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Vibration/thump in torque tunnel area under shifter
#1

So car has been in storage since thanksgiving, picked it up last weekend, drove it about 120 miles, all seemed good. 

 

Started the car today, and at idle it felt at about 950rpm, that something was vibrating in the drive shaft area, under the shifter, below the arm rest.

 

Took the car for a five minute spin, and it went away, never to return.

 

Any clue what it could have been?

 

I have a Cayenne, with a cardan shaft, and when the bearing that holds the shaft in place start to go, you get a similar feeling vibrating, then eventual banging as the shaft hits against the car when the bearings are completely shot.

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#2

Im having a similar issue but its more of a light metallic clanking noise with excessive vibration when engaged in D. i know my torque converter damper is still in good condition so have ruled that out as a possibility. Appears the noise is coming out of the central muffler.
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#3

Funny, I have this problem too. Metallic clanking noise and the dampener was replaced. Still have the noise so it could be the exhaust?

Cat. or resonator maybe?
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93 guards red coupe tip: Mods - 17" sport classics, M030 sways, air box mod and RacerX chip, front splitter, re-wired Tip (reversed up /down shift).
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#4

Guessing it is either the exhaust or the torque tube. Plan to replace the central exhaust first and hopefully that fixes the problem!
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#5

Never had this is the 968s, but experienced a metallic clanking / rattling noise in the 944s and both times it was the catalytic converter. If I recall ( it was too long ago and my memory fails me ..) it was not constant but happened either on acceleration or on deceleration ..
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#6

Actually, my mine, the rattling noise happens when the cars starts, in neutral and in drive. Disappears or can't be heard when he car is moving. So maybe not the torque tube?
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93 guards red coupe tip: Mods - 17" sport classics, M030 sways, air box mod and RacerX chip, front splitter, re-wired Tip (reversed up /down shift).
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#7

crack in the torque converter flex plate, or bolts worked loose, one of the guys over here just had a similar issue

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1992 968 Coupe

1986 Honda VF1000 FII

2016 Volvo XC90 D5 R-Design

 
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#8

Problem is identifying where the noise is really coming from.  Noise travels up and down the torque tube and having read many threads on this subject, it is important to identify the type of noise you're hearing. Then it may be possible to determine where its coming from.  Things like "catalytic" converter, exhaust rattle etc. confuse the issue.  Then there is the horror show of the damper but in most cases its so pronounced that recognizing it, is almost assured.  There's also an inspection port to help. There are a number of bearings which can go bad etc.  I hear noises too in my torque tube but am sensitive to it, once the car is moving along you don't hear it but its there. Not to put to light a spin on it but many people have noises along the drive train and its the configuration of front engine, rear transmission along with an older car.  If its really annoying you know it, but if it disappears relative to the other noises while in drive it could be the bearings in the torque tube and they do wear out... I've had my torque tube out, and spun the drive on level ground, it spins smooth but you can hear it, once connected up with the engine and tranny the sound is magnified but it runs fine. These cars are tougher than some might think... so maybe in another 50,000 miles I'll have to replace them... some are going to want to replace things at the first sign, I just drive it and enjoy it.  I've had to shake down the car from day one as I bought it used, and I've discovered layers of noise. I'd fix one problem only to find another noise, and eliminating that another one, but after identifying them all, I settle for noises that don't rise above idle. 

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#9

In my case the rattling happens when the engine starts and in neutral as well but less pronounced than when in drive. The noise and vibration level i would say are just above that level of threshold to be ignored. I had the car running on a hoist and could hear the noise coming from the central exhaust area. Hence inclined to think that is the part that is defective and to be replaced. However im also thinking if it could be excessive vibration in the torque tube causing noise in the central exhaust. Dont think it is the damper flex plate as the resulting vibration/knock caused by a cracked damper is usually more impactful when drive is engaged.
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#10

"... central exhaust area..",  I would be inclined from all that you've stated to think it was one or both bearings that carry the drive shaft through the torque tube.  I haven't attempted to replace those bearings.  I would be very cautious about the mechanic who was willing to do it.  It could cost alot only to be told you need a new torque tube. Its not a standard repair item, the bearings are no longer available but it can be done with after market bearings.

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#11

I need to do a clarification on the number of bearings.  I'd read that the 968 had 2 bearings in the torque tube unlike the 944.  And I'd read where someone had just replaced 2 of them which I can't understand now.  The original number is 4 and one company Black Sea sells a set of 3 or 4 depending on application.

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#12

trust black sea.  they do phenomenal work.  they even powder coat your torque tube.  i highly recommend their super bearings.  

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#13

Just need you to sell your house to pay the bill
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1992 968 Coupe

1986 Honda VF1000 FII

2016 Volvo XC90 D5 R-Design

 
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#14

it's not cheap, but it's not that bad.  i think it was about $1300 when all was said and done.  the bearings are a lot better than stock too.  even the budget job at your local place is $500, and they have to either reuse the collars, or go aftermarket.  both ways involve you having to R&R the tube

 

the down time is the killer

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#15

Read on the Black sea website that we have the option of replacing the torque tube on a 968 with a 944 torque tube (without the split). Any idea if this is the case?
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#16

Funny you should mention that, when I'd had my torque tube out there wasn't a split, I didn't know it was specific to the 944, but I'd read posts that mentioned it and wondered why mine was different. 

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#17

last i heard they will not do the tubes with the split.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#18

Which 944 torque tube will fit a 968 tip? Thought the 944 tubes were different...
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#19

they would be the experts on this.  it's all they do.  they did a great job on mine, and we dealt with the split issue, ending up with a solid tube.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#20

Interesting, so you had a split tube initially but changed it? I'm still learning what is stock and what is modified on mine which is why I ask.

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