[Ernie]

My dome light doesn't light up when you open the doors. It does illuminate when you switch it forward or backward. I have replaced the door switches and gaskets as well as relay 94461511202 which would make intermittant "clicking" noises, even when the car was not running. I did some searching and have not come across an answer. Any suggestions? Thanks

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[wildcat]

Do you get a beeping from opening the doors with the key in the ignition? First thing I'd do is pull the light unit from the windshield beam and look to see if there's a short there or something, or the wires are crossed.

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[flash]

the center position is "off"



one way off center is on with the door, which then shuts off after a few seconds.



the other is on all the time.

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[Ernie]

The wiring looks fine. I have tried the switch in both the "fore" and "aft" positions. I have closed the door and sat in the car and waited a minute or so. It stays on. I don't get a beeping when the door is open and the key is in the ignition though. I have never had a chime with the door open, then again, my dome light has never worked with the door open either. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/glare.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Any other thoughts?

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[Ernie]

I was looking in the fuse box and I dont have a relay at the G8 spot. The relay reads as "warning buzzer (only SA)" on the lid of the box. Does the relay have any relationship to the beeping/buzzing if the doors are open with the key in the ignition, or is it completely unrelated?

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[wildcat]

The warning buzzer is in the fuse box under the dash on the drivers side. The reason I asked about it is, the dome light is wired into the same switch as the door buzzer and the alarm system. Which means you've got to go look at the wiring diagram... and that my friend is not a pleasant prospect.

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[flash]

it's possible you have the wires in the wrong spots. i'll be down in the garage tomorrow and can look at the correct orientation.

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[Ernie]

I have a brown wire on the left toward the front of the car (with a small female terminal), a yellow wire close to the driver seat (with a small female terminal) and a red and yellow on the passenger side (with a larger female terminal). I switched the brown and yellow but got the same result. No buzzer and the light stays on in the fore and aft position. That is the reason I was curious about the absence of the warning buzzer relay. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for the input.

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[wildcat]

In the time delay mode of the light, when you activate the alarm, the light goes off...

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[Ernie]

Wildcat, you hit the nail on the head! Somehow the alarm function had become disabled and getting it to function activated the dome light. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/clap.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> I still don't get a gong with the door open, so I may have to climb under the dash and check out that warning buzzer relay. For future reference, the dome light switch in the forward position is on/off with the doors open and rear position for constant on. Thanks again for the help guys.

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[wildcat]

Terrific! And with it in the forward position, when you deactivate the alarm, the light goes on as well, without even opening the door! What will they think of next... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[wildcat]

I inadvertently discovered another reason the dome light will stay on in the forward (entry delay mode) position. I didn't fully close my trunk and as a result the light wouldn't go out. This indicates that if you have a faulty switch in your trunk, you could turn the dome light on and off but it wouldn't work when opening or closing the door, as its all part of the same circuit. Next thing to check is how it affects the alarm system.

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[wildcat]

Well there it is. If the trunk isn't fully closed, the dome light will stay on AND you can turn on the alarm without any hint that there's a problem from the switch in the trunk, except that the dome light won't go out. Mystery solved. Most curious I must say. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Remotecontroller]

just reviving this thread as I am trying to troubleshoot my dome light.  Right now the constant on switch is the only one that is working (93 cab).  The driver side door jamb switch is working, but no dome light (I haven't checked the passenger side as I figured either side should work).  I did put a meter on the door jamb switch and there is 6 volts coming through one of the wires, which I thought was weird.  I thought the large red and yellow wire was the power source and the other side (forward or back) provide ground.

 

It is mentioned above about the alarm - how can I trouble shoot this?  I know that it armed previously but haven't tried it at the same time as I was trying to troubleshoot the dome light.  I would have hoped that the door jamb switches would always turn the light on or off when opened/closed, but wondering now if this is not the case?

 

Thanks!

 

Ken

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[MCL968]

I had a similar problem with my cab. I cleaned all the switch connections and the connections at the dome light and they started to behave properly. That was a couple of years ago and they continue to work when I open the door. Pull the alarm fuse and see if that changes anything.

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[type968]

When you arm the alarm, does the door light flash slow blinks for fast.

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[Remotecontroller]

I will check it tonight!

 

Thanks

 

Ken

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[Waylander]

the clicking of the relay is the power window relay, as the windows become powered with the door open and no key in the ignition.

 

the door switches if they are a bit suspect will cause the power window relay to chatter, even with the door shut.

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[Remotecontroller]

OK so I locked the driver door with the key and the alarm light in the lock knob blinks slowly.  When I unlocked/disarmed the alarm with the key, the dome light started working in the "door open" mode (it wouldn't before - only worked in the "always on" mode), but I need to test it again once I get home tonight to see if it still works.  Basically I just want it to work anytime the door is opened, regardless of what is going on with the alarm.  Does anybody know why I am getting 6 volts of power from the door jamb switch?  Is this "leakage" coming from the alarm system?

 

thanks in advance as always!

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[Remotecontroller]

I think I know what the problem is now - The day I tested the dome light is also the day I swapped in an RS Barn stage 1 chip.  I had not locked the doors since reconnecting the battery so perhaps until the alarm was cycled on and off for the first time after being disconnected it didn't know what to do (since the alarm is attached to the dome light).  Again, I will check function again now that the alarm has been cycled at least once and let y'all know.

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