[flash]

the needle should not move much in street driving, no matter how hard, and there is no way to drive on the street hard enough to create the loads that you see on the track.  generally it would only be a needle width if things are right.  it is only on the track that i ever saw the needle go beyond 9.  it should never go to 10.  if it goes to 10, or swings more than a needle width on the street, it's clogged

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[MLB]

I previously used RO water (50:50 with Pentofrost NF) from the lab i worked in, but going forward I just plan to get the distilled or demineralized from a store.

I like the idea of the vinegar wash, but I'm not keen on the baking soda rather just excess tap water to rinse it out well I'm thinking.


Oh and by the way I've never experienced such hard water as here in South Central Wisconsin. Astonishing. You could break a tooth on the stuff...

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[williamoss]

THANK YOU ALL FOR REPLYING TO MY INQUIRERY, SO PERHAPS MY BONE HEAD IS SMALLER NOW. GOOD ANSWERS ALL THANK YOU

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[wildcat]

 A needle width... perfect. So starting at just below the line or into it up to say just clearing the line... Most of the time it was like that but sometimes like on a steep hill on a hot day it would climb to the 9 position.  Now its registering for the most part just barely into the line from the bottom. Those fans need to be working properly and you can't always tell unless you've got those little jumpers and manually turn them on to check them with the engine off. Then you can hear and see them. But then you have to know what you're looking for, which I didn't. If the fans start to resonate on start up, or looking at them, one or both are strobeing, or if one appears to be rotating faster than the other, (which can appear as strobeing ) there is a problem.  Typically you can't tell on high speed, but you can use a strobe light which may give some indication of the relative speeds of the motors. If there's a difference, a determination of the cause is in order. Could be one of those hockey pucks going bad too and not the motor itself. 

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[MCL968]

I plan to give this a shot tomorrow. Any advice? I would prefer to not remove the hoses because I hate bleeding the cooling system. Is that a possibility?

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[MCL968]

OK, for those of you planning to do this necessary maintenance, here's some advice:

 

First, the fans can drop straight down once you remove the lower cover and the bat-wing. I found it was a whole lot easier raising the car up and taking them out through the bottom.

 

Second, the clips are a bit of a challenge, but if you put a thin bladed screwdriver in the center slot, and tap the blade with a small hammer away from the motor, you can get the clip to release without destroying the clip.

 

Third, the end of the motor shaft is probably corroded, so dress it down with a file after you have removed the clip, but before you try to remove the blades from the motor. Also, lube the shaft before removing the blades.

 

Fourth, the blades also serve as a thrust washer to "pull" the armature a slight amount out of the motor. Once the blades are removed, the armature retracts back ever so slightly, causing the brushes to make contact with a part of the armature that they previously have not touched. This will make the motor grind when you spin it. Don't get freaked out like I did and start pricing new motors. Clean it, lube the bearings, and put it back together, then see if it grinds.

 

Finally, getting the pin to align with the slot on the back of the fan blades is a challenge, but it's a lot easier if the corrosion is removed from the tip of the shaft, and the shaft and blades are properly lubed.

 

There you go, it was a bit of a pain, but the noise is somewhat diminished and I know that the bearings are lubed.

 

Matt

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[ds968]

Great write up !

Re the ease with which you can drop down / remove the fans from the bottom ; we're talking about a manual car, right ? The reason I ask is that tiptronics have a transmission metal cooling line running across the bottom right there underneath the radiator, and even though it's a fairly narrow pipe , it stil gets in the way of many things one tries to remove through there .. not sure if it affects the fans removal as well , but just thought I'd bring it up ..

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[az968]

And yet another reason to have a manual transmission :-)

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[MCL968]

Anyone know if the 928 or 944 fans will work with the 968 fan housing? They look similar, but I have not tried to do a swap.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

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[968Syncro]

A couple of weeks ago I put in new cooling fans from a 944.  I bought the entire "frame" with 2 fans installed, bought off ebay, probably about the same as this:

 

https://www.ebay.com/i/222878546077?chn=ps&dispItem=1

 

It feels better for $135.00 than what appears to be the individual new fan cost of about $450 each.   I think it has to be from a 944S2 or the 944 Turbo, can't remember exactly, but my memory is the earlier 944 fans aren't the same.  I went by looks, closely examine the cooling fan frame in the 968 with the picture of the item for sale, and it matched, and it worked.

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