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Cambelt change
#61

If you think about it, the tensioner will not affect the position of the the two balance shafts relative to one another. Going CW the belt goes from the top bal. shaft, to the crank pulley, to the bottom bal. shaft. You can only change this relationship one cog at a time. Only the amount of stretch in the belt along this part will make a differnece. But, this should be minimal.



Also, I think someone posted pics on one of Clouds threads that show the right relationship of the excentric on the lower adjustment idler to the other rollers. You need to have it orientated this was to be able to achieve the .5mm clearance with the top idler while setting the interference with the belt at 0 - 1 mm.
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#62

Hey guys,



Just a question from a rookie;



I am doing the cambelt and balance bel replacement aswell.



Good advice to buy this flywheel lock, I will see if this can be purchased here in the Netherlands. I too could not get this 24mm bolt off, it is torqued with 210Nm!



My garage told me to us a micrometer to find the exact <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym> point, before installation the cambelt. But I was thinking, if you find the marks on the flywheel and camshaft and do not move the previously mentioned, while removing the belt, no adjustment should be necessary, isn't it?



Gtz



Martijn
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#63

Yes, once you find the marks on the flywheel, confirm with the marks on the distributor housing, and lock the engine in place with the flywheel lock, no further adjustment is necessary. That's the beauty of the flywheel lock - once you put it in place, you no longer have to worry about anything important moving during the job. Good luck, take it slow, ask lots of questions, and kudos for taking this job on yourself.
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#64

pretty sure the guy i sent the drawing to so he could make a flywheel lock lives in the netherlands. he made one from the drawing, and might loan it out. do some searching here and you should turn it up. i think is screen name is "unknown4u"
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#65

I use a long piece of electrical conduit pipe with an ID that slides over a 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the 24mm crankshaft nut.
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#66

[quote name='Lear35A' timestamp='1370790705' post='143958']

I use a long piece of electrical conduit pipe with an ID that slides over a 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the 24mm crankshaft nut.

[/quote]

What he said...
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#67

I bump the starter with my 24" breaker bar on it.
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#68

Flash you have a good memory. I made the flywheellock from your drawing. for the tiptronic at that time. Long time ago.........
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#69

lol - apparently not that good, since i forgot it was for the tiip
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#70

IIRC, there are two different Flywheel Locks, one is for the Tiptronic (Auto) and one for Standard Shift (Clutch).



Cheers,

Larry
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#71

correct
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#72

I am doing my belt replacement aswell. I have bought the 9206/1 tool in the UK at Porscheshop.com for 115 Euros.



You have to install it in place of the startermotor. The tool slides onto the flywheel teeth and lockes with a pin into the startermotor shaft recess. Then you lock the tool with the startermotor bolts.



The problem I have now, is that I cannot get the 24mm bolt of the crankshaft gear at the from of the engine. It is torqued incredibly tight. I am using a 250 nm torque wrench, a small extension and a low 24mm socket. I will try again with a long 24mm socket without an extension, see if I can get the play out a bit more.



Any suggestions?
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#73

[quote name='***968CS93***' timestamp='1371390904' post='144440']

I am doing my belt replacement aswell. I have bought the 9206/1 tool in the UK at Porscheshop.com for 115 Euros.



You have to install it in place of the startermotor. The tool slides onto the flywheel teeth and lockes with a pin into the startermotor shaft recess. Then you lock the tool with the startermotor bolts.



The problem I have now, is that I cannot get the 24mm bolt of the crankshaft gear at the from of the engine. It is torqued incredibly tight. I am using a 250 nm torque wrench, a small extension and a low 24mm socket. I will try again with a long 24mm socket without an extension, see if I can get the play out a bit more.



Any suggestions?

[/quote]





Yes. Don't use your torque wrench to loosen stuff. Buy a breaker bar. What I use is a 1/2" sliding T-bar wrench. If that doesn't give me enough leverage, I've got various lengths of steel piping that I can slip over the end of the bar to easily get more.
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#74

Super, I will get one tomorrow. The breaker bar I have in the toolkit is too small. I will get an extension aswell. Tnx!
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#75

Thanks all of you guys for your advice!



I will keep you updated of my little project. I bought the waterpump, gasket, thermostat as well.
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#76

Yes, don't hesitate to ask questions, as there are many people here who have done this job. It's not terribly difficult, just time consuming, and there are a few steps that are a little tricky the first time. Kudos to taking on this job yourself - it will save you a TON of money, and teach you a lot about the car.
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#77

Tnx, your right about the costs. The garage charged me Euros 1600, just for the belt change, with rollers. Now I payed Euros 228,- for the belts and rollers, Euro 223,- for the waterpump and another Euro 50 for the thermostat and packing.



I think the camshaft and variocam system inspection will be more complicated than the belt replacement. But that is something for later to worry about, let's finish this first.
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#78

first of all, do check the cams before you mount the new belts. Now you have the opportunity to demontage the camshafts!! and inspect them fully about wearness and the lower pads as well.

It is not something to worry about later. Do it now! don't spoil the extra time, within 20 minutens you have inspected them!
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#79

Demontage?
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#80

Good call Utrecht, I will.



In the ens I took the big Crankshaft bolt off with an extended breakerbar and short extension. It was extremely well tensioned!
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