[968rz]

1. Disconnect battery

2. Set engine at TDC (top dead center)

3. Remove front plastic vanity cover (if you have one), air box, MAF, and radiator cap

4. Remove underbody shield

5. Un-bolt starter from bell housing and install fly wheel lock (no need to remove wires; but don’t let the unit hang on the them)

6. Loosen adjusters for PS and ALT (they have 2 lock nuts on either side, 1 is left handed and don’t forget to loosen the bolt that hold the hiem joints and the ends), remove belts

7. Drain coolant (plug is on drivers side-word is they break easy so careful)

(Tip- use some cardboard to route the coolant away from the core support into the drain pan)

8. Remove distributor cap and rotor

9. Remove from engine side the upper and lower hoses and the one to the over flow tank

10. Remove t-belt inspection cover

11. Remove metal cam pulley cover that the dist cap mounts to

12. Remove crank pulley

13. Loosen balance shaft tension roller and remove belt

14. Remove T-belt tensioner and belt (slowly compress this in a vise, I found a small Allen wrench held it nice once the holes lined up)

15. Remove T-belt tensioner pivot plate (c-clip on lower stud is a pita with out the correct pliers but it is doable)

16. Remove plastic shield bolted to engine (you can get the pump out with this in place but will most likely crack it so remove it)

17. Remove water pump (careful, the bolts may be seized into the engine so take your time here. Tapping on the head on the bolts with a hammer may help this)

18. On the bench, remove the t-stat retaining clip and stat (now is the best time to install a new one in the new pump as it’s a pita to get at when together)

19. Now my favorite Haynes manual quote “Install in reverse ”



Follow the fill procedure in the manual (and search the forum as this has been discussed many times)



Tools needed:

1/4, 3/8, 1/2 Sockets and wrenches from 10mm to 24mm (a 10mm 1/4 flex socket is useful)

1/4, 3/8, 1/2 Ratchets and extensions from 3” to 5”

Small hammer (maybe)

Breaker bar (for the crank bolt)

Assorted Allen wrenches (metric)

Vise, needle nose and regular pliers

Assorted flat blade screw drivers (a stubby worked nice for the drain plug)

Porsche tension tool (unless you are very experienced, I don’t suggest trying it with out this)

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[Harvey]

Thanks, Rick.



Harvey

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[968rz]

No problem, hope it helps.

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[huskydog]

Thought I better reply too, since we communicated via PM on this topic. I agree thanks for the post also, it was very helpful to me too. We too everything off and just before we started on the water pump, I decided to verify what the mechanic said. So we put a coolant pressure tester in and checked the system. When we pumped up the pressure, it was two hoses that had the leak, not the water pump. Fixed the hoses and no problem since.

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[968rz]

Cool Dog!

Lot of work for a cheap fix - no?

Did you have the pump already, if so hang onto it at some point you WILL need it, if not you just saved about $250 to 500 (for now <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> ). <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Cloud9...68]

I'm planning to replace my belts sometime in the next couple of months, and will also do the water pump/thermostat at the same time. I noticed Paragon sells both a new and a remanufactured pump, the latter being about half the price of a new one. My car isn't a daily driver, so I only put a total of about 4,000 miles or so a year on it, and as a result will do the belts/pump more on a time interval as opposed to mileage. I plan to do them every five years.



Given this background, is there any compelling reason to buy a new pump vs a remanufactured one? I'm a little short on cash, thanks to under-estimating the tax implications of my wife going back to work (part time teaching, so not a lot of cash infusion into the household budget), and would like to go with the remanufactured one if the concensus is that it's a reasonable thing to do. Thanks.

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[PorscheDude]

I have heard both good and bad about a remanufactured water pumps. From what I have read Zims may be the best for a reman pump.



IMHO with the time and labor involved I would go with new.

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[Chris Vais]

My water pump failed about a year and half ago. My mechanic replaced it with a rebuilt pump, with my concurrance and it began leaking almost immediately. He replaced it with another rebuilt pump from the same supplier and it leaked so bad that I had to drive the car around with a gallon of water in the back to keep adding water. The third time we installed a new pump and there have been no problems. Needless to say the mechanic was not happy about having to do the job three times when he was only paid for the one job. He was going to see if he could recover some of extra labor from the supplier. Both pumps leaked around the pully shaft.



I was told to expect a small amount of leakage around the shaft until the pump had some hours on it, but my mechanic and I agreed that the leakage we were experiencing was excessive and it never stopped.



My mechanic was probably able to recover some of his labor, but I doudt that you or I had we done the job ourselves would have the same leverage with the supplier. If it fails again, I wouldn't hesitate to go with a new on despite the extra cost.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Chris Vais' post='45984' date='Jan 18 2008, 07:22 PM']If it fails again, I wouldn't hesitate to go with a new on despite the extra cost.[/quote]

Ugh... Sorry to hear about your experience. Crap, I was hoping a reman pump would be fine. It's such a simple device, with so few moving parts. Just bad timing financially for me. OK, thanks for the inputs.

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