[rl968]

Calling Flash, what's the proper procedure to tighten the pump and tensioner? Was at the track this weekend and the front bracket that connects the tensioner sheered off, taking part of the tensioner with it. The tensioner was the performance one from RSbarn, which was even more surprising as I thought that would alleviate stress. This is now the fourth time I've had the tensioner break, first time the bracket has broken. Also, where can I get the front bracket besides Pelican, which wants $81 for a triangular piece of metal? Was driving manually most of the weekend, not so bad actually.



Interestingly and unrelated, I had the O2 sensor blow off today and exhaust was coming through the front vents when it blew. It's just hanging there now. I can post pics tomorrow. Pretty scary as I thought it was an engine problem, exhaust sounds terrible with that hole there now.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

the tensioner sheared off??? that should not be possible, assuming you did not overextend the heims, and the assembly was SQUARE with the belt. if the bracket is bent, you are going to break any tensioner. if the belt is too long, you are going to break any tensioner.



email me your phone number, and we can figure this out.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rl968]

Sorry, I don't think my post was entirely clear. The triangular bracket on the front of the pump has three mounting holes, two on the top that mount to the pump and a third one that mounts to the tensioner. The hole that the tensioner mounts to has broken/sheered a piece off, dislodging the tensioner. Tensioner now cant be reconnected and ill need a new bracket. Tensioner itself looks to still be in tact, but bolt and nut are gone. Why would the bracket Break like that? I can't get a camera in there to get a good shot right now. I remember you posting somewhere about a tightening sequence, tension belt first, then tighten the mounts or is that backwards??

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

it would break because it was bent, and then got tensioned while bent. it is a bad design, and extremely critical that the pulley be exactly parallel and in line with the crank pulley. it is very common that the bracket gets bent, and the pulley is kicked a few degrees. it takes very little to throw it off, and result in stresses that break the bracket.



you have the sequence correct.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

If it helps anybody reading this visualize this, I believe this is the piece RL is talking about:



   



I've been wondering about how my car would drive without the power steering. I've removed a ton (OK, not literally a ton) of weight off the front end (fixed headlight conversion, fiberglass hood, removed bumper, removed windshield washer reservoir, etc.), but I'm also going with 18-8.5" wheels with 255/35 tires, so I'm curious as to how it would drive at the track in manual mode. I'll try disconnecting the belt as a test.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rl968]

No, that's not the piece. The piece im referring to is on the pump itself. below is a diagram from Pet, it's the triangular piece to the left of the number 17. Part number is 944 101 147 01 or 02. $84!!!



It drives fine on the track without the belt, even better in some cases as I think you have better road feel. It's not fun off the track as its a bear to turn the wheel at slow speed.







Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

yeah - that's the piece i thought you were talking about. like i said, it happens a lot. not sure how it gets bent, but it does. maybe it's from over-tightening. that belt doesn't need to be all that tight, but i am constantly finding it cranked tight on other cars.



i would not drive it without the pump. you are very likely to blow seals and have to rebuild everything.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rl968]

Thanks Flash. When I remove the two upper bolts that hold that piece to the pump will fluid come out or are they just mounting bolts. Also, any thoughts on where to get the part, it's special order on Pelican, which is why I think it's so expensive. It's a 944 part so I would think there should be a lot of them out there used.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i'll look at it this morning, but i think it's just a plate, and those bolts just hold it on.



once it's off, you could have it welded at your local muffler shop, and while you're at it, reinforced so it doesn't happen again.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rl968]

I finally got around to this. Here are some pics of the broken bracket. The stock tensioners are notoriously weak so I upgraded to the RS barn tensioner and while this survived, the weak point now seems to be this bracket. How can I reinforce the bracket? And, if I do reinforce the bracket, where is the next weak point...the pump itself, the mounting bolts shown in pics or maybe the mounts coming down from the engine?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lear35A]

I've tensioned and un tensioned this belt literally dozens of times in the last couple of years without problems. I'm not sure what would have caused yours to fail. Any vibration issues like untimed balance shafts? If not, I'd just have a machine shop make a new one. Bet it lasts a long time.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rl968]

[quote name='Lear35A' timestamp='1352680339' post='134729']I've tensioned and un tensioned this belt literally dozens of times in the last couple of years .[/quote]



Do you track your car?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lear35A]

No, I just take the engine in and out a lot. I don't see a failure mode of the bracket plate in shear. It could break under torsion or vibration, but those aren't track usage specific.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.