[DaveN]

Not sure where to post this so here it lies.

Searched the forum for advice on preping my car for 6 months of winter but didn't find anything.

I am mainly concerned with turning over the engine in the spring after having no oil in the cylinders for so long. Any good storage procedures besides the common sense ones?

I have the battery disconnnected and on trickle, tires are off the car as it's on jack stands, boot and bonnet are open to keep air circulating and their shock absorbers at rest. No, I didn't fill the tank as gas was about 1.45/L (~6.00) gal when it came off the road and it have killed me spend 100.00 only to park it. I think there is a gas conditioner you can add for storage?

TIA

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[bob blackwell]

Yes, Dave, there is a product called Stabil that is used to add to the gasoline when an engine is stored for a while. This is available locally in the auto parts stores. If you fill the tank as full as you can there will be less chance of water collection and rust developing in the tank. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[biotechee]

Rust shouldn't really develop in the gas tank should it? I thought the tank was a polymer... I believe the big issue with not filling up the tank is it leaves more air volume in the tank. And the more air volume you have in the tank, the more water vapor that can condense from the air and get into the gas. Even though Winter air has typically less water vapor (less humidity) than Summer air, it still has some.



I typically "store" mine for the Winter as well, but I do not put it on jack stands as I try to start it once a week to circulate fluids. Also, I move the car back and forth to help prevent flat spotting on the tires. As a matter of fact, I am due this weekend to start it up and move it a few inches. If it's not raining out, out of the garage we'll go.

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[Anchorman]

"Winter storage"? WHY? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> As long as there's no ice or snow on the ground, these cars are happy to be driven in the cold. That's why they have such great heaters. (In fact, even snow hasn't stopped me with Blizzaks all around - but admittedly I'd still rather not drive the 968 in the snow.)

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[flash]

if you are going to store the car like that and not start it during a period of more than 6 weeks do the following:



store with tank fairly full, but leave a couple of gallons of room for high octane fuel (unleaded) just before you go to start it - gas loses octane over time



do not store with parking brake engaged



once a month or so, rotate the brake rotors - remove any rust with a quick scuff of 400 sandpaper



then, when you go to start it:

remove the spark plugs before starting

remove the coil wire from the coil before starting

turn engine over with no plugs or coil wire for a few seconds (until you see oil pressure)

replace plugs and wire

start car

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[rhudeboye]

[quote name='flash' post='63777' date='Dec 4 2008, 07:54 AM']if you are going to store the car like that and not start it during a period of more than 6 weeks do the following:



store with tank fairly full, but leave a couple of gallons of room for high octane fuel (unleaded) just before you go to start it - gas loses octane over time



do not store with parking brake engaged



once a month or so, rotate the brake rotors - remove any rust with a quick scuff of 400 sandpaper



then, when you go to start it:

remove the spark plugs before starting

remove the coil wire from the coil before starting

turn engine over with no plugs or coil wire for a few seconds (until you see oil pressure)

replace plugs and wire

start car[/quote]



This thread is really educational. Makes for a good sticky under the existing title.



"do not store with parking brake engaged" ? For fear of it locking up?

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[flash]

lol - if only i didn't know this one so well - i am just about to have to do this AGAIN - the car has been sitting since august



as the brake is in a relatively enclosed area, but not sealed, yes, it is subject to corrosion that can cause the brake shoe to bind up and the retaining pin to snap when you move the car

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[Ryan]

Consider putting in one of those sticky mouse traps as well. I have had problems with mice visiting as a winter home. They started eating my plug wires of all things. Damn Porsche for making them so delicious.

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[Anchorman]

I'm telling you guys - and I'm not kidding - DRIVE THE CAR!!! It gets cold in Germany, so it's not like these are warm weather cars. If it's dry - and there's lots of winter time that's dry - why not DRIVE!?!?

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[Duckman]

I'm with Anchorman on this one. I realize I don't have the cold weather problems in North Carolina that many of you have but I drove my car all year when I lived in Delaware without any difficulty. As suggested, it's not fun to drive on snow or ice but, absent that, I didn't even change my tires.



However, looking back at Dave's opening statement about getting ready for six months of winter made me remember why I live in NC, rather than BC.

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[flash]

but if i drive it, where will i stack up the laundry?

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[rhudeboye]

[quote name='Anchorman' post='63784' date='Dec 4 2008, 08:59 AM']I'm telling you guys - and I'm not kidding - DRIVE THE CAR!!! It gets cold in Germany, so it's not like these are warm weather cars. If it's dry - and there's lots of winter time that's dry - why not DRIVE!?!?[/quote]



+2



As of late my car has been sitting for about 2 weeks at a time. I'm both watching the miles on her as well as keeping it out of the wet. But It will sit no longer then that without me taking it out around the neighborhood to the gym or some other location as it is a great means of preventive maintenance.

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[94SilverCab]

I agree with those who say you should drive.



My 3,000 mile per year plan:



1,000 from Thanksgiving to Easter

1,000 from Easter to July 4th

1,000 from July 4th to Thanksgiving.



Roughly equivalent time periods. The car never sits more than 3 weeks (even in Winter we have clear, dry days)



3,000/Year also makes me feels better about those 5 year/ 15,000 miles replacement parts.



Regards,



Jay

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[flash]

so 500 miles a year is no good? nuts - i guess i'll have to start driving the danged thing - i hate that



ducking for cover now

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[DaveN]

[quote name='bob blackwell' post='63771' date='Dec 3 2008, 07:07 PM']Yes, Dave, there is a product called Stabil that is used to add to the gasoline when an engine is stored for a while. This is available locally in the auto parts stores. If you fill the tank as full as you can there will be less chance of water collection and rust developing in the tank. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.[/quote]





Tks. Car is in the garage though so the moisture content in the air is pretty nil.



[quote name='biotechee' post='63774' date='Dec 4 2008, 04:09 AM']Rust shouldn't really develop in the gas tank should it? I thought the tank was a polymer... I believe the big issue with not filling up the tank is it leaves more air volume in the tank. And the more air volume you have in the tank, the more water vapor that can condense from the air and get into the gas. Even though Winter air has typically less water vapor (less humidity) than Summer air, it still has some.



I typically "store" mine for the Winter as well, but I do not put it on jack stands as I try to start it once a week to circulate fluids. Also, I move the car back and forth to help prevent flat spotting on the tires. As a matter of fact, I am due this weekend to start it up and move it a few inches. If it's not raining out, out of the garage we'll go.[/quote]



Mine is on jack stands because I'm cleaning the wheel wells, polishing up the rotor hubs and maybe painting the calipers this winter. I also filled all the road rash that the PO inflicted on the rims and will have them re-painted.

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[DaveN]

[quote name='flash' post='63777' date='Dec 4 2008, 05:54 AM']if you are going to store the car like that and not start it during a period of more than 6 weeks do the following:



store with tank fairly full, but leave a couple of gallons of room for high octane fuel (unleaded) just before you go to start it - gas loses octane over time



do not store with parking brake engaged



once a month or so, rotate the brake rotors - remove any rust with a quick scuff of 400 sandpaper



then, when you go to start it:

remove the spark plugs before starting

remove the coil wire from the coil before starting

turn engine over with no plugs or coil wire for a few seconds (until you see oil pressure)

replace plugs and wire

start car[/quote]



Ahead of you on the parking brake. I never leave it on. I owned a new TR7 once and learned that lesson the hard way trying to rock the car to crack the rusty parking brake off.

Rotors/hubs should be good as I have just sanded everything with 400 and put a coat of this wonderfull spray lube that doesn't run like WD40 on the hubs. Should be no rust whatsoever in my garage.

Turning the car over was my main concern; getting the walls all oiled up before it fires up. Have to get get a torque wrench if I pull the plugs. I have been borrowing the neighbours but now that I'm messing with too much stuff it's about time I bought my own <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



[quote name='Anchorman' post='63784' date='Dec 4 2008, 07:59 AM']I'm telling you guys - and I'm not kidding - DRIVE THE CAR!!! It gets cold in Germany, so it's not like these are warm weather cars. If it's dry - and there's lots of winter time that's dry - why not DRIVE!?!?[/quote]





Insurance. I already have 3 vehicles on the road including my 944-S2. When I sell the S2 I may consider it but it's costly with collision on the 968 for a whole year.

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[rxter]

Especially no excuse not to drive in SoCal Bob. Geez. Only excuse that I have is I'm too cheap to get the brakes done so there she sits. I did a full detail last week so she's real purty in the garage. I am releasing the parking brake as soon as I get home tonight.

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[flash]

so, now you're all set to bring her up for tomorrow

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[caffine]

<!--quoteo(post=63777:date=Dec 4 2008, 08:54 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Dec 4 2008, 08:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->if you are going to store the car like that and not start it during a period of more than 6 weeks do the following:

store with tank fairly full, but leave a couple of gallons of room for high octane fuel (unleaded) just before you go to start it - gas loses octane over time

do not store with parking brake engaged

once a month or so, rotate the brake rotors - remove any rust with a quick scuff of 400 sandpaper

then, when you go to start it:
remove the spark plugs before starting
remove the coil wire from the coil before starting
turn engine over with no plugs or coil wire for a few seconds (until you see oil pressure)
replace plugs and wire
start car<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Now I see these suggestions. Ugh. Car in storage since December - ( snow & ice finally melted) and temps no longer in single digits to negative double digits.
Car stored with 1/4 tank & small amount of Stabil added to tank first week of storage. Battery left on bmw smart charger.
With almost 70 weather today - tried starting. Nothing doing. Cranked great. Tried 3x over 1 minute. No smell of gasoline at all - though I would have expected it.
First car I've ever not used during a winter. Used to the -20 to -30 degree winters killing batteries here but not the warmer weather.
Ordered one of those DME relays - don't have spare.
Picked up 4 new spark plugs. In case the current one's are fouled - as I was starting it once a week during the winter - but upon getting to -30 temps it refused to start
but then so did my other two cars - one spark plugs fouled & one dead battery. Quit attempting to start it since January. Ahh - Iowa winters.
Suggestions? Would adding new fuel help? Haven't starting replacing anything as of yet.

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[flash]

pop the distributor cap off - wipe it out thoroughly - could be condensation there

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