[alausch]

Here's what I'm going to do first. I'm going to order the correct head bolt as per Porsche (999-217-082-02), and replace the old bolt that's original to the car. I may just order another Bosch sensor in case the Uro brand sensor crystal was damaged by some chance when shipped to Hawaii.

 

Then, if that doesn't work I think I'll clean the injectors, and maybe replace the FPR at the same time. We'll see, more to follow.  

 

I'm so tired of a slow 968.

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[Waylander]

I have just had the same issue with a knock sensor, the easy one to get at the rear one.......

 

although im in the UK i have wired up my engine check light, and I had the light come on last week, Blink Test showed 1-1-3-2 faulty knock sensor 2

 

I thought this is not going to be fun, i managed to pull off the connector (EV1) and it was corroded and the boot is split, so a few doses of contact cleaner and on and off a few times and its cleared,

 

but while i was messing about with this I ordered a new sensor off eBay and after checking the Bosch Number it is attached to a few other cars too,

 

Ford Escort 1.6 16V Efi for one, 0 261 231 006, now this number has been superceeded 0 261 231 046. these are easy to find on ebay.

 

Brand New Bosch, Old Number USA

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bosch-Knock...100623.m-1

 

As your part of the USA you should be able to find one on the island, they dont take to well to being dropped or thrown around

 

How about Autozone

<a class="">Stadium Marketplace</a>

<a class=""><span>Honolulu, HI, United States</span></a>
 
<span>or</span>
 
<span>O'Rielly's</span>
<span><span>1550 S King St, Honolulu, HI 96826, USA</span></span>
 
<span><span>I would not buy another Intermotor one, I have never had good experiences with that Brand</span></span>

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[alausch]

Oh no...#2 huh? No Bueno.

 

Hey thanks, yeah, believe it or not the Stadium Marketplace Autozone is 10 min from my house on Ford Island. I prefer the O'Reilly's right there in the same plaza off Salt Lake Blvd. They were the first to offer military discount, so I'm faithful to them. I have a brand new Bosch sensor just arrived in the mail from Parts Geek, and the special bolt is on its way from Sonnen (Marin) Porsche in California.  I refuse to buy any parts from Honolulu Porsche, they gouge prices like you wouldn't believe.

 

I've already changed the #1 sensor with a Uro brand product months ago, which is a concern. Maybe a Bosch brand one will do the trick. I've topped up with some complete fuel system cleaner. You were right, I would think that the Knock Sensor would be triggered by something else. After looking through my shop manual code matrix, the specific #1 sensor code is normally reserved for fuel delivery/lack of performance/gas mileage issues. That surprised me.

 

Bottom line, the valve lifter noise is gone, believe it or not. An oil change seemed to do the trick. So, I'm not messing with the valves until I absolutely have to.

 

While I wait on the bolt, I'm pulling the ICV and throttle body off today for a good cleaning. I may switch ICVs between my cabrio and coupe to see if I can isolate a problem. The valve inside the unit may be stuck. I get a burble from the exhaust at idle and at times it seems to almost miss fire. Although, I need to check my manual again to see if there's a specific ICV fault code. I've seen many posts by 944S2 owners that have chronic ICV issues, causing the engine to run rough and issues with cold starts sometimes. I have similar symptoms, now that I can rule out a lifter problem.  I wonder if some of this is an air/fuel problem tied to the knock sensor fault code.  

 

I'm beginning to figure out that OBD I/early ECUs do a bad job of really telling you what the specific problem is, as per you, and the actual Porsche manual.

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[alausch]

Waylander,

 

I'm  freaking out, it's fixed, it's really fixed!!! Just took it for a serious shake down cruise over the mountains to Kailua. No code #31 after 30 miles. I feel a strong 200+ HP for the first time in a long time. Fingers crossed, that 's definitely a record since I started having serious issues about 10-11 months ago.

 

I changed the knock sensor, and behold...I had a bad new part!!! The Uro brand sensor was junk, or at least I think it was. Replaced it with a Bosch unit, correct torque spec of 15 ft/lbs, and cleaned the connector really well with contact cleaner. I also positioned the sensor so the connector was facing forward, which equals less kinkage/strain on the harness itself.

 

Additionally, I pulled the ICV and cleaned it thoroughly. There is a code associated with the "stabilizer" as Porsche calls it (#27/28). It didn't throw a code, but it was EXTREMELY grimy and gross. Carb cleaner did the job. Idle issues seem to be remedied as well. I'm over the moon. This coupe is mechanically SOUND, and I haven't been able to say that in a long time. Really, since I bought it Oct 2017.

 

So, here's what we've got over the last year...

- Timing/balance belts done,

- Cam sprocket rotor place replaced,

- Hall sensor x2 (rotor broke one)

- Knock sensors X2

- New and more efficient AC condenser from Retro AC

- Balance shaft seals done, front and rear of engine

- New accessory belts

- Power seat switches x2

- Club Sport center console

- New rear side hatch trim and gaskets

- New shift boot

- New front spoiler "bat wing" with new hardware

- Sunroof bag

- Dings removed from some dude leaning over the fender with all of his weight...

 

Etc, and at the end of the day...my wife is PISSED

 

:glare:  :clap:

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[Waylander]

Im so glad you got there in the end, I am not a fan of those cheap precision parts

There is money to be saved on parts but not crucial ones


The ICV is a real problem as there is also an O ring that seals the body to the mechanism in the base, you have to release the lock tabs and split it in half, mine was rock hard and in 5 bits, it allows extra air to leak in.


New ICV is a fortune, although you can use one from a Hyundai Lantra 2.0 or BMW E36


If you had asked I have a how to on the seat switches, they are easy to fix just a bit fiddly


You will still need to clear the stored code in the ECU,


I have just bought a new piwis lead from OBD365 online and a OBD2 TO 19 PIN adapter and it works fine

For $27 I'm more than happy as I lent my other one and never got it back

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