[S_Cal968]

If I recall the AB light is in parallel with the CEL. Disconnecting the power to the AB light has no affect on the CEL, [if the blub blew out it would be the same electrically].
Whether the AB system is still functional is unknown. It would be nice to find out if *all* faults disable the module or is it limits to specific faults.
Someday I'll get mine corrected...

BTW, the wire is yellow/red, in position 6 of the T41 connector [see wire diag. 97-117].

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[jfrahm]

<!--quoteo(post=74657:date=Jun 27 2009, 06:43 PM:name=S_Cal968)-->QUOTE (S_Cal968 @ Jun 27 2009, 06:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->If I recall the AB light is in parallel with the CEL. Disconnecting the power to the AB light has no affect on the CEL, [if the blub blew out it would be the same electrically].
Whether the AB system is still functional is unknown. It would be nice to find out if *all* faults disable the module or is it limits to specific faults.
Someday I'll get mine corrected...

BTW, the wire is yellow/red, in position 6 of the T41 connector [see wire diag. 97-117].<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Yes that is the same wire that I disconnected, it is YE/RE after T41 (on the cluster side) and WT/BK on the airbag module side.

I'd like to think the stored codes that I believe the nag is whining about do not disable the system like actual faults would.
-Joel.

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[S_Cal968]

True..
Me thinks, much like the DME, the AB module is letting you know there was an abnormal condition of which will not disable the system.

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[firefish]

Am I correct in assuming that the correct way to deal with the ab light is to install 3 ohm resistors in lieu of the airbags (if removed) and then clear the light with a hammer (not the carpenter one although it might work too )? And despite doing it in the correct way then light can still come one due to anomalies in the system?

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[unknown4u]

<!--quoteo(post=76623:date=Aug 2 2009, 08:06 AM:name=firefish)-->QUOTE (firefish @ Aug 2 2009, 08:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Am I correct in assuming that the correct way to deal with the ab light is to install 3 ohm resistors in lieu of the airbags (if removed) and then clear the light with a hammer (not the carpenter one although it might work too )? And despite doing it in the correct way then light can still come one due to anomalies in the system?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Yes that is correct!.
regards Ritchie

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[S_Cal968]

Yes, I've heard/read that the light can be triggered from a variety of abnormalities. I have the stock steering wheel and triggered the light when working on the instrument cluster. I'm curious if it will trigger with a fluctuation in voltage or voltage spike - is it that sensitive[?].

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[flash]

yes - don't ask me how i know - arrrrrrgh

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[jfrahm]

If you have removed the airbags I cannot imagine why you would bother putting in resistors and resetting the system. What you are doing is allowing a system that you have removed the important parts of and does not work to pass a test so it can tell the cluster it is working. At that point, who cares? Cut the airbag warning wire to the cluster or maybe even remove the airbag module itself. Otherwise you still get an airbag nag if you have battery problems or fool with the cluster, but no airbags to protect your noggin in a crash, so you get the downsides but not the upsides.

-Joel.

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[flash]

you would do this because it would otherwise throw a fault code, making it more difficult to diagnose other issues, since you would have to get past that one to see the others - also, cutting the wire to the airbag light does not eliminate the "!" - you definitely do not want to cut the wire to that, as it would preclude the ability to know that you had another fault

for $3 why not eliminate it as an issue? sure, you could still trigger it if you did something dumb (as i have done in the past), but the idea of not having the big warning light is potentially dangerous

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[Anchorman]

...and you would do it so that state inspection would think the airbag system is working as it should.

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[flash]

oof - good point - hadn't thought about that, since we don't have that here, but for states that do, that would be a big problem indeed

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[unknown4u]

same as in europe, they will inspect the systems in the nearby future if the car is equipped with it.
So the resistors must be placed instead of a working airbag.
But for me the mainreason is to eliminate the big ! and I hate that some elements that does not work on a car where I paid for.

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[jfrahm]

<!--quoteo(post=76717:date=Aug 3 2009, 11:17 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 3 2009, 11:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->you would do this because it would otherwise throw a fault code, making it more difficult to diagnose other issues, since you would have to get past that one to see the others - also, cutting the wire to the airbag light does not eliminate the "!" - you definitely do not want to cut the wire to that, as it would preclude the ability to know that you had another fault

for $3 why not eliminate it as an issue? sure, you could still trigger it if you did something dumb (as i have done in the past), but the idea of not having the big warning light is potentially dangerous<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Cutting the wire as per this thread eliminates the '!' light as caused by an airbag fault. You lose the '!' and the 'Airbag' nags, but you also lose the airbag test indication at startup. The '!' still works for the other warning indications.

If the airbag faults are still visible to the Hammer, as I suppose they would be, you could just ignore them when you run the diags with the Hammer, but diags with a Hammer are not that common at this stage in the 968's life.

With the wire cut, the state inspection would still be a problem, I would not be inclined to try to game them (or disable airbags) myself though.
-Joel.

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[flash]

it's not the hammer that i was concerned with, but rather the blink test - at this point in the car's life, this is something that should be done on a fairly regular basis - a number of the faults do not trigger the warning indicator (for example the variocam) - that process would be complicated by having the airbag code constantly present, as it shows the faults one at a time

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[jfrahm]

<!--quoteo(post=76741:date=Aug 3 2009, 03:34 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Aug 3 2009, 03:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->it's not the hammer that i was concerned with, but rather the blink test - at this point in the car's life, this is something that should be done on a fairly regular basis - a number of the faults do not trigger the warning indicator (for example the variocam) - that process would be complicated by having the airbag code constantly present, as it shows the faults one at a time<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

So... if you clip the wire and you have a stored airbag code, you get the airbag code every time you do a blink test. But you could reset that code with the hammer and hope it never comes back. If it does, no big deal unless you do another blink test. At that point you either ignore the airbag code or get it reset.

If you fake out the airbag system and then reset the code, then you have to hope it does not come back due to a battery issue or cluster work or some sort of airbag wiring fault because then you get the nag and the '!' until you get it reset using the Hammer.

Option 1 at least means you never need to hunt down a hammer unless you are really freaked out by the airbag code from a blink test...

But I thought the blink test was just for CEL fault codes and unrelated to these other systems? I guess I can check later on.

http://www.durametric.com/porsche968faultcodes.aspx

-Joel.

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[flash]

yup - my bad - looks like the airbag is outside that blink test system - not sure if it's outside the hammer or not - that thing does some pretty cool stuff

then i guess snipping it would only be an issue as long as you didn't trip it again and set off the big light, and also assuming that you didn't have to undergo an inspection that checked for it

it just happens that i have the durametric, and just read up on some of the cool stuff it does (until now i had only used it to reset the airbag light) - now i plan to spend some quality time with the laptop and see what it can do

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[Anchorman]

I've never been able to do a blink test. And I'm pretty sure my throttle cable is adjusted to go the max...but I guess I'll check it again, since that seems to be a necessary condition for the blink test to work.

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[PorscheDude]

Bob, IIRC, when Pete hit my car with the Hammer, he told me that my airbag had
been disconnected for 90 hours or something like that.
So that info is stored in the DME.

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[wiseman]

<!--quoteo(post=76755:date=Aug 3 2009, 06:52 PM:name=Anchorman)-->QUOTE (Anchorman @ Aug 3 2009, 06:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I've never been able to do a blink test. And I'm pretty sure my throttle cable is adjusted to go the max...but I guess I'll check it again, since that seems to be a necessary condition for the blink test to work.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Just went thru that the other weekend. Turn the ignition on and flip the Throttle body to the max with your hand and hold for 3 seconds............release slowly and look inside to see if the "Check Engine" is blinking. The bolt stop for the peddle was adjusted too far out on mine to alloow the Throttle Body to open far enough. Blinks like a champ now............LOL......if only I knew how to turn that damn RED ! off.

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[PorscheDude]

The throttle cables stretch over time, leaving one with less than full throttle.

Remove your airbox and have a friend depress the the gas pedal and
check to see if the butterfly in the TB opens 100%. Adjust the cable accordingly.

A good freebie for a little missing power.

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