[sasilverbullet]

and put the old one in the glove box. Here's the symptoms...



When accelerating hard up through 4th gear, there seemed to be two "burps". One around 3800 rpm, the other around 4900ish.



I ran it hard a bunch this morning on the way to work, absolutely NO burps at all!



And it idles smoother now with the AC on!

<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Greimann]

Very interersting that a new DME realy fixed a poor running condition as opposed to a NOT running condition. It must be intermittent contact that caused it?

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[sasilverbullet]

corroded contacts in relays can cause strange problems...could have been some arcing also.

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[94SilverCab]

I ordered my new DME relay from Paragon the other day (warm start trouble) and plan on plugging it this weekend if it arrives ($27 incl. shipping seems much more reasonable than the $235 invoice from Porsche last time, thank you 968Forums).



Anything special that I need to know other than pull out the old one, clean the contacts, plug in the new one?



As you can tell, I won't win any "Mechanic of the year" awards...but I hope to learn a little more every day.



Thank you all for making 968 ownership even more fun.



Jay

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[sasilverbullet]

Nope, nothing fancy. Just pull the old one out and plug the new one in.



You might want to plug the new one in and out a few times. That will clean the contacts in the fuse panel.

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[968 Cab]

[quote name='sasilverbullet' date='Jul 14 2005, 07:30 PM']You might want to plug the new one in and out a few times.  That will clean the contacts in the fuse panel.

[right][post="7409"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I have done this on all 3 of our 944/951/968 cars and it DOES WONDERS.... after 10+ years the spring contacts on these cars are getting a little "set in their ways" as it were. Removing and plugging fuses and relays back in a few times worked for me.



I've also had a lot of success cleaning the contacts inside the relays - it is easy to remove the plastic cases from many of the relays which would otherwise be replaced. Just fold a thin strip of 600-1000 grit paper into a double sided strip and run it between the contacts to clean off arcing and corrosion. At least you will have a back up for DME etc for the glovebox.



Same with going around and tightening up the various grounds in the car - it's a common fault for the instrument panel for example, and easy to do. If you have some dieletric grease, that really works well in areas where the grounds are exposed to the elements - underhood around the headlights for example. Just undo the grounding bolts, clean off the contactsl, apply a little dielectric grease and reinstall.

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[sasilverbullet]

Speaking of grounds - is there a diagram or words describing where the grounds are on our cars?

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[flash]

yes - it's in the manual - go to the DIY section

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[Greimann]

[quote name='sasilverbullet' date='Jul 15 2005, 06:23 AM']Speaking of grounds - is there a diagram or words describing where the grounds are on our cars?

[right][post="7414"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

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[sasilverbullet]

Thanks Greimann...

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[SANDOVAL]

That image needs to be in the DIY section great find.

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[Anchorman]

What would really make that diagram superb is if someone could link it with digital photos that showed the physical location of each ground point. Any volunteers?

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[sasilverbullet]

Well, I'll try this weekend. I've got some spare time tomorrow and I need to tighten all my grounds anyway...

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[Anchorman]

Take those photos, and show all of us where the grounds really are.

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[Cloud9...68]

Yes, it would be great if somebody could link photos to Dave's diagram. For those who have had grounding problems with their cars, what symptoms do you get? Erratic gauge readings? Anything else? And any recommendations on a good dielectric grease? Or just go to the local auto parts store and ask? Thanks.



By the way, my plug wires were backordered, so it may be a little while before I have an update on whether they will help my hesitation problem.

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[968 Cab]

Ground points are pretty obvious on our cars, save for the main negative cable bellhousing ground (important to TAPE OVER / COVER the clutch inspection hole - at least on 944's cause you don't want to drop that 10mm nut down there!). The HL grounds are easy, and if you poke around in the engine compartment you can see most of the other ground points.



Most of these grounds are light brown 8 gauge wiring with lug terminals - usually grouped together. The HL grounds are the easiest to see for an example.



I've added an extra heavy ground strap from engine block to chassis and that helped the HL voltages a lot.



Inside the car, look under the steering column area from below and you will find the main instrument panel grounds grouped together near the foglight switch area. That one will help the erratic panel lighting. Not so sure on the PS, but I'm sure that if you pull back the carpeting to expose the DME/KLR boxes you will find more grounds.



At the tail, pull up the trunk matt and you will find a series of grounds around both taillights.



If you unbolt these, clean off the terminals with a little light sandpaper, and apply dielectric grease (any good electronics shop, and probably even Radio Shack will have it - pretty cheap too) and apply a thin coating before reassembling everything.



Just for interest, take a voltage reading at the HL at various engine speeds - idle, 1000, 2000, 3000 rpm before and after doing the HL grounds and main bellhousing ground. You will be surprised at the voltage drops before and after.



Best bet - check out Dan Wray's "Full Boat Lighting" upgrades over on Rennlist / 944 forums. (check out examples at http://www.gururacing.net/LightUpgrade.html) These are amazing cables sets with full relays, 90/100W bulbs, fused links etc that really improve the voltage delivery in our aging cars. Takes the heavy current loads off the thin wiring and switches too. The last photo is a shot of my 951S with 90/100 HL and the 100/60 fog/DL euro lens set up. That provides over 500W light output for those dark nights - and cars move over pretty quickly when they get a "flash" to pass! (The main HL have those great Cibie E code lens from Iceshark with a really sharp cut off so they are NOT glaring for the cars ahead.)



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[sasilverbullet]

I just re-did groudpoints III and VI (according to the diagram above) and took good before and after pics - this is going to take a LONG while to get all the grounds!



I'll be posting them a little later - I think I'll get this done a couple of ground points at a time...

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[Larry Currie]

Where is the DME located? Is it in the fuse box under the hood?

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[sasilverbullet]

Yes - It's listed on the underside of the fuse box cover.

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