[rl968]

I noticed that there is coolant residue on the bottom of the radiator, even a couple of drops, but can't pinpoint where it might be coming from. The drain plug is dry as is the upper hose. The lower hose looks like its in not so great condition, but can't quite tell that's where the leak is coming from. All other connections, including on the water pump and reservoir are dry. Radiator looks like it's brand new. Coolant level in the tank hasn't changed much and car cools fine. Any thoughts?

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[banditsc]

How about the sensor on radiator?

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[rl968]

where is it located?

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[flash]

immediately below the upper hose - very hard to get to

i would check all of your hose clamps - they tend to get loose over time

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[rl968]

Thanks, does it just have to be tightened or is it something that has a seal that may have gone bad? Anything to watch out for?

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[banditsc]

There is a paper gasket on the sensor. Don't tighten the sensor to hard as the radiator is only plastic and will crack. Clean up all the traces of coolant and see if you can se where it's coming from.

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[rl968]

I took a closer look this morning and it appears the leak is coming from the hose that runs from the back of the expansion tank into the top of the radiator. It's a relatively narrow hose. The leak is at the end that connects to the radiator. The hose connects into plastic fitting that has a paper gasket. The gasket was green (not a good sign), I could see some moisture around it and the fitting itself was clearly loose. Carefully, I tightened the plastic fitting by turning about 1/2 revolution until it felt snug, hopefully that does the trick. Tightened a few other hoses while I was in there, some were looser than they probably should be.

Thanks for the input.

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[DaveN]

If that's the little plastic spiggot above the rad hose I am thinking about be VERY CAREFUL tightening it! Last month my P mechanic had my S2 for a look see as the A/C clutch had gone. While he was there he say a tiny bit of green arounf that connector so he decided to give it a small tweak. 30 minutes later on the highway way coming home and Whooosh went all the coolant. That spiggot cracked and let go simply from age and that little extra force to cure the weeping.

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[blue968]

I think we should do a group buy on thees radiators since we are going to need 1 sooner or later and hopefully save some money on buying a bunch [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

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[rl968]

It now looks like it is also coming from the sensor connection on the radiator. A couple of questions:

1. How does the sensor plug come off, do you just pull it off or does it turn.

2. What's the best way to get to the sensor connection so I can tighten the nut, it seems inaccessible unless you remove the two upper hoses right above it (a small one and a larger one.)

3. If I have to unhook those two upper hoses, will coolant come out, which means I will need to drain radiator first.

4. If radiator needs to be drained, what's the procedure to refill. Do I just refill through expansion tank, run car and bleed it out through screw until all the air is gone?

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks.

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[flash]

the fan temp switch, located immediately below the large upper radiator hose, has a connector that just unplugs - the switch itself screws in - access sucks - with the fans in place, you can't get on it with a wrench, a shallow socket won't get it, and a deep one is too deep

as for refilling, yes, you just fill it through the expansion tank, and yes it needs to be bled - do a search here for the procedure

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[rl968]

Thanks. I'll have to go at it from the top, doesn't seem possible to get it from the bottom. If I take off the two hoses above the temp switch, should be much more accessible. I'm going to replace the gaskets instead of trying to tighten and do it all again.

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[flash]

it's actually easier from the bottom, but as i said, you have to remove the fans to really do it from either direction, and since you have to do that, it may as well be from the bottom

there is only a sealing ring

do NOT over-torque - the tank is plastic and strips easily

i highly recommend replacing the switch - it is only about $15, and you can put in the low temp one and it will run cooler

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[DaveN]

FYI, I did mine from the top with the rad hose off. I had a 30mm deep socket and a 3/8 ratchet and it fit in fine if you put the socket on first and then attach the ratchet. I was very worried about putting it back on (torque spec?) but it turns out if you put your finger in the hole you will feel a metal female end sort of floating on the other side so it's not a plastic thread at least.

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[flash]

yeah - i did it from the top like that once too - i also worried about how tight i was able to get it

never stuck my finger in there though - the outside is plastic, and it wasn't very thick, so i assumed the inside was as well - i'll have to look at that when i have a radiator out in about a week

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[rl968]

So I replaced the thermo-fan temp switch today, replacing the original with a low temp one. I have to say, the low temp switch is nice as the car is now running noticeably cooler. With the old switch, temp would climb a couple of notches above the first mark sometimes to half way, but with the new switch the temp rises only to the top of the first mark and then comes down to the bottom of the mark. It's not quite as hot today, but this car always ran above the first mark.

As for replacing it, it's very easy. I did it from the top. While I was in there, also replaced the gasket on the fitting going from reservoir tank to top of radiator and the lower radiator that runs from water pump to radiator.


1. Drain radiator by slowly turning the blue cap at bottom of radiator (make sure you have two pans as the coolant empties all along the entire length of the radiator.) Remove the expansion tank cap as well to get better flow.
2. Remove black metal bracket running along the top of radiator (Two screws on each side.) I'm assuming you've already removed the air filter box.
3. Disconnect upper two hoses on radiator.
4. Disconnect plug to thermofan switch on radiator below these two hoses.
5. using 1-1/8 deep socket (I think you can also use 29mm or 30mm), gently unscrew the fan switch.
6. Replace new switch (don't screw on too tight or you may crack something) and plug it back in.
7. Attach two upper hoses and replace the drain plug (again, don't tighten too much)
8. Fill expansion tank to min line, turn on car, let it warm up and open bleeder screw to let some air out. Once fans come on, you should be good to go, add more coolant as needed to top off to min line.

Took me about an hour to do the whole thing and I had almost no experience with this.

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[flash]

3 recommendations to the list:

1. have a new drain plug ready - the plastic one breaks often when trying to remove or reinstall

2. fill the gap between the bottom of the radiator and the lower tray with rags - this will catch the coolant that wants to run there and make a mess

3. make a sluice gate for the drain plug so that the draining coolant goes into the drain pan

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