[Anchorman]

Interestingly, with new motor mounts, my KLA brace (when installed correctly) has paper-thin clearance to the vanity cover. It rubs during driving, but nothing serious.

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[flash]

pretty common actually - one of the reasons i want to try this fix

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[mitch968]

My motor mounts were replaced with OEM ones only about 10k miles ago. I would think newer mounts would provide less clearance than old ones. Anchor, did you replace the mounts after you installed the brace and if so did you notice a difference in clearance?



Seems like these adjustable mounts from Lindsey would do the trick and might be a better solution than adjusting the crossmember, but that's a lot of extra expense and work to make a $150 bar fit right...

http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchant2/mer...de=944ENGMOUNTS



Another thought....is it possible my engine isn't too high, but my strut towers are a smidge too low? If so, maybe I could slightly shim the bar mounts to create clearance, though I would lose some on the top side. Obviously, I'd have to be very careful about the potential for hood contact. Where is the load being distributed on the towers? Is it all on the four bolts or is it dependent on the slight lip in the metal around the strut mounts?



Flash, exactly how much contact is your bar making? Mine is VERY snug up against the rail cover and I would be concerned with how much harder it would press when the engine rocks slightly under load. I didn't even try driving it with the bar, so I don't know if it would settle and create more clearance. I don't think I could squeeze anything under the bar without pulling up on it and potentially bending it. What size o-rings are you using and did you just roll them onto the bar?



The best temporary solution, would be to lose the vanity cover entirely, but that's not too pretty.

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[flash]

i think jim did mean to say he has less clearance with the new mounts



those mounts look cool - i'll have to see what the minimum height is



yes, it is distributed to all four corners - be very careful about shimming up - there is VERY little hood clearance, and you really won't be happy with the result if you goof - if you do shim it, you could adjust the rear of the hood up though, so you could drive the car, until we figure this out



mine doesn't make contact sitting still - it does while driving though - nice big groove in the vanity cover



yes, i would just roll on the o-rings - get the thinnest ones you can find that wil go on - i'd use at least 4



i'll be under the car in a couple of hours and see what i can see

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[mitch968]

Update....spoke to KLA tech support yesterday. They suggested that the vast majority of bar/engine clearance issues are caused by improperly installed motor mounts. More specifically, they said that the older mounts used to have a shim or washer between the mounts and engine and that many times the shim is incorrectly used with newer style mounts, which raises the engine slightly higher than spec. I think they said something like 5 or 8mm. By removing the shim, proper clearance should be attained.



Has anyone heard of this issue or seen these shims used before? I've tried to eyeball at least the top of the driver's side mount, but can't really tell if there's a washer in there or not. If there is, I believe I would just have to slightly jack the engine to unload the mounts, remove the top bolts, slide out the shims and reinstall the bolts. Questions....is is really ok to jack the engine using a large block to distribute load? Any trick to r&r the bolts or is it easy access? What is the proper torque for those bolts?



I'll try to get some time to inspect further tomorrow. Seems like a bit of a pain in the ass, just to fit a $150 bar.



Thanks,

Mitch

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[mitch968]

Can't see any shim on the motor mount....though didn't really remove anything to get a much better look. I can't imagine the mechanic who replaced them did anything out of spec, since he's a p-car specialist and is very familiar with the 968.



I decided to reinstall the bar anyway and give it another go. I first pushed the vanity cover as far down as it would go. I still have contact at rest, but I put a few felt pads under the bar temporarily just so I could go for a quick test drive without scuffing up everything.



Initial impressions....it seems like there's a bit more road feel up front, but it might just be psychological at this point. Impacts seem to be felt a bit more. Only pushed it through a few S curves, but it seems to feel ok. After putting it through some typical driving and hood closings, I'm happy to report that luckily there are no hood nipples.



I'm still not certain I'm going to keep it though, as the fitment is not wonderful and the engine contact is bothersome. I could just remove the vanity cover, but if I'm going to go that route, I could probably just make a more substantial bar fit, such as the Brey Krause or Racing Dynamics offerings for the 944. I really wish the Dynatech bar was still available since it would seem it solves the engine clearance issue perfectly with a flattened section and a slight curve. Looks pretty nice too.



Eric Sandoval, wasn't that an RD bar on your 968? Were there any fitment issues beyond cutting or removing the vanity cover? How well did it function?



General question about preloading....which direction should the towers be loaded....spread apart or pulled together?

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[flash]

i feel your frustration



the vanity cover gains it most clearance from the bar when you push it all the way to the left side of the car (driver side)



stand by before changing bars - i'm working on that right now - should have response on fitment and cost this week



preloading is together

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[mitch968]

Yeah, I pushed it all the way to the driver's side already. What exactly are you working on that I should hold onto the KLA bar? A modification to the vanity cover? Different (higher) end pieces for the same bar? A different bar altogether?

preloading is together

That's what I would have thought, but I saw the opposite recommended for a Brey-Krause brace so I was a bit unsure....

http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index.php?p...ex_v2&id=48&c=4

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[flash]

a different bar altogether - too many people have complained about this, and i myself have a wiped out vanity cover as a result - i've been poking around, and i think i may have the solution - i'll know later this week

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[flash]

just an bit for clarity, the kla unit works great, and it's the minority with clearnace issues (unfortunately i'm one of them), and they have been very "stand up" about returns and such



i didn't want anybody to get confused and think i was really complaining about the kla unit - i still like it, and it's still in my car - if it weren't for my wanting to do the letters on the vanity cover, i probably wouldn't change

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[ether_joe]

[quote name='Lemming' date='Jun 28 2005, 12:37 PM']I now longer feel alone!  I did this when replacing the HCV recently.

[right][post="6481"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I have a nice shiner on my hood also due to power steering misplacement when I replaced my HCV also.



Cracked the paint on mine though <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



we're all in esteemed company I think

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[mitch968]

Sean, yes I have that same bump up on my hood from the PS reservoir. It's been there since the previous owner....I suppose I'll get it removed one of these days.



Flash, any update? I've been driving around with the bar out for now and am getting to the point where I'm just going to return it. If I decide to modify or run without the rail cover, then I could just get a more substantial bar such as a brey-krause or racing dynamics. Does anyone here have one of those and know about fitment issues?

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[flash]

i think i'd remove the vanity cover for now - you can always ebay the bar later, since the problem is not on all cars



i am all but certain that both of the units you mention require the vanity cover be removed



i am still working with the manufacturer to get the right parts together - i'm closer, but it has been hard to nail them down - the volume just isn't there to prioritize it for them



sorry i don't have better news

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[Dinky]

[quote name='flash' post='24078' date='Jul 15 2006, 05:08 AM']i think i'd remove the vanity cover for now - you can always ebay the bar later, since the problem is not on all cars



i am all but certain that both of the units you mention require the vanity cover be removed



i am still working with the manufacturer to get the right parts together - i'm closer, but it has been hard to nail them down - the volume just isn't there to prioritize it for them



sorry i don't have better news[/quote]





Bob,

Any news? I'm about to order a KLA strut brace for my CS here in OZ and want to know if you've finalised a better (read less rubbing/contact) solution?



Cheers,



Simon

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[cosimo]

I have the KLA strut brace and when I first installed it I put it in "backwards" resulting in 2 dimples in the hood. As a result KLA revised it's directions emphazing the "correct" position of the brace. KLA was great about paying for the dent removal however I still have spider webs. In addition, when I had the power steering unit replaced and the mechanic installed it so that it also dimpled the hood with more spider webs. UGH! Never had a problem with rubbing the vanity cover and have had the motor mounts replaced. So it appears the I need the hood repainted, just afraid it won't match the rest of the car and a mismatched hood would certainly stand out. What to do? What to do?

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[flash]

i got stalled on the strut brace, due to the move - have now completed move and am back into some of the projects



moreover, the original plan bumped into an issue on one of the components - have to work that out - no idea now what the timeline is - sorry i don't have better news on that one - i'd like to get one on my car too, and get a new vanity cover in there

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[John]

Boy, I wish I had read this topic a while ago. I've had a KLA brace for about 4 years now, with no problem. The bar was in wrong of course, on the front of the mounts, cause there was no interference with the vanity cover that way. So I'm in the Tech line at a DE last weekend, and watch stupefied as the under-hood inspection guy drops my hood from waist height. Result is one dimple. I've worked Tech and, among the many things we are always told, one is to lower all lids gently and leave the latching to the driver. I can't believe it: this was a Porsche owner (must be of a 911). Couldn't find him later to ask what he was thinking, probably a good thing. Anyway, thanks to the forum, I now know to look for a paintless dent repair guy. ... John

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[flash]

bummer - been there paid for that - i feel your pain

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[benspeeder]

<!--quoteo(post=76438:date=Jul 30 2009, 11:01 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 30 2009, 11:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->bummer - been there paid for that - i feel your pain<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

My black 968 came with the dimple also...

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