[Rap]

Put a harness in and you won’t need an airbag.

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[Cloud9...68]

Put a harness in and you won’t need an airbag.

Seriously?  You think I've been blasting around tracks all these years without a harness?!  It was one of the first things I put in.  I want to finally get rid of my slippery air-bomb, er, airbag wheel, and replace it with a more track-oriented wheel, which of couse won't have an airbag.

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[Waylander]

mine came from the factory with a CS steering wheel, so no airbag ECU at all

 

the part 928 652 104 00 is a standard item £17.41 here

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[Cloud9...68]

mine came from the factory with a CS steering wheel, so no airbag ECU at all

 

the part 928 652 104 00 is a standard item £17.41 here

Interesting - so it sounds like this part is the horn contact for a non-airbag wheel, and I'm going to need it, as 986boxster1998 said in his description.  Thanks for the info.

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[Rap]

Please excuse the blank mind. Happens when I read too fast and don’t pay attention!

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[Cloud9...68]

No problem.  Has happened to me more times than I care to admit!  About to head out to Winding Road Racing to pick out a new wheel.  On the advice of several people, I plan to go with a 350 mm wheel, which, among other things, will allow me to more easily see my oil temp gauge, which is currently mostly blocked by my right hand on the stock wheel.

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[DaveN]

FYI I had to put in the resistor for the airbag, order the 928 horn part and the adaptor hub for my 320 Momo Jet wheel.

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[Cloud9...68]

I'm also adding a quick disconnect to mine.  I hope to install it this weekend.

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[Cloud9...68]

hot968, you need Porsche Part # 928-652-104-00 (Horn Contact). If you simply unplug the air bag and don't do any modifications the ari bag / warning light will go off ad soon as the battery is reconnected. The cleanest mod is to insert a 3.0 ohm resistor into the orange plug the the clock spring was plugged into.


Heres a quick run down:

1) Disconnect battery for at least half an hour

2) Remove the two T30 screws holding on the air bag

3) Gently pull on the air bag and it will come forward and carefully unplug the red connector on the back; I always tape over the plug with electic tape when storing air bags

4) Undo the the 24mm bolt holding the wheel on

5) Pull wheel off

6) Remove the two philips screws holding the clockspring on and trace the wiring under the dash this can be easily unpluged

7) Where you unpluged the clock spring from the orange connector is where the 3.0 ohm resistor goes

8) Insert the horn contact part #928-652-104-00


9) Install new wheel (I slide the washer over a screwdriver to help guide it onto the hub

10) Torque 24mm bolt to 34 Ft-Lb

11) Reconnect power and enjoy!


I'll still put together a DIY with pictures over the weekend.

<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;">I received my new Momo Model 78 350 mm track wheel a few days ago, and I'm working on the install.  The installation itself is pretty straightforward, but some of it is not making sense to be, mostly how to connect the horn, so I have several questions:


<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;"> 


<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;">1.  First and foremost, I'm a little confused by step 7.  In fact, I don't understand it at all. The clock spring is not connected to the orange (red?) connector (which I assume means the connector to the air bag unit).  I assume what is meant by this instruction is that the resistor goes across the wires leading to the air bag connectors, to "trick" whatever computer monitors this into thinking the air bag is still connected.  But this leads me to my next question:


<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;"> 


<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;">2.  There are two wires connected to the air bag connector, a blue one with a white stripe, and a brown one with a white stripe.  The clock spring has three wires connected to it, and inexplicably, two of them have identical coloring (two brown wires with a white stripe, in addition to a blue wire with a white stripe).  I assume one of the brown/white wires goes to the air bag, and the other one to the horn.  Any idea which is which?  Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;"> 

<p style="margin:0in 0in .0001pt;">


   

 

3.  I'm assuming the part referred to in step 8, which I've ordered, replaces the stock clock spring, which on my car is part number 928-652-211-11.  If so, how is it attached?  Its post fits into one of the holes in the face plate where the wheel attaches (the one at the one o'clock position relative to the splined shaft, with the horizontal opening running through its center), but it just flops in the breeze when I place it into this hole.  Does the act of attaching the adapter hold it into place sufficiently?  

 

   

 

4.  I'm also confused about the horn wiring.  Unlike the stock clock spring, there is no electrical connection to part 928-652-104-00;  it's just a wiper connector.  So, once I figure out how to install this part, and once I identify the horn's hot wire, what do I connect this wire to?  The horn button on my new wheel has two connectors, and of course when I press the horn button, contact it made between these two connectors, so one of the connectors must connect to the hot wire, and the other to ground somehow.

 

I understand this is conceptually very simple - I just need to run a hot wire, and a ground wire, to the horn button's connector.  My main question really boils down to how to connect that funny-looking wiper connector I bought.  Thanks.

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks to a link I found to a procedure by none other than long-departed-from-this-forum Dave Greimann (aka possibly the smartest person ever to have owned a 968, or any other Porsche), I got most of this figured out.   I've installed the wiper connector (part number 928-652-104-00 - per Dave, it just needed a firm push into the hole I identified), have found the connector 968Boxster1998 was referring to and have placed a 3 ohm resist across its leads, and this narrowed down the wire that's got +12V when the key is on, which should constitute the "hot" lead to the horn button.  Here's how it looks:

 

   

 

The other connector on the back of the horn button should go to ground, which should be established via the wire coming from the hub adapter which is attached to the conductive strip on the back of the adapter, which pushes against the wiper connector shown in the picture above, which should be grounded.  Here's a picture of the wiper connector next to the hub adapter, which shows everything I'm describing:

 

   

 

Just one problem:  when I place my voltmeter between the hot wire and the wiper connector with the key in the on position, I get no reading.  The wiper connector is not connected to ground, in other words.  When I touch the ground lead on my voltmeter against the steering shaft, or any other chassis ground, I get a solid 12+ volts.  Any ideas what to check or try next?  I've never been an avid horn user, so I can't say with certainty whether the horn ever worked correctly with the stock wheel, but it seems strange for ground to have disappeared as the failure mechanism.

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[Ryan]

Cloud,

 

You never realize how much you miss your horn till you don't have one. The horn in my truck is broken and now there are all these people asleep when the light turns green and all I can do is scream.

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[Cloud9...68]

Yeah, gotta have the horn.  I've figured it all out, and least in theory.  It turns out the hole the wiper contactor goes into is actually connected to a source of +12V, not ground as I had thought.  I don't understand the function of the +12V brown/white wire that's connected to the stock clock spring you can see hanging in my picture above.  The steering shaft itself forms a good ground, so the hub adapter and the quick release that's now bolted to it will make for a good ground connector, but getting everything I need to connect up within the very limited space inside the quick release has proven to be quite a challenge.  I worked the entire weekend on this stupid wheel install!  But I have an idea (it's always best to step away from a frustrating problem to clear your head) that I think will make it all hang together, so I should have wheel, horn, and quick release all installed and functioning soon.

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[94SilverCab]

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[ds968]

Lol, great to know you can still find OE parts for the Ford model T .

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[Cloud9...68]

I finally finished it.  I must be the first person in the history of the world to install a racing wheel with a quick disconnect into an airbag-equipped 968 or 944, with the intent of retaining the horn, because it turned out to be quite a little project, but everything finally works as it should.  It turns out that brown/white wire hanging down to the right in Post # 30, which is connected to +12V keyed, has no purpose in this install.  I'm not sure what it goes to - possibly the air bag.  So, my assumption that the wiper connector is connected to ground was incorrect - it's actually hot as well.  Once I figured that out, all I had to do was find a suitable ground for the horn.  I ended up using the quick disconnect, which is bolted to the hub adapter, which is bolted to the grounded steering shaft.  Making that ground connection in the tight confines between the quick disconnect and the back of the horn was tricky, and I'm not completely thrilled with my solution, but it works.  If it comes loose, I have a Plan B.

 

Anyway, here's how it looks:

 

   

 

The angle at which I took this picture makes it look like the wheel blocks the view of several of the gauges, but it really doesn't, because I sit so low in the racing seat that I can easily see the gauges through the wheel.  Since the new wheel is 1.5" smaller in diameter than the old one, my right hand doesn't block the view of my console-mounted oil temperature gauge.  And most important, there's non 1st-generation air bomb to go off in my face when I land after getting slightly airborne going down Driveway Austin's version of the famous corkscrew turn at Laguna Seca.

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