05-20-2007, 03:17 PM
Well, the new Sachs Clutch, Pressure Plate and DM Flywheel are all in (along with the other related required parts to do the job right!)
So it was only logical that all of the Hydraulics should be refreshed as well; no sense in doing the big "C" if the clutch hose bursts on turn 3 at Gingerman in a DE event! Or the Slave Cylinder starts peeing on the Dan Ryan going thru Chicago at rush hour!!! Well, you get the idea!
So, I strip out all of the old stuff, and start dropping in the new goodies (had to pull the Driver's Seat cause I'm too fat to squeeze in there and hook up the Master Cylinder Clevis otherwise!)
Of course, I put in the Master Cylinder, got it all hooked up, and then started to connect the Hose...Let me offer some advice... if you are going to do this job, connect (albeit loosely) the Hose to the front of the Master Cylinder BEFORE you put the Master Cylinder back in place!!! I spent no less than 45 minutes futzing with the fitting, trying to get it to line up with, and screw into the front of the Master Cylinder!!! WHEW!
So, if you're STUPID, like me, here's a couple of tips on how to do this the HARD way. Once you get the new hose fitting into position (sort of), use a 10mm (yes, I said TEN!) long open end wrench, positioned on the tubing and against the face of the Connector, to guide it into the hole at the front of the Master Cylinder, and to keep a gentle pressure on the Connector while you are attempting to turn it in with the required 12MM open end wrench, which is practically impossible to do because of the angle the tubing enters the mouth of the Master Cylinder. The Connector has to be EXACTLY straight going into the Master Cylinder, or you won't be able to catch a thread, or worse yet, you may cross thread the Connector!~!!
Once you are sure you have it "Square" with the face of the Master Cylinder, and are holding it ever so gently in position with the 10mm wrench, try using a long Punch with a small flat face, to begin turning the flats of the Connector into place. Just use the tip of the Punch to press and turn each flat, until you feel the threads begin to bite. Then, go ahead and gently use your 12mm open end wrench to cinch things up... and it WILL take you a while, as you will only be able to turn one half of a flat at a time!!! Patience here, plus a few well chosen curses, work well. I know some of you have probably purchased the "New" Clutch Hose, and are facing this dilemma as we speak! Slowly, slowly! Have Fun!
Underneath, I had good luck using a 19mm Tubing wrench (Crows Foot?) to hold the Hose fitting, while I connected up the Hard Line by hand, and then, again carefully tightened the Connector with the 12mm open end.
Treat the Hard Line very nicely, as spares must be either made locally or ordered from Germany!
Now to fill the Motive Power Bleeder and go at it! Hopefully, I won't have to do the Push, Hold, Release thing, as the better half doesn't take instructions well, and would probably kick a jack stand over while I was under the car!!! ;>((
Now, on to fitting the M030 Bars and new Bushings!!! Can't wait!
So it was only logical that all of the Hydraulics should be refreshed as well; no sense in doing the big "C" if the clutch hose bursts on turn 3 at Gingerman in a DE event! Or the Slave Cylinder starts peeing on the Dan Ryan going thru Chicago at rush hour!!! Well, you get the idea!
So, I strip out all of the old stuff, and start dropping in the new goodies (had to pull the Driver's Seat cause I'm too fat to squeeze in there and hook up the Master Cylinder Clevis otherwise!)
Of course, I put in the Master Cylinder, got it all hooked up, and then started to connect the Hose...Let me offer some advice... if you are going to do this job, connect (albeit loosely) the Hose to the front of the Master Cylinder BEFORE you put the Master Cylinder back in place!!! I spent no less than 45 minutes futzing with the fitting, trying to get it to line up with, and screw into the front of the Master Cylinder!!! WHEW!
So, if you're STUPID, like me, here's a couple of tips on how to do this the HARD way. Once you get the new hose fitting into position (sort of), use a 10mm (yes, I said TEN!) long open end wrench, positioned on the tubing and against the face of the Connector, to guide it into the hole at the front of the Master Cylinder, and to keep a gentle pressure on the Connector while you are attempting to turn it in with the required 12MM open end wrench, which is practically impossible to do because of the angle the tubing enters the mouth of the Master Cylinder. The Connector has to be EXACTLY straight going into the Master Cylinder, or you won't be able to catch a thread, or worse yet, you may cross thread the Connector!~!!
Once you are sure you have it "Square" with the face of the Master Cylinder, and are holding it ever so gently in position with the 10mm wrench, try using a long Punch with a small flat face, to begin turning the flats of the Connector into place. Just use the tip of the Punch to press and turn each flat, until you feel the threads begin to bite. Then, go ahead and gently use your 12mm open end wrench to cinch things up... and it WILL take you a while, as you will only be able to turn one half of a flat at a time!!! Patience here, plus a few well chosen curses, work well. I know some of you have probably purchased the "New" Clutch Hose, and are facing this dilemma as we speak! Slowly, slowly! Have Fun!
Underneath, I had good luck using a 19mm Tubing wrench (Crows Foot?) to hold the Hose fitting, while I connected up the Hard Line by hand, and then, again carefully tightened the Connector with the 12mm open end.
Treat the Hard Line very nicely, as spares must be either made locally or ordered from Germany!
Now to fill the Motive Power Bleeder and go at it! Hopefully, I won't have to do the Push, Hold, Release thing, as the better half doesn't take instructions well, and would probably kick a jack stand over while I was under the car!!! ;>((
Now, on to fitting the M030 Bars and new Bushings!!! Can't wait!

