How do I tell what size is on the car; 36mm or 40mm? I bought parts at the dealer for an upcoming brake job but received two different types of vibration dampers. I'm guessing the bags just got mixed up in their parts bins as they are definitely different part numbers - says so right on bag. Needless to say, I can return them but would like to make sure I get the right part #'s prior to leaving this time. PET says 964.351.096.01 for 36mm and 964.351.096.02 for 40mm. Are the fronts and rears the same? As far as I know, the car is all stock, but I can't find any reference in PET to different sizes used for different years or anything. Thanks!
- Darryl
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
i just overhauled all my calipers this summer. pretty tough job in my case because all the pistons were frozen in their seals. then the spring plates were corroded onto the calipers as well.
i can say from experience that there are four different size pistons in this car.
i don't have my paperwork in front of me. paragon products could tell you what size they are in about 10 seconds because they sell all the replacement seals you need.
good luck getting the pistons out. hopefully they won't be stuck like mine were!
a lot of people are replacing their brake lines when they remove their calipers. not sure if you've already done that, but you may want to switch to the stainless steel ones.
one more thing - i switched my pads to metal masters and i am not running the anti-squeal shims with them. i haven't had a sqeal problem at all. those shims are pretty expensive. you may want to try running w/o them and see what happens. the big advantage to not using them is that removing your pads later is a piece of cake since those metal cup thingies don't retain the pad
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
To get the pistons out, compressed air is your new friend. I hooked up the compressor (little Sears tire inflater) to the bleed screw. You must cap the opening where the brake line comes into the caliper.
Now, slowly and carefully, with no fingers in the way, wearing eye protection, etc. You add a little pressure. They will shoot out of the bores like rockets if you let them.
I followed the advice of another and "shimmed" the space between the cylinders so that all 4 pistons would extend evenly and just to the point wear I could remove them the rest of the way by hand (just before they pass the seal ring in the bore).
It worked pretty well. I installed new spring plates (if you ever want to get pads in/out easily, you'll need to do this) and popped those donated M030 calipers on last week. So far, so good.
I also did the stainless steel brake lines (track car) and changed a few other things.
The little screws that hold the spring plates in are EVIL. You will be very proud of your mechanical ability if you can get them out. Ask me how I know...
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Yes sir! You'll need adapters (I used the ones from Racers Edge via Paragon Products), it's a direct bolt on. Corresponding rotors and pads... and you're off to the races.
If the weather holds, I'll be at the track this weekend and hopefully will have a chance to work them to their potential.
If you keep the splash guards, they may need to be bent just the slightest bit in a place or two in order to keep it from rubbing on the rotor.
The PET shows the splash guard as the same P/N for both standard and M030 front brakes. Thus, I left it on. I also don't mind that it may provide a "heat shield" to the front ball joint on that side. We'll see if that's wise or if I should just ditch them in exchange for a bit more air/rotor cooling.
I am hoping that the brake upgrade will keep me from having to spend the last half of a 90-minute enduro with both feet on the brake pedal coming into turn 5 at Road America :0
We'll see.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Since we're talking brakes here...for a while, I've been wondering if there's a benefit to putting 40mm/36mm calipers on the rear of the 968 (match the fronts) and utilizing the stock bias valve. I would think it would add just enough bias to the rear and increase braking ability. Anyone tried it?
Question...for those whom have the big reds up front, do you move your 40mm/36mm calipers to the rear?
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
(This post was last modified: 09-27-2005, 02:31 AM by rustech.)
