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Airbag removal
#1

OK...I thought I already posted this, but I don't see it, so...
Trying to remove the two Torx screws that hold the steering wheel mounted airbag device...can't seem to break them loose, and afraid of stripping the heads. Does anyone have a magic solution...or at least a tip. I already know about turning the wheel in order to improve the angle of attack...
Thanks,
Sedge
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#2

I just had my virginal screws out. Just a bit of extra oomph as I think they might be Locktighted in? Beware of removing the airbag, I now have the cursed AIRBAG light on and have read enought to know that it is never going away without the 500.00 ODB-I diag box.
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#3

<!--quoteo(post=68136:date=Mar 6 2009, 03:10 PM:name=DaveN)-->QUOTE (DaveN @ Mar 6 2009, 03:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Beware of removing the airbag, I now have the cursed AIRBAG light on and have read enought to know that it is never going away without the 500.00 ODB-I diag box.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

+ 1 on that. Disconnecting the battery for at least 20 min in advance may be the common wisdom, but probably better if you do that at least one hour in advance.. just for safe measure.
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#4

Try tightening the screws, then loosen them. My recollection is that they do have some form of Loctite on them, so they're tough the first time for sure. Obviously, make sure the wrench is well-seated in the head. It also helps if you take advantage of the steering wheel ignition key lock. With the engine not running but the ignition key on, turn the wheel until you have decent access to one screw at the bottom (wheel at about 1/4 turn from straight), then turn the key off and move the wheel until it locks. The extra leverage (compared to trying to hold the wheel) can be very helpful. Also have the handle of the Torx wrench at 90 degrees to the shaft - again, leverage. Then, pray, grunt, and you should find success. Then, turn the wheel 180 degrees so the other screw is at the bottom, and give it the same treatment.
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#5

<!--quoteo(post=68136:date=Mar 7 2009, 12:10 AM:name=DaveN)-->QUOTE (DaveN @ Mar 7 2009, 12:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I just had my virginal screws out. Just a bit of extra oomph as I think they might be Locktighted in? Beware of removing the airbag, I now have the cursed AIRBAG light on and have read enought to know that it is never going away without the 500.00 ODB-I diag box.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->



read the following topic. for resetting the airbaglight and other related information about it
http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=3684

It can be a lot cheaper than 500 dollar.
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#6

Thanks everyone so far. Using a 1/2" drive socket wrench and torx T-30 drive, I got one screw out, but the other one rounded off. I drilled it out and then broke off an EZE-OUT extractor...;-(. Now I'm really screwed. Next step - try to find a machine shop willing to help me get the extractor out.

I knew this would be a difficult project (replacing the ignition switch), but did not expect the first step to be this hard.
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#7

Bummer, Sedge. I've been there, and it's annoying.

Sometimes it is not too difficult to remove a broken E-Z-Out if you can get any hold on it all with Vice-Grips. The E-Z-Out has very shallow threads and it's grip into the underlying metal is often not good. You can also sometimes loosen the broken E-Z-Out with a punch beforehand. Just be sure to turn it clockwise.

Tom
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#8

Thanks Tom...will attack again tomorrow.
Sedge
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#9

<!--quoteo(post=68163:date=Mar 7 2009, 11:07 AM:name=unknown4u)-->QUOTE (unknown4u @ Mar 7 2009, 11:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->read the following topic. for resetting the airbaglight and other related information about it
http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=3684

It can be a lot cheaper than 500 dollar.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I have read this before and all I could gleen from the thread was to cut the wire. I would have assumed that cutting the wire would also set the airbag light off as the DME would see no continuity in that cct?
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#10

no wires should be cut to remove airbags - a resistor is installed to fool the system
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#11

NO cutting of the wires.
You have tot take time to read the complete document. As Flash said resistors are necessary to fool the system and let the dashboard work correctly.
The only cutting isue in the document is cutting the led from the interface...........
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#12

Don't panic! I had this snippet in my head -

"The last couple of months I did have a triggerd airbagwarninglight. It was triggerd by a stupid mistake from me. After that I read almost every topic of it on the web..
Every time there was a solution of cutting the wires at the control unit from the airbag. And that, for me, was a cheap solution!."

I thought this was the cheap solution being eluded to.
Basically I have to get out my wirewrap tool after 20 years and make a board from the schematic, too bad this isn't available any more. I still have my airbag installed so I gather the resistor method is to fool the system in case you want a 993 or Momo wheel without the airbag.

Enough hijacking.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
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#13

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Glad to see that you can build a circuitboard. This because after instalation of the resistore you have to reset the software of the airbagcontrolcenter...

good luck.
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#14

I am also lazy sometimes so I have a good friend who manufactures/designs cct boards for a living so I am having him assess the cost of making the board in qty. If I can get the previous maker to allow me to use his design I may make up a kit. I can't see anyone who has a 968 not having this tool at hand.
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#15

Dave If you need a design of the circuit board do no hesitate to give me a pm. Because I do have the drawings and necessary list of used parts.
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#16

I sent the cct pdf to my friend already unless you have a better schematic? He has all the routing and schematic capture software/flow ovens yada yada so just waiting to hear what a bulk run might cost. He also has pick/place machines but that's getting carried away for such a small project [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]
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#17

I know that there are others that interested in the interface. Due to the fact that I changed from job I never got the time anymore to make a small production of it. I'm interested in one board. So let me know.
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#18

Sooo.....interesting and informative discussion on the circut. Thanks! But, back to the more mudance issue: I finally got the airbag unit retaining bolt out (after breaking off an E-Z Out in it) by grinding the head of the bolt off (used a burr and hydraulic drill motor). A bit messy and chewed up a little of the plastic steering column cover, but was finally able to get another, much larger E-Z Out in it and backed the bolt out. Whew! Now, on to the ignition switch replacement (orignal objective).
Sedge
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#19

airbag stuf is always interesting. Hate to have red lights on the dash!
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#20

<!--quoteo(post=68582:date=Mar 14 2009, 02:02 PM:name=Sedge)-->QUOTE (Sedge @ Mar 14 2009, 02:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Sooo.....interesting and informative discussion on the circut. Thanks! But, back to the more mudance issue: I finally got the airbag unit retaining bolt out (after breaking off an E-Z Out in it) by grinding the head of the bolt off (used a burr and hydraulic drill motor). A bit messy and chewed up a little of the plastic steering column cover, but was finally able to get another, much larger E-Z Out in it and backed the bolt out. Whew! Now, on to the ignition switch replacement (orignal objective).
Sedge<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Sorry for the unintended hijack. Will start a new thread if I carry on with this project. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
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