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engine oil
#1

what grade and make of engine oil is a good choice. Mobil 15/50? this is my first oil change since having the car for only 2 weeks. changing all the fluids so I have a starting point to go by.

Need an idea of price for having the timing and balance shaft belts replaced.

About your cars power. Has anyone done the 3000rpm to 6000rpm in 3rd gear with a stop watch? 4th gear too.    
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#2

I think the vast majority of us run Mobil 1 15W-50. That is probably the optimum choice for most mild climates year 'round. Castrol Syntec 5W-50, would be a good chioce where sub zero temperatures are anticipated.
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#3

I use Mobil 1 15W50 year round in Arkansas but the 968 hibernates in the garage if there is any risk of ice.



Our oil expert / moderator Herr Greimann uses 20W50 or 20W60 in Sunny So Cal.



If you drive the 968 in the winter in Ohio it might be advisable to switch to a 5 or 10 W 30 or 40 for the winter.



Some, including I have heard additional lifter noise with thinner 0W and 5W oils.
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#4

20W-60 is a rare find in North America. Maybe in some motorcycle shops servicing Harleys. 20W-60 is a common product in Europe and Australia. I have no idea why this geographic difference in availability. Maybe the same reason that we fill itchy about pushing change intervals beyond 5k to 10k miles, and other regions are on a 15k to 20k mile change interval. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#5

Do you think it would be worth while to import some?



I could not remember if you were using 20W50 or 20W60. With your connections I figured 20W60 would be available.
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#6

Shhh, don't tell anyone, but I am running Mobil 1 15W-50 <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

I did run Syntec 20W-50 but my favorite store was out the last time I was in to buy oil. I am with the industrial products division anyway so there is no back door product channel for me on motor oil. I can, however, get some totally awesome gear oil and grease.



Since I have installed an oil temperature gauge, I realize that the 968 controls oil temperature very well. After about 15 minutes of driving the oil temp comes up to 200° F and will stay there unless you are on the freeway, which brings it down a bit. Stable oil temperature means a predictable environment for the lubricant and you can select the back number ( after the dash) for a year 'round duty. The front number (before the W) need to be chosen for the lowest temperature you can anticipate. 20W-50 is good to 20° F and above. Any colder and you will need a 0W to 10W grade.
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#7

[quote name='Greimann' date='Sep 13 2005, 09:42 AM']Since I have installed an oil temperature gauge, I realize that the 968 controls oil temperature very well. [right][post="9789"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





Do you have a DIY writeup for this? I want to intall one in my track car.
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#8

Step one - Get a gauge with a 10mm thread sensor and an aftermarket drain plug. I get my gauges from http://www.egauges.com/ . A 20 x 1.5mm drain plug can be found at most auto parts stores.



Drill and tap the plug for the sensor.    



Install the gauge!    
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#9

[quote name='Greimann' date='Sep 13 2005, 10:26 AM']Step one - Get a gauge with a 10mm thread sensor  and an aftermarket drain plug. I get  my gauges from http://www.egauges.com/ . A 20 x 1.5mm drain plug can be found at most auto parts stores.



Drill and tap the plug for the sensor. [Image: attachment.php?thumbnail=1050]



Install the gauge! [Image: attachment.php?thumbnail=1051]

[right][post="9793"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Excellent and easy!
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#10

Does that 996 shifter fit the 968 with no modification or do you have to modify it? Looks great in the 968 and I enjoyed that knob in my old 996...just curious.
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#11

You have to cut out the old shift knob from the boot and splice in the new knob. I did mine like the picture below. The mechanical attachment to the shift lever is a direct fit. No modification necessary. Look on e-bay, they come up all the time. I got mine for about $80. You will croak if you see the price from the dealer. They are also from the Boxster S.



   
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#12

Thanks for the reply so fast....so you basically have to sew in the bottom of the old shift knob to hold the new shift knob in place? I see the zip tie in your pic, just couldn't figure out how the 2 knobs were spliced together...
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#13

The zip tie is the only thing that splices the two boots together. It zips around the base of the knob an clamps the leather parts together - no sewing. You just fold over the edge and from the outside, it is just a rolled edge of leather. No too bad a look. The top knotch way would be to take it to a professional and have a seamless boot made up.
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