[Sedge]

No problem Dave...I guess that's how we can get in to unexplored areas. I finally had to give up on the ignition switch replacement. I got the steering wheel off, but could not figure out how to get the control lever module off (wiper, high beam and cruise control levers). The workshop manual conveniently skips this step, and I could not find any retaining fasteners...the ignition switch housing is behind this module. I haven't seen any description of this on the internet either. Decided to quit while I was still ahead and pay someone that knows what they're doing. I know this will be expensive, but I'll spend the time doing something I know how to do! In the meantime, the car runs, but the accessories that run through the switch (convertible top, headlights, etc.) either don't work or only work intermittently.
Sedge

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[Anchorman]

Sedge, if you're still willing to tackle this job, I can send you the instructions I used for replacing the dash board - which, of course, includes doing the dismantling that you're interested in.

To quote the specific section:
13) Now you have to remove the turn signal/wiper control assembly. This is all one unit and is mounted to the steering column by a collar and one bolt.
14) Note the position of this assembly on the steering column.
15) Loosen the collar bolt. I think it is a 10mm.
16) Slide the assembly off the steering column disconnecting the wiring harness as you go.

Jim

PS - I just found this photo, hope it helps. Getting the rubber "boot" off, and then back on, without breaking it is a challenge I never solved. I ended up cutting the old one off, and cutting the new one to put it on after which I glued the cut edges together.
   

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[DaveN]

I just went through this dilemma as well - rubber boot that is. The PO had a damaged one so when I discovered it this winter I ordered one from a dismantler. When it came I noticed it had been cut and glued back together! I called them and they acted a bit surprised (yea right) but I told them I would try the one they sent anyway. Well there is no way I could figure out how to get the new one on as the signal arms are just too long - so the glue ripped open trying to stretch it on. I ended up testing a few glues to find one that would hold. The rubber Porsche uses seems like it's silicon based and almost nothing sticks to it especially a strechy butt joint. Long story short the easiest way was to cut the turn signal side, slip on the boot and use Loctite superglue for the butt joint after it's all in place.

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[Anchorman]

The instructions for the dash replacement talked about warming the boot first by soaking in hot water. I did that, but there was still no way I could get it on without the surgical help of a cut and then glue.

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[biotechee]

Same here. Cut and glue. Did it in the coupe. Expect to do it in the cab as well.

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[flash]

really? mine was easy - hmmm - i wonder what the deal is there?

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[biotechee]

You're super strong and can sweet talk the rubber into doing your bidding....?!

You could never tell I glued the one on the coupe unless you actually took off the steering wheel. As a matter of fact, the bond wore out and I just left it that way- stayed in perfectly without needing more glue.

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[flash]

lol - hardly - i'm usually the clumsy one that rips anything like that just by getting near it with a tool - mine is really soft pliable rubber though, so i'm not sure what is going on there

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[Anchorman]

I'd characterize mine also as soft and pliable - but not sufficiently stretchable!

Remember, everyone, stay on topic!

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[Sedge]

Thanks, Jim. I sent you a PM re: your offer on the dashboard removal.
-Sedge

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[Sedge]

So, if anyone is still following this thread...I found replacement screws for securing the airbag assembly in the steering wheel at Lowe's. They are allen head vs. the Torx head, but work just as well, and only $1 for a pair. Size is M5x1"

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[Anchorman]

Good job. I'm about to see if I can do something similar on the driver's door handle retaining screw. The current one apparently got messed up when the car was painted to years ago, and they put in a non-stock screw that has now stripped. As a result, the handle isn't held rigidly in place, and it's very difficult to open the door. I have a replacement handle, but I'll try lots of tricks before I resort to that.

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[biotechee]

Jim-

Have you tried a good set of vice grips? If you can get a grip on the bolt, you should be able to back it out with the vice grips. It will take some time to get it all the way out, but it should work....

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[Anchorman]

I can get the bolt out without any problem - and that's the problem. It's not gripping the handle, as the threads in the handle are stripped. Thus, the handle moves slightly, making it difficult to open the door. I need to create new threads in the handle, to fit whatever replacement bolt I get.

(I guess we've hijacked this thread, but I think the original objectives of the thread have been met - how nice.)

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[SILVY968]

<!--quoteo(post=69812:date=Apr 2 2009, 06:07 PM:name=Anchorman)-->QUOTE (Anchorman @ Apr 2 2009, 06:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I can get the bolt out without any problem - and that's the problem. It's not gripping the handle, as the threads in the handle are stripped. Thus, the handle moves slightly, making it difficult to open the door. I need to create new threads in the handle, to fit whatever replacement bolt I get.

(I guess we've hijacked this thread, but I think the original objectives of the thread have been met - how nice.)<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

If you don't want to heli coil it you could try taking some fine steel wool and rolling between your fingers so that it is formed into a dowel - like shape. Put it into the stripped hole and then put the screw in, sort of beside it, so the both run the length of the hole. The steel wool will sometimes act as new threads against the screw. It may save you a lot of work.

Brian

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[Anchorman]

Good suggestion, I'll give it a try. Thanks.

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[biotechee]

Ahh! The steel wool is a good idea.

If that doesn't work, retap the threads in the handle. You should be able to get a suitable metric tap that matches the bolt thread from Sears/Snap-On/etc. If the threads are too far gone, you can either try a larger tap if there is enough "meat" in the handle or perhaps tap it with an SAE thread of similar size and use an SAE bolt.

All else fails, you're looking at the new handle (which you already know!).

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[benspeeder]

Man - reading this thread I will never try this - I will drink beer and watch somebody with skills!

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[PorscheDude]

Dash removal
http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-24.htm

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[Anchorman]

I've already done the dash replacement. How about giving me a real challenge - like a door handle?

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