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Cam Problem After Replacing Pads
#1

For the last few days I have been doing a front end reseal and chain guide replacement. I was completing the job and as a last check went to rotate the engine by hand. The engine would not move more than a couple of degrees before coming difficult to turn. The stop was not a hard clunk; it was a soft stretching of the belts. My first thought was that I got <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym> wrong and a valve was hitting but I don’t think that’s the problem. All the marks I made on the belt pulley and on the cams line up, so I’m pretty sure that its aligned as it was when I shut it down to do this job.



I removed the valve cover and noticed that when I turn the motor the intake (lower) cam moves, the chain moves but the exhaust cam (upper) does not rotate thus pulling the bottom of the chain tight. The piston on the upper chain guide pushes up as the tension on the lower chain pad increases. The only problem I can see is that the upper cam seems to be sitting just slightly to the right of the bearing shells and might be interfering somewhere.



I intend to put the lock back in and remove the cams tomorrow but any ideas would be helpful.
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#2

Did you mix up or reverse any cam caps?
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#3

[quote name='jfrahm' timestamp='1357703293' post='137208']

Did you mix up or reverse any cam caps?

[/quote]

My thought exactly. The numbers should be on the outside end of the cap. You will also notice a number stamped into the head which matches the appropriate cam cap.
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#4

No I made sure that the caps were correct but I will double check.

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#5

So you say that the intake cam moves when you turn the motor?



Sounds strange. The intake cam should be driven off the chain from the exhaust cam, and driven by the belt via the crank. If this cam is moving when you turn the motor:



1 - How? If the exhaust cam is not moving, the timing belt can't move far. Is the crank only taking up timing belt slack?

2 - Why? Why is the intake cam moving without being turned by the chain? Are some valves resting on a piston?



You should be able to visually see if any of the valves are down and which pistons are up. A chopstick down the plug hole will help you verify <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym> and you can see which valves are open by the position of the cam.
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#6

When you reinstalled the cams after changing the pads.

1 #1 piston at <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym>.

2 Indicator arrows ( in front of the cam gears) on top of the cams.

3 Cam lobes, on #1 cylinder pointed inward twords each other at about 45 degrees.

4 Number of chain links between the two cam gears.



What did you use to pull the cams down into the saddles.
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#7

First, I need to correct myself as you look at the engine it is the upper cam the one driven by the chain that was not moving.



Since I posted i removed the cams and reinsstalled them. When I first installed the cams with the new chain quides, I had made a tool from music wire to hold the tensioner compressed. I removed this tool after putting the chain and tensioner on the cams. I then installed the cams in the head. Since the chain with the tensioner is pulling the cams toward the center getting the cams to settle in is not easy. I feel that I might have jammed the cam when I put them back in.



This time I completely installed the cams and tightened them down to 15 ftlbs before releasing the tension tool. The cams seem to be moving freely but I won't know untill I have the belts reinstalled and the flywheel lock removed
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#8

Hand cranking with car in neutral, and flywheel lock out, correct? Trying to think of other possible issue.... Any updates from your end? -Scott
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