[flash]

not really - i think it took me an hour to change them, and with the motive power bleeder, about 15 minutes to bleed them - that included clean up time

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[Ryan]

Yeah.. but we all know your practicing for a pit-crew.

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[flash]

lol - been there done that - but i keep up on my skills to keep my crew honest - they have to be at least as fast as me to get paid

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[benspeeder]

Talking about brakes - hows this for bad luck - I order rotors from an online company for a great price $165 front and rear and pad from another company - again great price $68 F&R. The front rotors weren't even close to the right size, nor were the rear pads! What a bust - car is still up on stands waiting for replacement parts to be shipped.

At least I got the rear rotors installed and the front pads in the calipers. Went over the front bearings - they looked brand new. Repacked with fresh Redline grease.

At least both companies were cool and will do exchanges and ship for free.

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[rhudeboye]

If you had an extra man for the job, would you guys still use the bleeder?

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[doster]

Thats Nuts!!      

Buy a power bleeder and do it yourself, the rears take a few minutes more due to the location but not hard at all
as flash said, youll save a ton of money and have the satisfaction after your done.

And the brakes are even easier!!

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[benspeeder]

I have a power bleeder - his name is Christian and he's my 11 year old son! I had another unit that was almost as good called a wife - but service was intermittent and sometimes caused headaches from a noise I identified called, "ARE YOU DONE YET?"

The power bleeding works best on my wallet :-)


PS - just went to the beggining of the post and I was suprised at the costs of parts. I'm going the ebay route and buying just plain old street stuff - no performance gear. I'll do my whole brake job for less than $250. Glad I read through - I am going to paint the hats because at the price I paid there can't be any plating protection.

This is one job you owe it to yourself to teach yourself - save a ton of $$ and very satisfying. I will also paint the calipers which are looking shot. I suppose I could send them out to be powder coated for $400....or paint them myself for $40.

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[Anchorman]

If anyone is interested, I have a pair of stock front calipers that have been coated silver - excellent condition. Also have stock black fronts and rears.

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[doster]

a couple of years ago when I got the zimmermans I painted the caps with VHT clear and they still look like new, they look better than
the hats that I've painted silver in the past and the VHT is rated for high temps.

Just thaught I'd add another option to the list.

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[rhudeboye]

<!--quoteo(post=70244:date=Apr 11 2009, 06:07 AM:name=benspeeder)-->QUOTE (benspeeder @ Apr 11 2009, 06:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I have a power bleeder - his name is Christian and he's my 11 year old son! I had another unit that was almost as good called a wife - but service was intermittent and sometimes caused headaches from a noise I identified called, "ARE YOU DONE YET?"

The power bleeding works best on my wallet :-)



This is one job you owe it to yourself to teach yourself - save a ton of $$ and very satisfying.

I suppose I could send them out to be powder coated for $400....or paint them myself for $40.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

I like the way you think. Great post [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

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[benspeeder]

Great idea painting the hats clear. I had one of the rears taped off and I was ready to spray it with silver cliper paint and one of those voices said, "put down the can and take the tape off the rotor..."

Just didn't seem right silver. Painting it clear so it has the clean metal surface - great idea... what kind of heat resistant paint to use?

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[benspeeder]

Great idea painting the hats clear. I had one of the rears taped off and I was ready to spray it with silver cliper paint and one of those voices said, "put down the can and take the tape off the rotor..."

Just didn't seem right silver. Painting it clear so it has the clean metal surface - great idea... what kind of heat resistant paint to use?

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[doster]

<!--quoteo(post=70269:date=Apr 11 2009, 05:04 PM:name=benspeeder)-->QUOTE (benspeeder @ Apr 11 2009, 05:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Great idea painting the hats clear. I had one of the rears taped off and I was ready to spray it with silver cliper paint and one of those voices said, "put down the can and take the tape off the rotor..."

Just didn't seem right silver. Painting it clear so it has the clean metal surface - great idea... what kind of heat resistant paint to use?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

The brand is VHT but I.m sure any high temp clear engine paint will do, It keeps them looking like they just came out
of the box.

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[benspeeder]

Going to exchange the silver for clear today if the store is open (Easter). I'll post a pic when they are done and mounted up.

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[benspeeder]

I painted those rotor hats with a clear engine paint - they will hopefully not rust for at least some period of time. Still like that idea :-)

Here's a weird deal. I installed pads and rotors, repacked the front bearings and went to bleed the brakes. I start with the left rear and get maybe 2-3 pumps worth of fluid and then the pedal will bearly move, even with the bleeder open. Try the right rear and same thing 2-3 pumps and then nothing and a hard pedal ( hard pedal with the bleeder open). I check if the brakes are even working on the rear since for some mysterious reason I can't get fluid. The pads are not depressing on the rotors - do not work.

I check the fronts and the brakes work fine, depress. I decide to try bleeding the left front and get plenty of fluid and the operation seems normal.

During the pad change I opened the bleeders to depress the pistons since I would be flusing the whole system. Possible I got a tiny bit of air in there but I was pretty careful. Don't think that could cause this rear brake problem.

It's as if the brake fluid is not under any pressure at the rear when you depress the brake pedal. The pedal is hard.

I have driven this car maybe 60 miles since its been sitting for years and the brakes felt fine although were ready for replacement. I think the rear brakes were working before the brake job but its possible the rear brakes were inoperable and I didn't notice while driving the car briefly.

What the heck could cause the rear brakes to not get any pressure while the fronts do get pressure?

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[wmuldowney]

[quote name='benspeeder' date='Apr 11 2009, 05:07 AM' post='70244']
I have a power bleeder - his name is Christian and he's my 11 year old son! I had another unit that was almost as good called a wife - but service was intermittent and sometimes caused headaches from a noise I identified called, "ARE YOU DONE YET?"

The power bleeding works best on my wallet :-)


LMAO on this one.

I decided to go ahead a do a complete brake job when the Idiot Light came on. Ordered the cross drilled/plated rotors and a pad set. Fun begins this weekend.

Thanks to all.
This thread was very helpful.

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