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Variocam soleniod replacement
#1

Hey Friends,



I am set to replace a variocam soleniod that functions properly, but is leaking oil out the top and onto the cam cover. I have a replacement soleniod, and now the questions:



1. I need to remove the cam cover, right? Can I cheat and not disconnect the fuel lines?

2. What special steps are required, if any, such as pressurizing the new soleniod, etc?

3. I am not retiming the cams - new chain and pads installed about 5k miles ago. Is there anything else? How is it sealed when bolted to the head?



Thanks for responding. Happy New Year!



Scott
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#2

Are you sure the solenoid is bad? If you are changing the solenoid O ring and solenoid gasket on top of the valve cover it is not required to remove the cam cover. If you remove the cam cover I always remove the fuel lines. It just takes a few seconds.
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#3

Yah - I've got oil inside the soleniod - when I unclip it, the connector has oil inside where the contacts are. I have replaced the gaskets and o-rings, but that's not it, unfortunately.
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#4

+1 on removing the fuel lines, takes a few seconds and they are out of the way. If you remove the cam cover be prepared to possibly change the plug seals and refurbish the cam cover gasket so you don't suffer with those common leaks. Like most people who responf to threads - "Ask me how I know" <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#5

Dave/Kwikt:



Thanks for the tips - I am going to hold off on replacing the solenoid until I have the plug seals and valve cover gasket. Much appreciated!



Still hoping to hear from someone who knows about removal and install of a new solenoid.



Scott
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#6

Scott, I did replace mine a few years ago. It really is a very simple job once you remove the valve cover. Unbolt remove and install. I do believe there is a seal under the solenoid if memory serves me right. Check a parts manual. Autoatlanta.com has an excellent parts diagram that I use often.
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#7

Kwikt,

Thanks very much. I'll check the catalog and place an order. The last thing I (or anyone) want is to get it all apart, pull the solenoid, destroy the existing seal, and not have a fresh one to throw in there. I'd have to ride my bike to get around... Now that I think of it, it's not a bad idea, given the ridiculous diet I've had during the holidays..



Cheers!



-Scott
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#8

you really need to remove the fuel lines to get the cam cover reinstalled - while you can remove it without disconnecting them, it is a real pain to get the cover back on with the gasket in place - make sure the engine has been sitting for at least an hour or there will be fuel pressure in there - even then, be prepared for some pressure release



be extremely careful cracking loose the cam cover bolts - they like to snap - be prepared to have to order new ones



there is a seal and a gasket below the solenoid - i also used a bit of blue RTV on the gasket to ensure no leaks



you can use a 12V test light to see if the solenoid is working



be sure to use a good sealant in the corners of the cam cover gasket between it and the head - watch the Hall Sender wire carefully as you reinstall the cover - it likes to get caught under it and get crimped
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#9

+1 on the cam cover gasket. I used an even finger smear of RTV high heat Copper on both sided of the gasket. You put it in place and finger tighten the bolts, wait 1 hour for the RTV to set up and then torque to only 5 lbs (I believe) the cover bolts otherwise "snappo!"
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#10

Actually the torque on the cam cover fasteners is 7 ft. lbs., but you still need your itty bitty torque wrench <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#11

yup - unless you have a wrench that is in inch pounds, do NOT use a "click type" wrench on these either, and only a "needle type" - they are not accurate enough, and the bolts tend to be very fragile
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#12

All good stuff - very helpful - Thanks very, very much! I am going to order the needed seals and gaskets before I take it all apart, on the assumption that I will replace everything. I'll let you all know the result when completed.



Cheers!



-Scott
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#13

Tks Lear - I had 5 or 8 stuck in my head but couldn't remember which one was closest.
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