11-17-2010, 08:07 PM
After spending probably eight solid hours troubleshooting my sunroof issues, I've discovered that both of my gears are stripped. One common cause of this is that the torque at which the slip clutch releases for some reason tends to increase over time, which puts extra strain on the fragile gears. Clark's garage has a description about how to adjust the torque at which the slip clutch releases, but I find it a little confusing, and was wondering if anybody has done this before, and if they could clarify a few things. Here's Clark's description:
Late Style Sunroof Slip Clutch Checking and Adjustment:
Open the sunroof about 1/2 open. This will prevent damaging the plastic gears during slip clutch testing.
Using a 21 mm socket and torque wrench, turn hexagonal nut A on the motor slip clutch (see picture below). The clutch should slip at 6 Nm (± 0.5 Nm). I normally like to see the torque at the low end of the spec or even slightly below (5 - 5.5 Nm) to ensure that the plastic gears don't get stripped again.
The breaking loose torque of the motor can vary at different gear positions. So, the torque should be checked six times at 60 degree angles of rotation on the hexagonal nut A (i.e. 360 degrees total or six times during one full rotation of the nut).
A - Checking Torque
B - Adjusting Torque
C - Lock Nut
If the slip clutch needs adjustment perform the following
Loosen lock nut C.
Adjust the motor torque by moving adjusting nut B. Loosening nut B will lower the torque. Tightening nut B will raise the torque.
When the torque is properly adjusted, apply a small amount of Loctite 270 to the adjusting screw threads and tighten lock nut C to a torque of 15 ± 2 Nm.
Here are my questions:
1. The instructions say to open the sunroof about 1/2 way open before starting the procedure. Does that mean we need to turn the torque wrench until the tabs on the lifting arms contact the roof? Or will the slip clutch start to slip prior to that? It takes a fair amount of turning of the 21 mm nut to get much movement out of the drive cable.
2. How much of the assembly needs to be in place to check the torque?
- Do the sunroof gears need to be in place?
- Do the lifting arms need to be in place?
- Does the sunroof need to be on, or can the torque be tested with the sunroof off?
3. I think this answers question 1), but it sounds like Clark is saying we should turn the torque wrench to see when the clutch slips, then turn the 21 mm nut 60 degrees with a regular socket wrench, check the torque again, and repeat the process until the torque has been checked at 60 degree intervals across one full rotation of the screw. Does this sound correct?
Thanks; I never aspired to turn into the resident sunroof expert, but it seems that I'm moving in that direction...
Late Style Sunroof Slip Clutch Checking and Adjustment:
Open the sunroof about 1/2 open. This will prevent damaging the plastic gears during slip clutch testing.
Using a 21 mm socket and torque wrench, turn hexagonal nut A on the motor slip clutch (see picture below). The clutch should slip at 6 Nm (± 0.5 Nm). I normally like to see the torque at the low end of the spec or even slightly below (5 - 5.5 Nm) to ensure that the plastic gears don't get stripped again.
The breaking loose torque of the motor can vary at different gear positions. So, the torque should be checked six times at 60 degree angles of rotation on the hexagonal nut A (i.e. 360 degrees total or six times during one full rotation of the nut).
A - Checking Torque
B - Adjusting Torque
C - Lock Nut
If the slip clutch needs adjustment perform the following
Loosen lock nut C.
Adjust the motor torque by moving adjusting nut B. Loosening nut B will lower the torque. Tightening nut B will raise the torque.
When the torque is properly adjusted, apply a small amount of Loctite 270 to the adjusting screw threads and tighten lock nut C to a torque of 15 ± 2 Nm.
Here are my questions:
1. The instructions say to open the sunroof about 1/2 way open before starting the procedure. Does that mean we need to turn the torque wrench until the tabs on the lifting arms contact the roof? Or will the slip clutch start to slip prior to that? It takes a fair amount of turning of the 21 mm nut to get much movement out of the drive cable.
2. How much of the assembly needs to be in place to check the torque?
- Do the sunroof gears need to be in place?
- Do the lifting arms need to be in place?
- Does the sunroof need to be on, or can the torque be tested with the sunroof off?
3. I think this answers question 1), but it sounds like Clark is saying we should turn the torque wrench to see when the clutch slips, then turn the 21 mm nut 60 degrees with a regular socket wrench, check the torque again, and repeat the process until the torque has been checked at 60 degree intervals across one full rotation of the screw. Does this sound correct?
Thanks; I never aspired to turn into the resident sunroof expert, but it seems that I'm moving in that direction...

