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Rear balance shaft seal
#1

I removed the intake manifold yesterday in order to clean up the gaskets (gobs of RTV everywhere!) and paint it. Underneath it was very oily & dirty. It looks very much localized to the back of the balance shaft housing.



Has anyone replaced that seal? If so, how much of a pain is it to do?
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#2

I'm no expert, but I understand that you have to take off the whole assembly as the seal is replaced from the inside. And to do this you'll need to take off front covers to remove the balance shaft belt. So, it's a pretty big deal. Seems like the standard solution is to use RTV on the outside. The lower balance shaft on mine had already been done this way, albeit a bit sloppy, but it seemed to be working fairly well.



I just did the RTV fix to the rear seals on both balance shafts. Decided to redo the one that had already been done as it was weaping a little bit. If the o-ring is shot, the disc that you see in the rear will spin easily. I very carefully cleaned the housing and the disc with alcohol to insure a good bond to both surfaces. Then I applied the RTV with my finger, trying as best I could to get the RTV under the lip on the disc while filling in the gap between the disc and the housing.
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#3

Yeah, my disk was spinning easily. I'll try the RTV fix and see how that works. If it lasts 'till I've got a garage built and can pull the engine, I'll consider that a good result.



Thanks!
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#4

The RTV fix will work , as long as you degrease it very well .

I did it that way before i pulled my engine and replaced the o-ring's , there is no pressure on that seal exept for some crankcase pressure , so it does not have to hold much at all .

I have also done it with friends car(S2) , the lower balanceshaft , it has been leak free for about 3 years now , the only bad thing is it's looks , but hey we drive around with the hood closed anyway
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#5

Did the RTV fix to mine almost 3 years ago and it's still holding well. I'll fix it right someday, but pulling the engine at this point isn't warranted. I may do it when i do the motor mounts, rod bearing, etc...
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#6

I'm pulling this portion of the engine apart tomorrow. I will post pictures if I can. As far I can tell working from under the car isn't that bad to pull apart as long you've removed the belts and pulleys as I did.
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#7

RTV fix done well will probably last as long as new O ring before it starts leaking again.
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#8

I did this and its a pain to do with anything installed on the engine - also make sure you put new bolts in when you put the cover back on as one of the bear shell bolts snapped just after i had done it hand tight



Top one can be done with the belts in place with some fiddling but bottom one ideally wants the cross member, manifold, engine mount bracket, power steering pump removed and you also need to take off all the belts.



When you look inside, bunging some sealant in the back is probably the best option. I woundn't feel inclined to try and torque up any bolts "just in case they are loose" as they might snap.



Pictures of top one below



[Image: P1010561.JPG]



[Image: P1010562.JPG]



I have also concluded that a loose o-ring could also be responsible from an annoying ticking i get at tickover as it makes a metallic sound from hitting the casing when you tap it



Lots more pics



https://picasaweb.google.com/10803753702...-bantL1YA#
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#9

Nice pics! I'm learning a lot just looking through them.
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#10

I agree, nice pics. If I'd seen these before I'd have been temped to replace the seals rather than use the RTV solution.
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#11

Great pics, Jake! Definitely will help when I do the same on mine.
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#12

I went to picasa and looked at every picture. thanks!

brian
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#13

That's quite a task you took on. Thanks for sharing your documentation.

I think you must have had an anomaly with your snapped bolt. These are 6mm bolts only torqued to 7 ftlbs. These shouldnt fail in a thousands usages.

There is a weakness that got me though. 6mm threads in aluminum just aren't that strong. I have had to helicoil and Time-Sert (Big-Sert, actually) over a dozen of this size threaded hole in the block on the balance shafts, oil pan, and oil pump areas.
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#14

Hi



The bolt that snapped was on the bearing shell and the one beneath it was loose before i started so i think it must have been under a lot of stress for some period of time.



Every time you do up a bolt on these things its very stressful!



Still putting things back on the car so posting more pics all the time



Jake
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