drove it for some 2000 kms. before the oil pressure failure, during that time I never saw a cooling issue.
Plus I can't really see how a cooling deficiency could cause the oil pump to suddenly fail.
The shop then implied maybe the cooling system of the block wasn't properly bled, hey I drove it on some long runs (2x 600 kms), regularly checked al levels and never had temperature issues.

The man claims they've never before had such a problem and are going to change their warranty policy because of this one.

But there was the issue of vibration that ultimately broke the power steering pump's support, that's a subject they have yet to explain.

Two weeks ago the shop owner did a longer test run with the car and had to have it towed back because (they thought/think) the after market alarm failed and disabled the fuel pump.
A specialist looked at it and found nothing wrong.
They read out the Motronic computer and found nothing wrong.
Then an other Motronic was fitted and now all seems fine.

Yet it will run with the original, the question is do I want to pay 1000 euro for this replacement computer or take my chances (really?) with the old one?

All other suggestions and insights are welcome!
(Untill this is sorted I will not mention the name of the shop.)

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[unknown4u]

Hi Dirk, I do have a Motronic for you to swap out. I'll sent you a pm.

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[Dirk]

Today I picked up the car and I'm not happy.

The man said he had a lengthy test drive and the engine was fine, yet I found the vibrations at around 3500-3800 are stronger than ever plus various heat shields rattle.
After I complained he gave me a replacement motor mount and I'll have to get it build in soon to see if it really is the source of the vibrations.

I was charged a 1000 euros for the replacement Motronic and told it was in exchange for the old one, sounds steep to me and I'm contemplating going back for the old one.

About the cooling issue, apparently the plastic elbow that's on top of the water pump for the by-pass is when new solid and needs to be drilled out for use. ( he showed me one).
This was not done by the engine builder and he's now accusing the guy who fitted the engine in the car of failing to notice, I'm no car mechanic but that story sucks.
I drove the car for some 2000 kms. and never noticed a temperature issue, besides, how would a blocked by-pass cause an oil pump failure?

In other words, I'm / we're not done yet.

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[Johannvb]

Hi Dirk,

I am not sure where in the Netherlands you live, but I can strongly recommend my mechanic.

http://www.carcare-soest.nl/

He is quite thorough and should be able to fix your issue. He is quite expensive though since he is a perfectionist, but that is why I know he will find and fix your problem.

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[Dirk]

Now the electrical problems are solved I need to concentrate on the vibration isse.
The right hand side motor mount was replace with a used one but there's no improvement.
Basically there are only two bands without vibration, from about 2200 to 3000revs and the double, 4400 till 6000 revs.

Interresting is that the severity can change between drives, so I wonder if there's anything rubber or hydraulic involved.

I can guess the principle of the dual mass flywheel but don't know the practicalities of it, could a failure of this flywheel be a reason for the symptoms?

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[barth7]

My car started vibrating when I got almost to work this morning. I came on in and tried to decide what the vibe was, but am not positive. It soulded like maybe an exhaust pipe up against something, so I thought maybe one of the engine mounts or tranny mount had collapsed. I have about decided it may be the balance shaft belt, though. I put them on last fall or winter and retensioned them earlier this year. Less than 20k miles on them, for sure. I plan to take the belt cover off and inspect this afternoon before leaving. If anybody has any thoughts on it, shoot me a PM.

Thanks.

-Bart

P.S. 185k on the car.

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[barth7]

I have never seen this before, but almost all of the teeth were gone from the inside of my balance shaft belt. I spun the idler & BS pullies pretty freely, tension felt pretty close to right. I cut the bult off and will get another. Still not sure why this happened.

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[PorscheDude]

Consider yourself very lucky!
The BS belt could have shreaded and took the TB with it.

Smart move cutting it out before going home.

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